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WobbleEye

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
As I understand, both standards are the same, except for the front axle diameter (which can be sorted with a 15 to 12mm sleeve/reducer) - can anyone confirm this please?

Considering a Road Boost Gravel bike, and hoping to upgrade the wheelset down the track.

Any info would be appreciated, thanks :)
 
As I understand, both standards are the same, except for the front axle diameter (which can be sorted with a 15 to 12mm sleeve/reducer) - can anyone confirm this please?

Considering a Road Boost Gravel bike, and hoping to upgrade the wheelset down the track.

Any info would be appreciated, thanks :)
Road/gravel are typically 12x100 front, iwrc. But we haven't paid close attention. So we may be outdated.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Road/gravel are typically 12x100 front, iwrc. But we haven't paid close attention. So we may be outdated.
Road Boost is 110 x 12 at the front and 148 x 12 at the back - same as MTB boost except the front axle diameter is smaller.

My concern is disc and hub / cassette placement and the chainline. Also hope it's the same 19mm axle end caps.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Seems to be targeted at motorcycles. I haven't seen any bicycles using 12x110 wheels or forks.
It's meant to be a "new" standard for gravel and road e-bikes, but not overly popular.

Wider hubs make sense for these applications - the same reasons the MTB Boost exists.

The gravel bike I'm considering is Focus Atlas 6.7, it's a German tank really 😅
 
DT has perhaps one set of wheels in this size. I've never seen a
It's meant to be a "new" standard for gravel and road e-bikes, but not overly popular.

Wider hubs make sense for these applications - the same reasons the MTB Boost exists.

The gravel bike I'm considering is Focus Atlas 6.7, it's a German tank really 😅
Fascinating. That's the first pedal-powered gravel frame I've seen using 148. The fork is suspension corrected at 425mm axle-to-crown. That's a good thing and will be a requirement for my next gravel frame.

DT has at least one wheelset in the 12x110 spacing.
 
Maybe some big OE are toying with yet another 'standard' in order to set themselves apart from the other players in their field or from the past ie, planned obsolescence.. But when looking at the plethora of forks for gravel and frames for gravel and wheelsets, it's pretty clear that 142 x 12 rear and 100x12 front are absolutely dominant and completely adequate.

But, I don't understand the acceptance to buy a bike that you know has **** wheels, and you know you are going to buy 'better' wheels sooner than later, and when you do, and then try to sell the absolute **** OE wheels, you won't get **** for them. Many OE wheels cost the brands well under $100 a pair. Why not take longer, think more, sell extraneous stuff, spend whats needed the first time and be done with the bike for years. It will cost less in the long run, last longer with higher quality parts and make you happier from the first time you ride it.

DT
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Maybe some big OE are toying with yet another 'standard' in order to set themselves apart from the other players in their field or from the past ie, planned obsolescence.. But when looking at the plethora of forks for gravel and frames for gravel and wheelsets, it's pretty clear that 142 x 12 rear and 100x12 front are absolutely dominant and completely adequate.

But, I don't understand the acceptance to buy a bike that you know has ** wheels, and you know you are going to buy 'better' wheels sooner than later, and when you do, and then try to sell the absolute ** OE wheels, you won't get **** for them. Many OE wheels cost the brands well under $100 a pair. Why not take longer, think more, sell extraneous stuff, spend whats needed the first time and be done with the bike for years. It will cost less in the long run, last longer with higher quality parts and make you happier from the first time you ride it.

DT
If it can use MTB Boost wheels (albeit with a reducer sleeve for the front), I don't see a problem - an i25 wheelset with 45mm rubber would work. But it's a big "IF".

I think that bike is reasonably well specced, and is massively discounted - hence the temptation and questions.

But generally, I agree with your thoughts - it's not worth the risk of experimenting and I'm not in a hurry for that n+1.
 
I feel vindicated. 4 years ago I talked my 280# friend into a boost spacing for his custom road bike. If youre paying for custom then do it right. Didnt make sense for road bikes to adopt the old mtb spacing - obviously its just the bike industry playing the long game.

 
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