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Enlarging the inside of a headtube

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#22 ·
Is it the angle you're after? Apparently they make some that don't require headtube modification. I learned about that here:


William P said:
Wolf Tooth makes angled headsets called Geoshift in 1* ,and 2* offsets.

www.wolftoothcomponents.com

Wolf Tooth 2 Degree GeoShift Performance Angle Headset

Adjust the geometry of your bike by changing the head tube angle by 2º with the GeoShift 2º Performance Angle Headset. It allows you to change the head tube angle by -2º to make for a slacker geometry for added stability on fast descents, or by +2º by using the opposite orientation of the...
www.wolftoothcomponents.com www.wolftoothcomponents.com

Works in UK makes them for classic 1 1/8 bikes in 1*

workscomponents.com

Works Components

Manufacturers and designers of Angle Headsets, Chainrings and other high quality World Cup Proven CNC bicycle components proudly made in the UK.
workscomponents.com workscomponents.com

Cane Creek offers them also.

AngleSet

This is a legacy product - no longer available for sale. Please visit our headsets collection for our current offerings. The award-winning AngleSet threadless headset makes it possible to change your game. You can transform the head angle of your mountain bike and dial in the perfect geometry to...
canecreek.com

Head tube length is a factor in this also. But the small steerer tube in the larger frame allows more range of adjustment.

The same headset allows +/- adjustement depending on which way it's installed.


" In theory you could get more angle with a straight steerer, but I don't know of anyone who makes an angleset to take advantage of this."


Since my bikes are older I only have experience with the Works 1 1/8 version. Check the spec sheet for newer frames. I didn't look into the tapered frame products very much. The do sell fork crown conversion to use them with 1 1/8 forks. So this comment may be correct. All my forks are 1 1/8 so I was looking at it form that POV.
Click to expand...
 
#23 ·
Call me a heretic, but a degree of two of HTA makes no real difference, especially on wagon wheels. What makes a difference is a dropper...or a bigger dropper, or a short stem and wide bar. Those are way more responsible for preventing the endo.
 
#24 ·
#25 ·
Jayem said:
Call me a heretic, but a degree of two of HTA makes no real difference, especially on wagon wheels. What makes a difference is a dropper...or a bigger dropper, or a short stem and wide bar. Those are way more responsible for preventing the endo.
Click to expand...
I would say it depends on what HTA your starting with and your goals for the bike... but, I agree that 1* difference is so minor and not really worthwhile. Like you alluded too, there's more to it than just HTA.
 
#26 ·
bmwpowere36m3 said:
I would say it depends on what HTA your starting with and your goals for the bike... but, I agree that 1* difference is so minor and not really worthwhile. Like you alluded too, there's more to it than just HTA.
Click to expand...
Even a couple degrees IME. The industry has pushed this so hard and people think they have to buy the slackest bikes or they can't possibly ride stuff. The reason they are endoing/crashing is not even related to this. Weight shift, being able to move weight back and low with a dropper, wide bars for leverage to not let the front wheel "fold", and so on, are the things that resist this. People think they need crazy slack HTAs and while I'm not advocating going super steep or anything that someone will try to pull out of context...this has gone pretty stupid in the MTB world IMO.
 
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#29 ·
The material that's needed to be removed is further in than the bearing seat, NOT the flanges/sidewall/seat of where the bearing sits.

As mentioned by ilmfat, not many options for IS head tubes. 9 Point 8 might be the only ones who offer this product for IS.

I've been curious about trying this product, but never watched the installation video... at least I don't remember it. I don't think I'll have to deal with removing material though - I have a steel frame.
 
#31 ·
RS VR6 said:
I got a 9 Point 8 Slack R headset. The outer diameter of the Slack R cups are noticeably larger than the inside diameter of the head tube. The lower cup requires me to sand or grind some 4mm of material off the inside of the head tube.
Click to expand...
Two pages in, and nobody has yet realized that this is a troll message. Chef’s kiss.
 
#32 ·
Jayem said:
Even a couple degrees IME. The industry has pushed this so hard and people think they have to buy the slackest bikes or they can't possibly ride stuff. The reason they are endoing/crashing is not even related to this. Weight shift, being able to move weight back and low with a dropper, wide bars for leverage to not let the front wheel "fold", and so on, are the things that resist this. People think they need crazy slack HTAs and while I'm not advocating going super steep or anything that someone will try to pull out of context...this has gone pretty stupid in the MTB world IMO.
Click to expand...
add to that, if head tube angle was so critical, how do people control their bikes under different riding conditions? HTA is DYNAMIC once the bike moves. Unless they are riding a rigid bike, fine tuning HTA for a general purpose trail bike is pointless. I've ridden my Chameleon from 120mm all the way to 160mm, and at every increment in between, along with 27.5, 29er and mullet wheelset and min/max wheelbase with the adjustable drop outs. It handled great, climbed well, and descended plenty well enough across all configurations. I took 2nd in an enduro on it with a SC34 120mm fork. Yet "slacked out" as a mullet with a 160mm on it now, it still rails singletrack like a snake on crack and is a tech climbing dream! I'd argue playing with stem length and getting the right tires at the right pressure will do far more for OP than carving up a frame for a gimmick.
 
#35 ·
RS VR6 said:
This is the correct headset. 9 Point 8 did say that on some frames, you'll need to remove some material.

Came across this video. This is exactly what I'm talking about.


Click to expand...
Seen as how this is just a clearance for the inner tube, you could use a half-round file. It will take longer than that stone, but it will work just as well.

Stones and abrasives tend to gum up with aluminum, but for this little bit, you'd probably be fine. A cylindrical die grinder bit would be better tbh - it won't be as easy to make concentric as a conical stone, but that won't matter.

Personally, I don't love this system, but I don't see any structural issue with the material you are removing. Make sure you have enough steerer on your fork before you commit.
 
#36 ·
Jayem said:
Even a couple degrees IME. The industry has pushed this so hard and people think they have to buy the slackest bikes or they can't possibly ride stuff. The reason they are endoing/crashing is not even related to this. Weight shift, being able to move weight back and low with a dropper, wide bars for leverage to not let the front wheel "fold", and so on, are the things that resist this. People think they need crazy slack HTAs and while I'm not advocating going super steep or anything that someone will try to pull out of context...this has gone pretty stupid in the MTB world IMO.
Click to expand...
Exactly.
 
#37 ·
I don't know about the angle but it's not that hard to notice the extra 10-20mm of wheelbase with a -2⁰ headset.

I had one of these headsets on a Yeti a few years back. Good product. Didn't have to grind the frame though. I wish manufacturers wouldn't use IS standard.
 
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