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Hi brain trust! How on earth are you guys getting consistent spoke lengths when splicing? I just started lacing up my eternity project and it just blew up in my face, as I got some super tight spokes and some super loose spokes... About to chuck the whole project out the window and buy the real deal :/ Understand the pricing now ;)
 
1) Know the target spoke length
2) build about 10mm too short
3) stretch using lever
4) adjust Splice if needed and adjust pre stretched build length to better achieve post stretched target
5) repeat you will converge on the ideal build length
6) assemble
7) adjust splices if needed
8 lock splices

done
 
1) Know the target spoke length
2) build about 10mm too short
3) stretch using lever
4) adjust Splice if needed and adjust pre stretched build length to better achieve post stretched target
5) repeat you will converge on the ideal build length
6) assemble
7) adjust splices if needed
8 lock splices

done
Thanks. Now I need to start from scratch
 
This is the way of prototyping, I’ve rebuilt my string wheel sets about 4 times now to get them to their current state of high reliability. And I know I’m not done yet. I want these to be “better in every way” then steel or other braided fabric spoke options out there
 
Can some ropes have been treated with wax or similar and thus be difficult to make the bury splice hold properly? I just thought of this as I made shoelaces from some of my rope and the rope has some waxy feel to it. Didn't think much of it before but now I am wondering if the rope I got (kite line) is not fit for spoke purposes...
 
Depth of the splice matters. For the splice hold. Practically speaking we should have some lock stitching at the depth we are using on spokes. Given the cyclic loading of spokes in severe Mtb use, zero tension slippage is expected. I’ve verified this on many different line types on actual wheels Since sewing is time consuming a 1 inch soaking with the lowest viscosity bob smith glue after the spoke has been stretched is a sufficiently effective splice lock.

It requires more than a drop and doing so before the sookes are stretched to near their final compressed diameter was counter productive
 
Does anyone have a good idea how to implement 2mm DM20 into a spare spoke kinda thing? I bought some on a whim, but I don't currently have time to start making actual wheelsets with it. But I would like to make spare spokes for touring purposes. Carrying the correct length spare spokes for multiple bikes is a bit of pain...

My initial idea was to just use the spokelet and bury splice approach. If I take a fib on tour, I can splice the spare spoke to length on the spot. Potentially even pre stretch it before putting it on the wheel. Or just put on, tighten, adjust the splice when I run out of spokelet threads etc. Since it's not about weight as much as it is the ease of packing and not having to pack different length spokes, I can use an extra long spokelet and bury splice to make things go smoothly.

Or I might be way off base. Please shoot me down if you see any issues with the plan.

The main issue is the spoke/hub interface. I'm not really keen on pulling apart wheels and pre treating the hubs just so I can potentially use a dyneema spare spoke later. I there any way to protect the cord if the hub spoke holes have not been treated? I'm sceptical of being able to treat hubs on the road.

One possibility could be to loop the cord through the hub flange and splice after instead of pushing the spliced loop through. That way I could perhaps fit a protective sleeve of some sort between the hub and cord. But what would be strong, thin and soft enough to survive?

I have a fiberfix. But those things are so dang expensive that I just want to take a few self made dyneema spokes and not have to worry if I lose more spokes than one.
 
I used 1.8mm Dyneema (common kitesurfing line) for spare spokes because the looped end can be pulled through a spoke hole easily
You can keep the tail of the splice out to allow it to be adjusted in the the field. the hanging tail helps to lock the splice a little too. you will want a thin piece of string to help feed it through.

Balance of probabilities is the spoke will break is on the rear drive side.
So this this only works if using DT swiss ratchet style hubs or similar where the cassette can be removed easily road/trail side without tools

Realistically if you are breaking so many spokes that you feel the need to carry a spare, something is probably very wrong with your wheels.

I was carrying them around as I was testing out many different build methods and material related to this topic and spoke failures were frequent in the early days and my ratchet drive hubs were super easy to get the cassette off.

Regardless of the fact that I think the idea is somewhat unnecessary , I'll post some pics on how it can be implemented.
I'm aware some people wish to be prepared for anything and it really is no load to carry whatsoever, so there is some potential benefit with no draw back.
 
here's how to do it
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small piece of string to pull it through, this requires some force

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rather than loop it through you could also use a berd style nibbet/plug to hold it in place but that's just another thing to carry and or lose. this is a temporary repair.

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Will not last forever, this set up will chafe through the line eventually but will easily get you riding long enough so that you can repair whenever you feel like it


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adjust the tail as needed for length when installed.
Tight enough to barely engage the spoke threads is your goal
 
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