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Manitou Mezzer: Owners Thread [Setup & Tech]

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#3,962 ·
Hard to say really what causes your issues, but I'd doubt it's the damper, you may try reducing the high speed damping a bit to check for sure, since from what I understand you left the general amount untouched, just removing what you assumed was a choking point.
You should also consider that maybe you're just running too deep in the stroke, as in rebound too slow, or spring rate too high, there are so many factors... I personay found by bracketing that more pressure in the main chamber works better on chunk at speed and steep trails, however, that costs me on slow speed flat terrain chunk, but that's a tradeoff I'm willing to take.
 
#3,963 ·
piciu256 said:
Hard to say really what causes your issues, but I'd doubt it's the damper, you may try reducing the high speed damping a bit to check for sure, since from what I understand you left the general amount untouched, just removing what you assumed was a choking point.
You should also consider that maybe you're just running too deep in the stroke, as in rebound too slow, or spring rate too high, there are so many factors... I personay found by bracketing that more pressure in the main chamber works better on chunk at speed and steep trails, however, that costs me on slow speed flat terrain chunk, but that's a tradeoff I'm willing to take.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the input, but I've already gone through all of that. I run zero HSC adjustment and as such changing the shim stack is "reducing the high speed damping". The fork stays relatively high in the stroke, despite testing lower spring rates in both main & IRT. I removed a shim from the rebound stack at the suggestion from Manitou, and testing fully open, but generally running a few clicks of rebound has been working the best.
 
#3,964 ·
Don't know what more to say, maybe you just have an uncommonly low pain threshold? Did you experience same issues on other forks? Or maybe you are actually running too soft of a shim stack actually? If you can't tell, I'm completely guess at this point, this fork has been the best thing I've done for my hands, while I never got arm pump, I did experience pain on previous forks and there were times that I felt like it couldn't move out of the way fast enough on square edges, certainly not the case here, but then again, I weigh almost half as much as you do, so the busings and stuff has a much easier time sliding under me in the worst scenarios, plus I'm relatively aggressive in my riding style, which probably also helps the fork do its job (quite a forward position), then again, I'm just thinking out loud different ideas.
 
#3,965 ·
Perhaps the problem is caused by the too small ports in the piston. At high speeds the flow is restricted not by shims but by ports. Dougal is offering the high flow piston with enlarged ports. I have it for Mattoc and it definitely makes a difference. For the first generation Mattoc I think he enlarged both compression and rebound ports. For Mezzer and new Mattoc only one, but I cannot recall which one. Better to check with him. I do not know if you can buy modified piston separately or only with pick and match kit. I got the kit and I'm happy with results. And I'm definitely very sensitive to fork harsness :)
 
#3,967 ·
piciu256 said:
Don't know what more to say, maybe you just have an uncommonly low pain threshold? Did you experience same issues on other forks? Or maybe you are actually running too soft of a shim stack actually? If you can't tell, I'm completely guess at this point, this fork has been the best thing I've done for my hands, while I never got arm pump, I did experience pain on previous forks and there were times that I felt like it couldn't move out of the way fast enough on square edges, certainly not the case here, but then again, I weigh almost half as much as you do, so the busings and stuff has a much easier time sliding under me in the worst scenarios, plus I'm relatively aggressive in my riding style, which probably also helps the fork do its job (quite a forward position), then again, I'm just thinking out loud different ideas.
Click to expand...
It's more about control and traction than comfort. Going at a fast pace and having the bike fly back at you when it hits a bump (without using much travel) both slows you down in the moment as well as makes you hesitant in the future - obviously this is a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much. I've emailed back and forth with Manitou throughout the process and have gone through all of their recommendations/checks, as well as testing/bracketing on my own. But I do appreciate you are trying to help out.
romulin said:
How much sag are you at? 35%-40% is my bet.
Controversy to what people believe, more damping can be better.
Click to expand...
Me? Oh god no. I'm aiming for 23-25% sag. I tried going up to 30% (which was actually an improvement on braking bumps/fast small rocks), but also changed the geo too much and felt worse on larger hits. I fully understand the need and benefit from more damping, but not when that damping is preventing your bike from tracking well or knocking you off line.
arnea said:
Perhaps the problem is caused by the too small ports in the piston. At high speeds the flow is restricted not by shims but by ports. Dougal is offering the high flow piston with enlarged ports.
Click to expand...
This is what I suspect as well. This last change was kind of my last effort to see if it works before shipping my damper off to him for tuning. Do you have the Pick & Mix? Or Stage 2?
 
#3,969 ·
has anyone found a good mud guard alternative to the standard one from Hayes? The upper mounting point is quite flimsy and I have broken two of them in the past 6 months. After some Google searching, it seems no one makes anything for reverse arch forks.

Image
 
#3,970 ·
EVgEEk said:
has anyone found a good mud guard alternative to the standard one from Hayes? The upper mounting point is quite flimsy and I have broken two of them in the past 6 months. After some Google searching, it seems no one makes anything for reverse arch forks.

View attachment 2141367
Click to expand...
There is one made. Bunch of talk about it in other mezzer thread I think. Comes in a few different sizes. Wish I could be of more help!
 
#3,972 ·
YouTube recommended this interview, and it's great in general, but holy **** towards the end CP describes almost exactly what I've been feeling (I think). The segment starts a little earlier discussing the bushings on the EXT fork, and this part is about issues he and a sponsored rider were having with the bushings on a Fox fork (time stamp should work, but it's at the 1:31:30 mark, if it does not):


I don't have a camera to confirm if this is actually happening, but it sounds exactly like what I'm feeling - and I am also a heavier rider.

Thinking this through, I'm wondering if I should burnish my bushings again to see what difference it makes. I originally did passes with a .07 head (which got things moving pretty well), but I also have a .1 head. If the behavior CP is describing is actually what I'm feeling, do y'all think a .1 head would delay when the the "block" effect comes into play? Make it worse? Or have negligible effect? (I'm not 100% that this is what I'm feeling, or what I will try burnishing again, just trying to think it through).
 
#3,973 ·
EVgEEk said:
has anyone found a good mud guard alternative to the standard one from Hayes? The upper mounting point is quite flimsy and I have broken two of them in the past 6 months. After some Google searching, it seems no one makes anything for reverse arch forks.
Click to expand...
As rtsideup said a few posts up, the VisionVelo is the best out there for the Mezzer. I picked one up for my current model Mezzer Expert and it is very sturdy, fits perfect, and is available is several sizes. They aren't cheap with shipping to the US but well worth it IMO if you want top quality.
 
#3,974 · (Edited)
jester6578 said:
Thank you for the input, but I've already gone through all of that. I run zero HSC adjustment and as such changing the shim stack is "reducing the high speed damping". The fork stays relatively high in the stroke, despite testing lower spring rates in both main & IRT. I removed a shim from the rebound stack at the suggestion from Manitou, and testing fully open, but generally running a few clicks of rebound has been working the best.
Click to expand...

Have you had your bushings burnished? From what I've read burnishing seems to make the most noticeable change.
 
#3,977 ·
jester6578 said:
DirtDiggler said:
Have you had your bushings burnished? From what I've read burnishing seems to make the most noticeable change.
Click to expand...
Yes, I own a burnishing tool.
Click to expand...
Have you tried even less sag? ~20%

I have 2 Mezzers, one tuned one stock and both feel crap with anyting more.
Imo Do what you have to to get that sag, it will feel much smoother ott, have more support and not feel under damped deep in the stroke and allow you to add some Hsc, which would only make it harsh if you were using too low pressures. And the rebound is fast enough. (now too fast with the shim removed)

Post your setup and pressures pls

That said, I've struggled to get the stock one to 100% happy place, and didn't play with it much after getting the tuned one but it's much better now the I know how it should feel and what pressures.
Tho if you don't mind the $, get the tune.
 
#3,978 ·
Got a quick question...
Did an early morning ride on a cool 55F (13C) morning on Friday after almost exclusively riding in warmer afternoon climate 85F (30C). Fork felt hella sluggish till it warmed up even though I used Shockcraft Hot Pink damper oil. I had experienced that before in much colder weather, but I don't remember it happening at these temps. The fork did speed up after 10-15 minutes of riding. I thought that the Hot Pink damper oil was supposed to be more stable across temperatures?

setup:
Burnished bushings
Pick and Mix compression and rebound piston
Hot Pink damper oil
Supergliss 100k in lowers
 
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