Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
161 - 180 of 198 Posts
Hi folks,

Hello again after a long time. I'm playing with the idea of converting my Arktos 150 to a 125. I can't find details on the Alchemy page (I fear they might be going out of business): am I right in believing that all I need is ca 210 x 50mm shock and a 130mm fork? Ie, no different linkage or so needed?

Thanks
 
if you are on the 150 travel w the longer 230x60 shock, you used the short shock extender for that travel/link. The shorter 120(125 w 140 link) uses a longer shock extender. If you ever rode it 135 or 140 you would have the longer shock extender and than you can use a travel reducer for the shock from 210x55 to 210x50. Fork it appropriately :)
 
I noticed on the alchemy site they are selling the 140 link extender and im 99.9999999% positive its the exact same extender as was used w the 120/135/150. That extender gives you the 120mm travel when combined w the 210x50 shock, and 135 w the 210x55. FWIW - if they will sell you the update 125/140 upper link you should get it - the 140 kinematic was better overall vs the 135 - subtle, but better. If for any reason you cant get the shock extender - LMK. I may have an extra one but w slight modification so it would fit a Rockshox. had to file some material to get it to fit the RS casting on their stanchions.
 
Anyone else having a slight play develop in the rear triangle? If I grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and pull laterally I can get about 1mm wiggle at the linkages, but that translates to more at the wheel edge. If I do the same at 9 o'clock, there's no issue. So it's not the wheel. It's like it's twisting around the front to rear axis.

I emailed them and they said sometimes the threads can wear on certain bolts, but it's hard to know which.

I've just disassembled, cleaned, inspected bearings and hardware, and reassembled. That didn't fix it. I might just have to buy a hardware and bearing set and hope that fixes it.
 
Anyone else having a slight play develop in the rear triangle? If I grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and pull laterally I can get about 1mm wiggle at the linkages, but that translates to more at the wheel edge. If I do the same at 9 o'clock, there's no issue. So it's not the wheel. It's like it's twisting around the front to rear axis.

I emailed them and they said sometimes the threads can wear on certain bolts, but it's hard to know which.

I've just disassembled, cleaned, inspected bearings and hardware, and reassembled. That didn't fix it. I might just have to buy a hardware and bearing set and hope that fixes it.
Yes I've been struggling with this issue constantly, and a while back I met someone locally who had a similar issue. The issue with my bike is the driveside "Baby Link" bolt becomes loose. My theory is that the suspension moving and twisting around during normal riding causes the bolt on that side to loosen slightly over a short amount of time, sometimes just after a couple rides, causing play where the Baby Link attaches to the axle. Alchemy released a revised Baby Link that uses no bolt on that side, instead the axle and driveside Baby Link are one machined piece with the non-driveside Baby Link still attached with a bolt. It seems they are aware of the issue, even though they would never admit it to me haha. I have yet to install it but will soon, along with the updated 125/140 upper link.

Next time you have it apart, try to take note of which bolts are loose-ish.
 
Yes I've been struggling with this issue constantly, and a while back I met someone locally who had a similar issue. The issue with my bike is the driveside "Baby Link" bolt becomes loose. My theory is that the suspension moving and twisting around during normal riding causes the bolt on that side to loosen slightly over a short amount of time, sometimes just after a couple rides, causing play where the Baby Link attaches to the axle. Alchemy released a revised Baby Link that uses no bolt on that side, instead the axle and driveside Baby Link are one machined piece with the non-driveside Baby Link still attached with a bolt. It seems they are aware of the issue, even though they would never admit it to me haha. I have yet to install it but will soon, along with the updated 125/140 upper link.

Next time you have it apart, try to take note of which bolts are loose-ish.
So I am having this same issue. I have had a hard time getting in contact with Alchemy and have tried emailing the hello@alchemybikes.com and haven't gotten a response in a few weeks. I ordered the full linkage replacement and the new baby link assembly seems like it will not work and they have not put out a new assembly online. So I now have the fixed driveside baby link that you are referring to but it no longer fits the bearing reducer that was required on the previous link design. This leaves me with a small amount of space between the bearings and the sleeve that goes between them It seems like this gap would cause issues and that Alchemy should have sent me a new sleeve that fits the new baby link design. Did you end up assembling the baby link even with the gap in the sleeve? Has the new assembly fixed your lateral play issues?

I am also concerned that I have a crack in my frame and they haven't been responding about that either. I have an XL which they have in stock still and it should be warrantied. Has anyone else had this problem. The "crack" is above that lower link on the backside of the seat tube.

Appreciate any feedback anyone has.
 
Hi folks,

After a year off for health reasons, I am getting my Arktos trail ready again. A set of Hayes Dominions are installed :love: (I hated the Code R) and some small things like cable lengths are sorted now.

I just noticed that my X2 shock makes a horrible squelching noise, even though I haven't ridden it all that much yet. I'll get it serviced, but hearing about the reliability issues, I am tempted to get rid of it.

What other shocks do people like on the Arktos? I am tempted to try Manitou, given their reputation for reliability and easy servicing. Anything else I should look at?

Cheers
 
Hi folks, After a year off for health reasons, I am getting my Arktos trail ready again. A set of Hayes Dominions are installed :love: (I hated the Code R) and some small things like cable lengths are sorted now. I just noticed that my X2 shock makes a horrible squelching noise, even though I haven't ridden it all that much yet. I'll get it serviced, but hearing about the reliability issues, I am tempted to get rid of it. What other shocks do people like on the Arktos? I am tempted to try Manitou, given their reputation for reliability and easy servicing. Anything else I should look at? Cheers
Check with Fox on this. If it's manufactured before 2024, they'll possibly replace it since they had so many issues for some of the earlier models. I did this and they replaced it with an arktos-tuned 2024 model.
 
Thanks - I just contacted them. A couple of bonus questions :):
1) I'm considering going down to 140 and lightening the bike a bit, hearing that the 140 version is particularly good. I need the shock extender + the 140 link, coming from the 150?
2) If I were to choose a shock - e.g., Rockshox, would I want a linear or progressive tune for the Arktos?
 
Thanks - I just contacted them. A couple of bonus questions :):
1) I'm considering going down to 140 and lightening the bike a bit, hearing that the 140 version is particularly good. I need the shock extender + the 140 link, coming from the 150?
2) If I were to choose a shock - e.g., Rockshox, would I want a linear or progressive tune for the Arktos?
Yes, you need the correct shock extender. I'd just reach out to alchemy and ask them if you can order the conversion kit with only the shock and linkage parts, but not the fork. The Arktos has an unusual suspension characteristic with the sine suspension. They don't recommend using anything except their custom tuned shocks.

Some people have said that alchemy is hard to reach but when I've emailed them in the past month or so they've been very responsive.
 
Update: Fox will either bring the shock up to 2024 spec or change it, for $199. I scheduled to send it in.

They were open to changing shock length - I might be tempted to go down to 140 and put a Helm 160 on (it's too burly for my wife)
 
So I am having this same issue. I have had a hard time getting in contact with Alchemy and have tried emailing the hello@alchemybikes.com and haven't gotten a response in a few weeks. I ordered the full linkage replacement and the new baby link assembly seems like it will not work and they have not put out a new assembly online. So I now have the fixed driveside baby link that you are referring to but it no longer fits the bearing reducer that was required on the previous link design. This leaves me with a small amount of space between the bearings and the sleeve that goes between them It seems like this gap would cause issues and that Alchemy should have sent me a new sleeve that fits the new baby link design. Did you end up assembling the baby link even with the gap in the sleeve? Has the new assembly fixed your lateral play issues?

I am also concerned that I have a crack in my frame and they haven't been responding about that either. I have an XL which they have in stock still and it should be warrantied. Has anyone else had this problem. The "crack" is above that lower link on the backside of the seat tube.

Appreciate any feedback anyone has.
Sorry for the late reply! I don't know how I missed your post. Has Alchemy gotten back to you?

I have not yet installed the updated Baby Link assembly. The last time I had it all apart I used a lot of threadlock and overtightened the Baby Link bolts which have held tight. Now I have a different issue, I believe the shock bushings are worn out but I have yet to tear into that.

I was given some new bearings with the updated Baby Link due to the bearing reducer not being needed. Did they give you those? I think I understand the sleeve-bearing gap issue you're having. I'll have to check what parts I have when I get home. I plan to do this update when I have some time, but it looks like I might run into the same issue you did.
 
I just got a mail from Alchemy saying that changing from 150 to 140 was only a matter of changing the shock, not changing any extenders or links. Can that be the case? I don't get why they would sell different shock extenders or links on their website in that case.
 
Update on the message above, if anyone ever runs into the same question:
125 and 140 link and extender are the same. 150 uses a different link and extender.

I am very tempted to make the switch from 150 to 140 when my X2 gets updated by Fox. If I then go for a fork like the Mezzer, where I can change travel easily, I could run two setups with minimal wrenching:
Front: Switch to a Manitou Mezzer in 160 or 150. If I want to run it in 140 of 130, I could do it through the trick of leaving the fork at the shorter travel when disconnecting the pump, or through travel tokens
Rear: Run the X2 in 210x55 (140mm travel), have a second shock on hand in 210x50 to run a short travel, pedal efficient setup if I want to do longer trips where efficiency is important.
 
I got my 125/140 link in the mail, but it seems I am missing some pieces. My 150 is a 2021, so I don't have a flip chip. I guess I'll need to buy the flip chip and bolt and 2 2153 bearings for the link.

@kamper11, you know this stuff well. If you don't mind:
1) Am I missing any other pieces? I have the link and extender and will get the flip chip insert + 2 bearings
2) Reading through the thread again, you seem to have tried a bunch of shocks. Which ones ended up being your favorites for 140 and 125? It sounded like the Rockshox SDU in linear tune.

(I'm looking at getting a 210x55 X2 on exchange from Fox when they rebuild my shock and was looking at the Cane Creek DB Air IL, the Rockshox SDU or the Manitou Mara Pro as alternatives)

Thanks for your tips!
 
I just found this thread and have been a proud Arktos 140 owner since 2023. For my local trails I run the chip in high as an effort to avoid pedal strikes. My bike is quite heavily modded now with Magura brakes, OneUp carbon 35mm rise bars and new clip in pedals, ENVE stem, DHR II rear max terra, DHF front max grip, Oval chainring, RevGrips, and Ergon saddle. The bike, to me, is one for all day, do it all rides. It's not the fastest up hill, but it can absolutely climb anything I throw at it. Downhill I feel so confident compared to my smaller Norco Fluid FS. It does seem to prefer to be ridden faster to really make it perform (as others have said)

I saw some people having issues with the links. Loctite is your friend on them. I had a baby link extension fail. Alchemy replaced the entire linkage set under warranty. I loctited the heck out of them and made sure everything was torqued to spec...it's been great ever since.

As others have said, it takes a bit to dial in the suspension how you like it. The bike seems to want right at about 27% sag in the rear and all of 30% in the front with rebound near center and compression a little on the lighter side. It will eat everything you throw at it for sure.

I would caution you to check your suspension bearings. Seems they get pretty chunky over time. Unfortunately they are not standard sizes so you have to order directly from Enduro or from Alchemy. They are all pretty easy to replace though.
 
Welcome! Nice to hear from other Alchemists :).

I started out on a 150 GX version and have also modded my bike quite substantially:
  • 240mm OneUp dropper (the stock one was way too short)
  • Schwalbe Magic Mary and Big Betty (stock tires had very light casings)
  • Hayes Dominion A4 brakes (I hated the Code R)
  • Higher rise bars
  • 125/140 link, with 2 travel options:
- 140/125 with Cane Creek Helm up front and RS Deluxe Ultimate (a lot of fun on trails that aren't too rough. Handles much nicer at lower speeds)
- 160/140 with Manitou Mezzer and RS Super Deluxe Ultimate (yet to be trialed)

I found the 140/125 more fun to ride on the trails I ride here in Seattle and Bellingham, but am keen to try the longer travel option to see how it goes.

I also had problems with linkage play, even after checking torque, and Alchemy supplied a new baby link that seems to have fixed the issue (fingers crossed).

Cheers
Image
 
161 - 180 of 198 Posts