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I've dealt with tubeless since the beginning and had all of the problems , and some that sealed with no issues. One thing that helped was to pre mount the tire with a tube ,let it sit over night. Remove the tube ,making sure to not unseat one side of bead . Reinstall the tire and add sealant , here a compressor is very helpful add a bit of soapy water and have the valve stem removed ,then put as much air in as fast as it will go . That works almost every time.
 
This is a pretty pretty ridiculous take. It's very common for the XC racing tires...
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I seated a maxxis minion a little while ago and yeah, it just popped into place, but it's far from appropriate IMO to assume that's just how every tire goes on. It's just not.
I don't run xc racing tires. And I never said that's how every tire goes on.

But I generally do run minions because they have the best combo of price, grip, and durability for me. And like I said, quality tires and they almost always seat well for me with just the floor pump. I've had similar experience getting DHRs, HR2s, Assguys etc to seat though I don't like them quite as much as DHFs.

My success rate getting all other brands tires to seat with a floor pump has been much less, probably less than 50%. Expecting a hassle is part of why don't often try other brands.

I seldom have a hassle with Minions.
 
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Just out of curiosity I tried to seat a Maxxis Assegai DD casing on a DT Swiss XMC 1501 wheel that was not freshly taped and with a tire that had a questionable amount of sealant on the bead. I have a buddy who swears that he can do his with a Cycplus but he only rides XC tires and my guess is that he has only tried brand new ones so that wouldn’t be similar in effort.

I couldn’t get it to seat with any of the small ones and I tried a bunch of different pressure tricks to get the air to start flowing. I finally got it to seat with the larger Fumpa pictured but had to press the tire down enough to get air going. It was at 50% battery life when I started the test and ran out when I got it done and with 28psi in (was going to 40 just to test). I then popped it off again and tried my smaller compressor (Fortress Two Gallon from Harbor Freight) and it popped it on immediately. I have a much larger Stealth 12 Gallon that stays in my garage and is what I normally use which would have also made quick work of it but it isn’t particularly portable whereas the Fortress is what I use for air tool work around the house and it is easily portable. So, my point is I’d spend slightly more and get the Fortress 1 gallon for $159. It is impressively quiet and only weighs 26lbs. I don’t use the one I have all that often but it has been completely dependable to this point.
 
I have a dewalt tire inflator but doesn’t have presta connection.
Something like this should attached to your DeWalt and allow you to inflate presta valves: Prestacycle Big Angle Presta Head

Another option is an air tank that you fill with your compressor at home, and take on the road with you. In theory you could also top it off at gas stations if you start to run low...

 
I bought one of those "charger/reservoir" type pumps a while back thinking it would free me from attempting to seat tires at gas stations.

I was wrong. It is still restricted by the presta valve core and I know of none that will work with the core removed. W/O the core, you might get enough flow to "pop" a problematic tire on. Hear me out:

If these reservoir pumps can mount a tire through the presta valve core, you could have just pumped the tire up on the rim w/o the "air charge" and it would have seated just fine. I have a supermarket-special Bell HV floor pump that if it won't seat the tubeless tire, the $160 bontrager flash pump damn sure won't, because it's not an endless supply of air like an air compressor and it simply doesn't have enough flow to "blast" a tire on like a compressor where you can remove the valve core and insert a compressor nozzle into the stem.

You don't need a crazy compressor though. See my sticky thread. The first video changed everything. Now I can seat tires with hand-pumps, not to mention floor pumps. Unfortunately, tubeless tech/the industry has not evolved to the point where you can just mount a tire on a rim and start pumping away and it magically mounts. It works for some combos, for other combos it doesn't work at all. I can think of a few distinct situations where the tire bead is so stiff like some of the XC tires or where sometimes the spoke-holes are too far apart and the tape sinks down into them, so that the tire won't trap air, and so on. I have changed to mostly using an electric Ryobi with my One battery system, but that's delivering air-compressor type volume again like if you have a nozzle, it's mainly like my Bell pump, just an endless supply.

Anyway, I found the "charger" style pumps to be useless. If the tire-rim combo is such that it actually works, then I didn't need it in the first place and a regular pump would have been fine. There is of course the expensive air compressor route, even sometimes this doesn't work in a few situations that I know of, but it generally takes less thinking and effort for most people, so it ends up being the solution much of the time, especially with an air-nozzle. If there are any issues seating though, I highly recommend to fall back to that sticky thread and the first video and how to "pre-set" the bead. It has saved me so much headache and now I can do it in the field, like at a hotel when I want to change tires on vacation, etc.
Removing the valve core is often the answer no matter what pumps the tire. I can need to do that in my shop with a significant air compressor as much as anywhere including with my tank/charge pump. For a long time now I do my first fill of a tubeless tire with the core out of stem.

I got the 2nd gen Trek pump seeing plastic bits with others and knowing they're usually good among many brands for warranty and small parts availability. It has been well worth it for trips such as can do a tubeless setup about anywhere and simplifying what I have at our cabin or travel from it to get things fixed.

Always removing core from stem also became a habit for how often I end up helping others. I'm a trail steward, have made or started pump tracks, am around lots of kids and families. That is often seeing folks who need help. It might not be perfect but that tank pump and removing the valve core seems like a few times per year saving the day for others move.
 
Removing the valve core is often the answer no matter what pumps the tire. I can need to do that in my shop with a significant air compressor as much as anywhere including with my tank/charge pump. For a long time now I do my first fill of a tubeless tire with the core out of stem.

I got the 2nd gen Trek pump seeing plastic bits with others and knowing they're usually good among many brands for warranty and small parts availability. It has been well worth it for trips such as can do a tubeless setup about anywhere and simplifying what I have at our cabin or travel from it to get things fixed.
Let me get this straight, your Trek pump can pump the tires with the valve core removed?
 
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Let me get this straight, your Trek pump can pump the tires with the valve core removed?
I'm pretty sure he means he just overpressures the tire with the valve core removed, allows the tire to bead and once that has happened you just reinstall the valve core and your tire will remain beaded allowing it to be filled.
 
Yeah, a charger type pump that can work w/core removed is the unicorn for tubeless. You shouldnt need to own an air compressor to own a bike.
 
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I'm pretty sure he means he just overpressures the tire with the valve core removed, allows the tire to bead and once that has happened you just reinstall the valve core and your tire will remain beaded allowing it to be filled.
I think @Jayem is asking how the pump head attaches to the valve stem with no valve core in place. Normally the valve core is integral to the process...
 
I think @Jayem is asking how the pump head attaches to the valve stem with no valve core in place. Normally the valve core is integral to the process...
To clarify, this applies to presta valves which as probably the most common mtb tire valve. The stem and valve core are separate parts. At no point am i removing the stem. Any new tire I buy that has a presta valve starts with the core removed, leaves the threaded end for the floor pump to attach to.
Yes the core is integral to the tire holding air but that's not what we're going for when doing this. Its just to set the bead and once you have that accomplished, pull the pump, let the air escape (the tire should remain beaded) replace the core and fill as normal.
 
Let me get this straight, your Trek pump can pump the tires with the valve core removed?
Yes, the charged tank will for a brief moment work just like my air compressor or traveling to one does. Understand this is for seating the tire, not one no longer uses a valve stem.

With valve core out of the stem no matter what your high pressure source is you can use a Schrader valve adapter or a tapered Schrader compatible end to get much more air in the tire fast. The Trek pump includes a plastic one in the handle. Of course you can buy a better brass one.

That rapid inflation seats the tire on the rim's bead. Use soapy water. Then fill sealant and put your valve core in.

If a new tire I don't even bother trying to fill it with valve core in because this way is so sure and fast. It can still need some bothersome tires to be stretched with a tube first that that's rare if you do it this way. Also rare for common good MTB tires like tubeless road or gravel tires can be.

I thought most people knew to do this but maybe not for how many times I got tires mounted for people who were struggling.
 
The life lesson I continually re-learn in these forums is different people have different experiences than I have had. And even if their experiences seem implausible to me, they are real.

So, I would have said the bontrager pump was killer. The local shop actually uses the pump over the compressor for bike builds. Thing has been used hundreds of times. Works like new.

And no doubt others have had them fall apart on them.
 
Yeah well my floor pump won't attach to the core or start pumping air if the core is removed and there's just the stem.
Genuinely curious, what does it grip to when you attach the nozzle of the pump?
Unless you're using a compressor that you physically have to press to the valve (like a gas station air fill) I can't think of a floor pump system that doesn't latch to the threads of either style of valve.
 
The chuck of the bontranger pumps can easily grip on without the core attached. I have done it countless times.

Even with that, I still prefer the compressor.

As per OPs travel requirement, this is why I still have the blast pump. I bring it with me to races given bringing a compressor is unrealistic. So if that is the reason why you want a blast pump, I totally understand and would generally recommend the bontranger one.
 
Genuinely curious, what does it grip to when you attach the nozzle of the pump?
Unless you're using a compressor that you physically have to press to the valve (like a gas station air fill) I can't think of a floor pump system that doesn't latch to the threads of either style of valve.
I have no idea but I've tried to put it on there many times with the core removed and it never works ha ha.
 
I've been successful seating many tires with a regular floor pump without doing any real prep like trying to seat half of the bead before pumping like a madman, but there are certainly some that won't seat well. I'm at the point now that since I have a compressor, why would I ever want to ever try with a floor pump. I travel a lot with my bike and I picked up cordless compressor for travels. It's pretty handy and works great.
 
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