TRP DH-R EVO brakes

Outlawed · Dec 10, 2024

villy.z said:
Thanks mate.
TRP told me that they used to recommend Shimano or TRP mineral oil. But based on some experience and reports from the pro riders, they now only recommend TRP oil. They find that Shimano oil may make the brakes more spongy. That's why I flushed my brakes with TRP oil fully, because I thought the bike shop used Shimano last time. I did not notice any difference.

When you do that procedure, do you only PUSH oil from the syringe at the caliper into the bleed cup, exactly as shown on the video?

I know this is also Shimano's method of bleeding, but many people fill the cup and PULL at the syringe at the caliper instead.

If you have seen Lewis's new method, they start like the TRP, pushing oil up into the cup, but then keeps cycling pull and push till no more bubbles appear. Apparently they take a lot of air out this way:

I had a shop bleed my Trail Evo's and they felt bad, realized talking with TRP they probably bled with a different brand mineral oil. Rebled it myself with TRP oil and it was back to normal. I have even used it in my Shimano XT brakes and they honestly feel better (even in the colder months as the XT's are on my winter beater hardtail). As for bleeding, I don't want to come across as know it all but the Marshy brake bleed works extremely well, have always gotten a consistently great bleed. In my experience TRP brakes seem to be more susceptible to sticky pistons, so cleaning/relubing them and working the pistons helps keep everything gucci.

villy.z · Dec 10, 2024

Outlawed said:
I had a shop bleed my Trail Evo's and they felt bad, realized talking with TRP they probably bled with a different brand mineral oil. Rebled it myself with TRP oil and it was back to normal. I have even used it in my Shimano XT brakes and they honestly feel better (even in the colder months as the XT's are on my winter beater hardtail). As for bleeding, I don't want to come across as know it all but the Marshy brake bleed works extremely well, have always gotten a consistently great bleed. In my experience TRP brakes seem to be more susceptible to sticky pistons, so cleaning/relubing them and working the pistons helps keep everything gucci.

Interesting! That makes sense though.

So Marshy's method for Shimanos where you open the bleed port at the bottom and make a big mess?
I've been doing that with Shimanos and I agree - it works great! Haven't tried it with TRPs yet. Maybe next time I will try doing this bleed method.

Just so we are on the same page: you have a full bleed cup at the lever (plunged), open the bleed port at the caliper fully, remove the plunger from the cup and let oil piss everywhere. Keep refilling the bleed cup so it is never empty.
Close the plunger, Close the bleed port at the caliper. Remove the plunger and purge any remaining air etc.
Correct?

jester6578 · Dec 10, 2024

villy.z said:
Interesting! That makes sense though.

So Marshy's method for Shimanos where you open the bleed port at the bottom and make a big mess?
I've been doing that with Shimanos and I agree - it works great! Haven't tried it with TRPs yet. Maybe next time I will try doing this bleed method.

Just so we are on the same page: you have a full bleed cup at the lever (plunged), open the bleed port at the caliper fully, remove the plunger from the cup and let oil piss everywhere. Keep refilling the bleed cup so it is never empty.
Close the plunger, Close the bleed port at the caliper. Remove the plunger and purge any remaining air etc.
Correct?

It's a modified gravity bleed, yeah. His intent for not using a catch tube/bottle at the bottom is to be able to rotate the caliper to get any bubbles out. You can also do a gravity bleed with a longer tube and use that slack to rotate the caliper, skipping most of the mess.

This can help with another issue that I've heard of in the calipers: getting a small air bubble stuck behind the piston. If your front and rear feel similar, it's unlikely both have stuck air (and so neither probably do), but it's possible. I think there are a few other tricks for trying to get rid of a bubble like that, but I'm not remembering them off the top of my head.

ocnLogan · Dec 10, 2024

jester6578 said:
This is from an internet comment, so take it with a full shaker of salt, but it seems in line with what the spy shots show:
View attachment 2122094
That sounds like a pretty significant redesign of the lever assembly. At the same cost, unless you need an upgrade asap, I would wait to see the changes myself. But if you need brakes now, or you can get the current model cheap, those are strong considerations as well.

So, did the discount ever show up on the current DHR?

I'm split a bit, I do think I'd like some more powerful brakes. I’m on OG quadiems, and quite like them. But I do think their reduce power is contributing to hand fatigue on longer downhills.

I’m torn between the DHR EVOs, and likely the dominion a4’s (or mayyyybe the Mavens). I have been super impressed with my quadiems reliability. Bite point is always the same, no fading, no problems. So I’m inclined to try the DHR EVOs, but I guess we will see

.

villy.z · Dec 10, 2024

ocnLogan said:
So, did the discount ever show up on the current DHR?

I'm split a bit, I do think I'd like some more powerful brakes. I’m on OG quadiems, and quite like them. But I do think their reduce power is contributing to hand fatigue on longer downhills.

I’m torn between the DHR EVOs, and likely the dominion a4’s (or mayyyybe the Mavens). I have been super impressed with my quadiems reliability. Bite point is always the same, no fading, no problems. So I’m inclined to try the DHR EVOs, but I guess we will see .

Honestly if I was you I would either wait for the new version of the DHR EVOs, or just go for Diminions.

Even though I love my DHR EVOs in terms of modulation and consistency, I had a lot of headaches with leaky bleed ports, several sets of contaminated brake pads and rotors, aftermarket levers etc. They are not cheap, and when you add up all these additional expenses, they end up super expensive. Also the lack of bite point adjust for such high end components is strange.

If TRP have solved all these Quality Control issues with the next version, it will be amazing!

RustyIron · Dec 10, 2024

villy.z said:
So if putting the Cascade Components adjuster will solve this problem without taking anything away, I might bite the bullet and go for it!

If six months from now, they perform like they do today, I can wholeheartedly recommend them. But I'm still cautious because I haven't had them long. But they're only $120. There's a lot sillier things to spend your hard earned money on.

jester6578 · Dec 10, 2024

ocnLogan said:
So, did the discount ever show up on the current DHR?

I'm split a bit, I do think I'd like some more powerful brakes. I’m on OG quadiems, and quite like them. But I do think their reduce power is contributing to hand fatigue on longer downhills.

I’m torn between the DHR EVOs, and likely the dominion a4’s (or mayyyybe the Mavens). I have been super impressed with my quadiems reliability. Bite point is always the same, no fading, no problems. So I’m inclined to try the DHR EVOs, but I guess we will see .

I have DHRs, so haven't been watching prices.

villy.z said:
Even though I love my DHR EVOs in terms of modulation and consistency, I had a lot of headaches with leaky bleed ports, several sets of contaminated brake pads and rotors, aftermarket levers etc. They are not cheap, and when you add up all these additional expenses, they end up super expensive. Also the lack of bite point adjust for such high end components is strange.

If TRP have solved all these Quality Control issues with the next version, it will be amazing!

FWIW, my DHRs have been as reliable as any SRAM or Shimano set I've had. They have their quirks, but most brakes from smaller companies do.

Outlawed · Dec 10, 2024

@villy.z You can also do a more contained gravity bleed like @jester6578 mentions. It's hard to deviate from such a simple method that always provides the desired result. I HATE soft, spongey brakes. (And for the record when I am not letting liters of mineral oil piss out lol).

Baz113 · Dec 10, 2024

So is anyone using 100% shimano oil and has positive feedback about these brakes? I was planning on using shimano oil when installing my set - they are used so need a full bleed volume of mineral oil

jester6578 · Dec 10, 2024

Baz113 said:
So is anyone using 100% shimano oil and has positive feedback about these brakes? I was planning on using shimano oil when installing my set - they are used so need a full bleed volume of mineral oil

I am currently. I figured I'd use up my Shimano oil before getting another bottle of TRP. I'll be swapping back, but I can't say I noticed a big difference one way or the other.

Baz113 · Dec 10, 2024

jester6578 said:
I am currently. I figured I'd use up my Shimano oil before getting another bottle of TRP. I'll be swapping back, but I can't say I noticed a big difference one way or the other.

thanks for the data point. i have been using BMW hydraulic oil in all my shimano brakes for a few years now with no noticeable issues so can’t imagine much between bike brand oils

jester6578 · Dec 10, 2024

Baz113 said:
thanks for the data point. i have been using BMW hydraulic oil in all my shimano brakes for a few years now with no noticeable issues so can’t imagine much between bike brand oils

Seth (of Berm Peak) used baby oil in a set of Shimano Brakes for a year, showing again that the differences are minimal. I'd still match brands all else being equal, but not going to worry if I don't.

Dabs For Everyone · Dec 10, 2024

jester6578 said:
Seth (of Berm Peak) used baby oil in a set of Shimano Brakes for a year, showing again that the differences are minimal. I'd still match brands all else being equal, but not going to worry if I don't.

FWIW I think the TRP/Tektro fluid is slightly cheaper than Shimano fluid.

socalrider77 · Dec 10, 2024

I also use shimano oil in my brakes. When I swapped out the TRP oil with shimano oil, I didn’t notice them getting spongier. I’m almost out of shimano oil so maybe I’ll do TRP next go round and see if there’s a difference

In regards to being spongy, they are definitely more vague feeling than shimano brakes or mavens. But they’re also way more consistent. I have the cascade adjusters sitting in my tool box, will install them once the weather gets bad. My riding buddy had them and it for sure took the sponginess out of the lever and made it much firmer like shimano, so I figured I’d give them a go

villy.z · Dec 11, 2024

socalrider77 said:
I also use shimano oil in my brakes. When I swapped out the TRP oil with shimano oil, I didn’t notice them getting spongier. I’m almost out of shimano oil so maybe I’ll do TRP next go round and see if there’s a difference

In regards to being spongy, they are definitely more vague feeling than shimano brakes or mavens. But they’re also way more consistent. I have the cascade adjusters sitting in my tool box, will install them once the weather gets bad. My riding buddy had them and it for sure took the sponginess out of the lever and made it much firmer like shimano, so I figured I’d give them a go for $120

Very helpful. Thanks a lot!
That's a second data point about the Cascade Components adjuster (your buddy and someone who commented earlier in the thread). You will be third one!
I might bite the bullet. 120USD.... with another 43 shipping to Australia.
And the Oak components levers were 100+USD ..... it start feeling like these are getting as expensive as trickstuff

But of the brake adjuster does indeed take the sponginess out, I am all in!

villy.z · Dec 18, 2024

What rotors and pads is everyone running with their TRP DH-R EVOs that you find work well?
Do you stick with the TRP's 2.3mm rotors, or tried 2.0 or even 1.8s?

If using 2.3mm rotors, are you using the cheaper RS01Es or the two piece TR42s?
I have read people are struggling with the bedding in process of the RS01E rotors.

Also pads... I haven't heard anyone loving the stock blue performance resin pads. You guys running the TRP semi-metallic (red) or metallic (orange), Shimanos, Galfer, MTX ?

I have a few sets of pads (Shimano metalic and Galfer Black and purple) that got glazed pretty badly with the 2.3mm RS01Es rotors. I'm not convinced that it is a contamination issue as there is no oil leaking, and the brakes don't squeak like hell .... just stopping power is drastically decreased.

Cheers

Nat · Dec 18, 2024

villy.z said:
What rotors and pads is everyone running with their TRP DH-R EVOs that you find work well?
Do you stick with the TRP's 2.3mm rotors, or tried 2.0 or even 1.8s?

If using 2.3mm rotors, are you using the cheaper RS01Es or the two piece TR42s?
I have read people are struggling with the bedding in process of the RS01E rotors.

Also pads... I haven't heard anyone loving the stock blue performance resin pads. You guys running the TRP semi-metallic (red) or metallic (orange), Shimanos, Galfer, MTX ?

I have a few sets of pads (Shimano metalic and Galfer Black and purple) that got glazed pretty badly with the 2.3mm RS01Es rotors. I'm not convinced that it is a contamination issue as there is no oil leaking, and the brakes don't squeak like hell .... just stopping power is drastically decreased.

Cheers

I use RS01E rotors, 223mm in the front. My DH bike also has a 223mm rotor in the back while the enduro and ebike have a 203mm rear rotor.

I’ve had great performance with MTX gold, Galfer purple, and Galfer green pads.

I’ve had good performance with Discobrakes ceramic pro black pads and with Trucker Co. pads.

villy.z · Dec 18, 2024

Nat said:
I’ve had great performance with MTX gold, Galfer purple, and Galfer green pads.

Thanks for the input mate.
Have you run Galfer Purple in the front or rear?

I remember the Frameworks team run Green on the front, purple on the rear.

I tried the Purple on the front but wasn't too impressed. On the rear seems much better with nice modulation.

villy.z · Dec 18, 2024

NJTransplant said:
ran an adapter on my spire for awhile, bike park riding etc. Was perfectly fine with 2.3mm thick rotors. I reached out to TRP and they said to send it.

Rotor was a 223 as well and took a lot of heavy abuse. I check my centerlock stuff a few times a season to make sure it's tight like I do with 6 bolt otherwise I think you'll be just fine.

So as to not make two posts, warning this is long sorry in advance...

Semi-update on my metallic pads (that everyone recommends not getting and going MTX but I'm stubborn and only learn by experience apparently). Completely glazed the rear pad which is funny, it was fine when I hung the bike up and I hadn't ridden it in around 2 months (built a small travel bike I was having a good time on so didn't pull out the big bike). When I took it out this last time and dropped into a fairly fast paced trail I realized I had 0 rear brake at speed, would just roll through it as hard as I gripped the lever.

Both bikes run DHR-EVO brakes, I really love the consistent lever feel but damn these pads. Going to try MTX as per everyone's recommendation(s) but curious as to Red vs Gold. I ride lots of vert, sometimes some real steep and big terrain. I've read about mix and matching etc but I'm thinking of getting 4 sets (2 bikes) I was thinking of doing 2 gold and 2 red and test which I like better but not 100% sure.

I did the sandpaper/cleaning test but I cannot get this rear brake to bed in with the RS01E rotor, spend probably 30+ minutes yesterday on the little hill outside my house trying to bed them in. They would absolutely start to grip eventually but if I let it cool and tried again I had 0 bite at all and could barely lock it up with full pressure. It has a fresh bleed, lever feels awesome.

Also semi-interested in the simano metallic pads with the fins, J04C. Not entirely sure which way to go at this point. I usually prefer how metallic pads perform which is why I haven't gone MTX yet.

Bikes are Transitions Spire (223/203) and a smuggler(203/180)
Rider weight 155-160lbs or around 70kg
Mostly dry conditions until the winter the it's snow, kitty litter mud, and general grossness
Steep rocky terrain and I ride quite hard with limited skill at times so my brakes get used a lot especially the rear which is what recently glazed on the spire. I tend to like to drag my rear brake into turns before engaging and I think that's what caused the most recent issue and then the bike sitting for awhile.

Oh ok..... it is not just me who is having issues with metallic pads glazing.

You got a few sets of MTX pads, already. Which ones did you go for and how do you find them compared to the sintered/metallic you used to run?

Did you also get new rotors or did you resurface the old ones?

Cheers

cookieMonster · Dec 18, 2024

villy.z said:
What rotors and pads is everyone running with their TRP DH-R EVOs that you find work well?
Do you stick with the TRP's 2.3mm rotors, or tried 2.0 or even 1.8s?

If using 2.3mm rotors, are you using the cheaper RS01Es or the two piece TR42s?
I have read people are struggling with the bedding in process of the RS01E rotors.

Also pads... I haven't heard anyone loving the stock blue performance resin pads. You guys running the TRP semi-metallic (red) or metallic (orange), Shimanos, Galfer, MTX ?

I have a few sets of pads (Shimano metalic and Galfer Black and purple) that got glazed pretty badly with the 2.3mm RS01Es rotors. I'm not convinced that it is a contamination issue as there is no oil leaking, and the brakes don't squeak like hell .... just stopping power is drastically decreased.

Cheers

I run the stock TRP 223mm rotor on the front of my Relay, and a SRAM 220 on the back.

I run Saint metallic pads, which are finned (yes, they fit perfectly in TRPs).

There is no fade or change in performance or lever feel even going down our steepest trail, which descends 1700’ in one mile.👌

TRP DH-R EVO brakes

Outlawed

villy.z

jester6578

ocnLogan

villy.z

RustyIron

jester6578

Outlawed

Baz113

jester6578

Baz113

jester6578

Dabs For Everyone

socalrider77

villy.z

villy.z

Nat

villy.z

villy.z

cookieMonster

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