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Neuhaus Metalworks Hummingbird

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#861 ·
I have mine setup up a bit racey. I am 5' 9" on an M+, I run a 60mm stem, and have the sliders set to 430mm. I found the front end lifted too much in their pushed forward position at 420 when I was on steep technical climbs. That is the nice thing about sliders.
 
Discussion starter · #862 ·
#869 · (Edited)
supersinge said:
Yikes! I was literally just looking at buying that fork, thanks for the heads up. If you don’t mind me asking (as someone who currently does weigh 260), how far off is your weight?
Click to expand...
I’m around 210 riding weight, for which fox recommends a reasonable 95 psi. The fork actually feels good at that pressure but resulting sag % is over 30%. To get to 24% I had to bring it close to the stated 120 psi limit at 118 psi, which is their recommended pressure for 260 lb rider. Getting to 20%, their recommendation for a “plush” fork, would require going way over 120 and result in an unrideable jackhammer. No idea why. I think i may just ignore the sag as the fork was way too stiff for me at 118 anyway, and with 1 token I had 3cm of travel left after my first test ride.
 
#870 ·
supersinge said:
Yikes! I was literally just looking at buying that fork, thanks for the heads up. If you don’t mind me asking (as someone who currently does weigh 260), how far off is your weight?
Click to expand...
Okay, I think I have maybe a clue here. The “stock” volume spacer count for a 120 36SL is supposed to be 4. Since the fork was originally a 140, it only has one spacer in it. I suspect the air volume in the chamber is too large for the travel amount.
 
#871 ·
Dabs For Everyone said:
Okay, I think I have maybe a clue here. The “stock” volume spacer count for a 120 36SL is supposed to be 4. Since the fork was originally a 140, it only has one spacer in it. I suspect the air volume in the chamber is too large for the travel amount.
Click to expand...
Posted about this on the suspension forum but this one is on me - going up to the recommended starting point of 4 tokens had a big impact and I can hit 20% sag at 104 psi. I put two more in just for good measure to start tuning the fork.
 
#873 · (Edited)
Deepshax said:
Can anyone point my in a good direction on how to properly set-up the PMW sliding drop-outs?
Click to expand...
Here's the article on the PMW website: Adjustable Dropouts Information | Paragon Machine Works

Torque Specs
  • 24 to 26 N-m
  • 2.4 to 2.6 Kg-m
  • 17 - 19 foot/pounds

Did the frame come with bolts that take a 5mm hex or 6mm? IME, the 5mm button head screws suck, and I immediately replaced mine with 6mm socket head screws from a hardware store. the PMW sliders work best with a 18mm screw, but hardware stores tend to sell them in 16mm or 20mm. 16 is really too short, so I use 20mm screws with washers to add a little space. if you can trim down the bolts or source some quality 18mm screws (PMW sells them separately, or course, but they're a bit spendy for simple screws).
 
#875 ·
mack_turtle said:
Here's the article on the PMW website: Adjustable Dropouts Information | Paragon Machine Works

Torque Specs
  • 24 to 26 N-m
  • 2.4 to 2.6 Kg-m
  • 17 - 19 foot/pounds

Did the frame come with bolts that take a 5mm hex or 6mm? IME, the 5mm button head screws suck, and I immediately replaced mine with 6mm socket head screws from a hardware store. the PMW sliders work best with a 18mm screw, but hardware stores tend to sell them in 16mm or 20mm. 16 is really too short, so I use 20mm screws with washers to add a little space. if you can trim down the bolts or source some quality 18mm screws (PMW sells them separately, or course, but they're a bit spendy for simple screws).
Click to expand...
I think I have the 6mm hex screws (will double check when I get home later). What was your experience with the 5mm hex screws? Do I leave the two bolts on the slider completely loose when tensioning via the longer bolt (pointing towards the BB)? ....do i have them slightly tensioned?
 
Discussion starter · #876 · (Edited)
Deepshax said:
I think I have the 6mm hex screws (will double check when I get home later). What was your experience with the 5mm hex screws? Do I leave the two bolts on the slider completely loose when tensioning via the longer bolt (pointing towards the BB)? ....do i have them slightly tensioned?
Click to expand...
Made-in-the-USA use Paragon machine works. Core models use something different. Ignore the difference between 5mm and 6mm hex bolts. It doesn't really matter. It's literally just the size of the tool you use. With all my Paragon machine works sliders I replaced the 5mm with titanium 6mm bolts because it's easier not to round out a 6mm bolt head.

Setup process -
1. Decide rear end length you want. Single speed - Figure out chainring combo to get that / cut chain.
2. Everything should be loose. Use the tension bolts to set the rear-end length where you want. Ensure the wheel is centered. With SS this is done with the chain on. With rear derailleur everything can be loose.
3. Crank down the hex bolts.
4. apply slightly more tension to the tension bolts and tighten the nut on the bolt at this point.

The process is pretty much the same and has a bunch of flexibility in it for this stlye of dropout. Steve has a video going through it with his Binary Maniac.


Profit.
 
#877 ·
cassieno said:
Made-in-the-USA use Paragon machine works. Core models use something different. Ignore the difference between 5mm and 6mm hex bolts. It doesn't really matter. It's literally just the size of the tool you use. With all my Paragon machine works sliders I replaced the 5mm with titanium 6mm bolts because it's easier not to round out a 6mm bolt head.

Setup process -
1. Decide rear end length you want. Single speed - Figure out chainring combo to get that / cut chain.
2. Everything should be loose. Use the tension bolts to set the rear-end length where you want. Ensure the wheel is centered. With SS this is done with the chain on. With gear everything can be loose.
3. Crank down the hex bolts.
4. apply slightly more tension to the tension bolts and tighten the nut on the bolt at this point.

The process is pretty much the same and has a bunch of flexibility in it for this stlye of dropout. Steve has a video going through it with his Binary Maniac.

Profit.
Click to expand...
Awesome - thank you!
 
#878 ·
Deepshax said:
I think I have the 6mm hex screws (will double check when I get home later). What was your experience with the 5mm hex screws? Do I leave the two bolts on the slider completely loose when tensioning via the longer bolt (pointing towards the BB)? ....do i have them slightly tensioned?
Click to expand...
I just found it too easy to round out a 5mm hex at the required torque for these bolts. A 6mm handles it much better. The 5mm works fine of the bolt and tool you're using fit really snug, but only if you can use the exact same tool any time you touch it. If the 5mm hex is slightly undersized at all, that torque is likely to famage the bolt. I read similar experiences from several people in the Singlespeed forum, and most of them remedied this by replacing the bolts. You probably don't need to adjust it often, or at all.

In my case, I didn't get my chain tension (singlespeed) just how I wanted it at home and tried to adjust it in the middle of a ride with a pocket multitool, and the bolt rounded out, making it useless. I just rode with a slightly loose chain and had to remove the damaged bolt with a bolt extractor, then replaced the bolts with the more stout M6 bolts.
 
#880 ·
I can't imagine a better SS. This is from Nick's first batch of Hummingbirds, and other than an early upgrade to an AXS dropper, and rotating between a rigid fork and this one, nothing has changed, as I can't imagine how I'd make it better. I even repurchased the same tires to not lose the magic.

I feel lucky to own this bike, and still get as much joy riding it as I did on the first ride.

Image
 
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