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What's your gravel gearing?

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I use a 40 x 10-52 12s. Its a 12s Ratio ratchet pulling an Eagle mechanical derailleur on 12s mtb cassette. It is absolutely awesome. The events in the south west regularly demand both the 10t and the 52t. Not for long periods of time, but when I need them I need them. For some events I could certainly go to a 42t, and others like Grinduro, a 28t haha just kidding. But a 38t 'ring for events with a bunch of climbing per mile and a lot of it in the 20% range. Climbing pitches that steep after hours of riding hard is never fun, but having 'range' is what gravel is about to me and the Ratio ratchet and Eagle clutched rear mech is effective and tough.

DT
This sums up my experience pretty well. I was running the exact same drive train here in Norcal. I have since gone AXS, but kept the same gearing. I frequently have to do climbs of 20-27% on rutted out loose over hard fire roads. I use every bit of the range on almost every ride.
 
This sums up my experience pretty well. I was running the exact same drive train here in Norcal. I have since gone AXS, but kept the same gearing. I frequently have to do climbs of 20-27% on rutted out loose over hard fire roads. I use every bit of the range on almost every ride.
This gearing is going to get you pretty much everywhere and most riders don't need 2x to give them a perceived "more range". I've kept up with the road guys using my 40t chainring and the 10t on the cassette, yeah, I was spinning more than the road guys. Also, using a 40/ 52, you can climb about anything that you can get traction on. I believe there is no need for a 2x on gravel. If I was still doing road(which I dearly miss) I would figure out a 1x system for that too.
 
I'll throw this out there again... A very quick and easy way to compare gear ratios is to divide the chainring teeth by the number of cassette teeth.
for example, 50 crank teeth divided by 11 cassette teeth = 4.54 wheel rotations to 1 or 4.545:1
40 crank teeth divided by 52 cassette teeth = .769 rotation to 1 or .769:1
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Seems as though most folks here are far more concerned with total range rather than moderating gear-to-gear step gaps. I would not call myself a 1x devotee. I'm more of a 1x accepter. Front derailleurs suck. The extreme chain lines created by 1x gearing also suck (literally). The mechanical simplicity of 1x outweighs the negatives for me. But I still wish the 1x gear gaps were smaller.

Shimano 1x12 40x10-45 offers more range than I need for my gravel riding. 1x12 30x10-51 exceeds what I need for my mountain bikes. I really feel like I'm riding 11 speeds because I rarely use the 45T on gravel nor do I use the 10T on MTB. SRAM's 11-44 12s cassette really does seem perfect for me. There's not a practical way to inject that 11-44 cogset into my Shimano setup. Alas, I am a Shimano devotee and just not willing to mix a full SRAM drivetrain into my decades long accumulation of Shimano tools and habits. Let the flaming begin.
 
Pretty happy here with my 38T + 10-52 setup for gravel. I start spinning out at 45+ km/h which is already a fast descent. I'm not racing so it's not a must for me to add 300W while already going downhill fast. That's a luxury problem for me. The most important part is getting up all the steep stuff. 38x52 works fine for me, unless we get into 20+% territory with loose surface where I can't stand on the pedals without breaking traction. I used to run 36T at the front but I was constantly riding the 10-11-12 teeth on the cassette. With the 38 I'm a bit more in the middle.

Then again, I'm far from a pro, more of a MAMIL. My FTP is 3.6W/kg. Nothing earth-shattering. Biggest advantage is I don't have a lot of weight to carry uphill :D (145lbs)
 
Seems as though most folks here are far more concerned with total range rather than moderating gear-to-gear step gaps
Depends on where I ride. For off-road total range matters to me the most. Gear steps is for road riding. On the road I prefer a 2x12 setup because of this. If it wasn't so hilly where I live I would get a close-ratio cassette. Must be a lot of fun on the flat to ride something like a 12-28.
 
1x12 36T oval and 10-51 SLX cassette with GRX 820 shifters. Not sure if the oval is better but I don't notice any drawback. I find this the perfect balance for the hills and flats here. I'm rarely in 52 and spend most of my time in the middle to lower part of the cassette on flats. I'd consider going to 38T but the gap to the chainstay is too tight.
 
The narrow wide 1x chainring helps to keep the chain on when it gets rough. Supposedly it helps more than a rear mech with a clutch. While 2x is still an option, it can drop chains more so than 1x, the chain just does not stick to the regular chainrings as well.
 
The narrow wide 1x chainring helps to keep the chain on when it gets rough. Supposedly it helps more than a rear mech with a clutch. While 2x is still an option, it can drop chains more so than 1x, the chain just does not stick to the regular chainrings as well.
I have a wide/narrow 1X chainring. I forgot to re-engage my clutch after chain servicing and the chain popped straight off, coming off a wooden rail-trail bridge. The clutch is a lot more useful than I thought it would be.
 
My bike wasn’t exactly listed (option 1.5?): a 40t x 10-52 mullet. I use ‘em all but never feel the need for more at either end. Wife’s new Checkpoint is 40t x 10-44 XPLR, so she trades my mega-bailout gear for tighter shift spacing. Works well because her power/weight is higher.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
After a few months on the 1x12 40/10-45T setup, my opinion remains the same. The 10 and 45T are totally unnecessary. Essentially I'm riding a 12-40 10 speed because I never visit either end of the cassette on my typical gravel riding. I do not regret switching to GRX 12s because the overall shifting performance is noticeably smoother under load than 11s was. 12s also simplified my spare parts collection since all my mountain bikes are 12s. Having all Microspline hubs with 12 speed chains and cassette is mentally easier.

I'm still wishing for a 12 speed 11-42 Shimano cassette.
 
After running 1x11 38 x 11-42 for a while, I had numerous occasions where I wanted more on both ends. To get a wider range, I went to a Garbaruk 11-50 cassette, a Garbaruk extended cage for the GRX derailleur, and a 42T chainring. I'm getting a little noise in the smaller cogs that I need to massage a bit, but the shifting is reliable, and I got the result I wanted.
Image
 
My bike wasn’t exactly listed (option 1.5?): a 40t x 10-52 mullet. I use ‘em all but never feel the need for more at either end. Wife’s new Checkpoint is 40t x 10-44 XPLR, so she trades my mega-bailout gear for tighter shift spacing. Works well because her power/weight is higher.
I'm running a mullet as well, 42t x 10-52. I'm actually thinking about switching to XPLR 10-44 for tighter spacing on the road. I rarely use the 52 but I need to ride on pavement to get to any gravel. In a perfect world I'd switch to the new 13 speed XPLR but that would require a whole new frame.
 
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