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Schwalbe Albert pro, Shredda tires ?

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#601 ·
GlazedHam said:
That's why we use calipers; so some idiot can't say, "no they are not!" without getting fact checked dozens of times. Doesn't seem to stop you though.
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You guys are bonkers with your calipers. It’s a really good tire that you’re dismissing because it measured 1/10” smaller than advertised.
 
#602 ·
dlxah said:
It seems like they just found a clever way to make a heavy casing tire ride like a lighter casing. They claim the benefit is you get the same grip at higher pressures, but I presume you actually need higher pressure to get the same cornering support and protection from pinch flats or rim damage. With that high pressure, does that mean it will also rebound faster like a lighter casing tire, or will you still get the more damped feel of the heavier casing? It sounds like it feels more like a lighter casing while (hopefully) providing the durability of a heavy casing. I'm not sure that's something I actually want, as I generally prefer the damped feel of heavier casings. I'm open minded to it, though. Initial impressions seem very positive at least.
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They feel damped even at a higher pressure than I’m used to.
 
#603 · (Edited)
I have the Albert Gravity 2.6 on a 30 mm rim, and it’s a bit more rounded than I like. I’m getting a 33 mm rim to try and bring the shoulder knobs up a bit more, to bite a bit earlier. I think that a 36mm rim would be too wide, pushing the sidewalls out too far relative to the tread.

I‘m having a hard time noticing the radial difference, because I pulled my Magic Mary Super Gravity off to put this on, so I haven’t compared them back to back.
The tire I have been alternating with is my light trail wheel, a very large 2.6 tire in a light trail casing with an insert. So, there is so much difference in tread, rubber, casing, weight and volume that I can’t really tease out the difference the radial casing makes.
Once I get the 33 mm wheel I can do back to back between the 2.4 Mary Gravity and 2.6 Albert Gravity radial. However, our bike park closed last week, and the trails might close soon too, so not sure if I can get that done before the end of season.

I also have a Mary radial 2.5 Trail on order. Planning for that to be my wet weather tire.
 
#604 ·
Nat said:
You guys are bonkers with your calipers. It’s a really good tire that you’re dismissing because it measured 1/10” smaller than advertised.
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Yeah, I don't really care about the measurements either. It runs slightly small and should probably be labeled a 29x2.4, but whatever, the thing rips in my terrain. If others don't like it, fine by me, that just means more availability for you and I! :geek:
 
#610 ·
The MM will stretch to about a 2.45" and it works very well.

That said, there is no doubt that there is a strong correlation between more width resulting in more traction, all else the same. Increased weight and rolling resistance are the negatives of course.
 
#611 ·
#613 ·
Suns_PSD said:
The MM will stretch to about a 2.45" and it works very well.

That said, there is no doubt that there is a strong correlation between more width resulting in more traction, all else the same. Increased weight and rolling resistance are the negatives of course.
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I’m wondering if there’s more of a ‘virtual’ width factor here given how the tire deforms differently.

No complaints, just observations.

I’m looking forward to running these!
 
#615 ·
Suns_PSD said:
The MM will stretch to about a 2.45" and it works very well.

That said, there is no doubt that there is a strong correlation between more width resulting in more traction, all else the same. Increased weight and rolling resistance are the negatives of course.
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Traction ehh not really. I find higher volume tires to be a little more compliant but at the cost of precision. It's definitely easier to feel the limit when it's preceded by sidewall flex. I see where people are coming from though.
 
#616 ·
Suns_PSD said:
The MM will stretch to about a 2.45" and it works very well.

That said, there is no doubt that there is a strong correlation between more width resulting in more traction, all else the same. Increased weight and rolling resistance are the negatives of course.
Click to expand...
The bolded part is important. If their marketing is to be believed, then the radial has a much larger contact patch than a non-radial. I think it was in an interview with a Schwalbe tire engineer on The Loam Wolf who said that at the same psi the radial carcass has a 30% larger contact patch.

Image
 
#617 ·
PhoS said:
Looks ridiculous. I usually run shortys in the winter on the eeb but I think the shredda is a bit too much for my conditions. Too much rock here, we don't really get deep loam like up north.
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Although if the knobs deform to grip the rock they might have good bite. Get one of your riding buds to try it and see if he eats it!
 
#618 ·
Nat said:
The bolded part is important. If their marketing is to be believed, then the radial has a much larger contact patch than a non-radial. I think it was in an interview with a Schwalbe tire engineer on The Loam Wolf who said that at the same psi the radial carcass has a 30% larger contact patch.

View attachment 2118156
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Not certain I buy it. On uneven terrain, sure. But physics says otherwise on flat terrain.


Technically, (ignore radial tires for a moment) any tire of any size will have the exact same contact patch (amount of rubber touching the ground) if they are set at the same pressure (assumes bike/ rider weight is the same). Problem is that a narrower tire at the same pressure will flatten more front to back, making it less 'round' and therefore it rolls slower. Next is that, smaller tires, everything else being equal, require more air pressure to stay off the rim. So, you can't really run a smaller tire at the same air pressure so it will in fact end up with less compliance and a smaller contact patch as air pressure must be increased.

A radial tire will have the same contact patch on flat ground but has the ability to conform more to uneven trail features at the same air pressure.
 
#619 ·
Terrain and volume may as well be inextricably linked. In Utah, a 2.6 front tire can make a huge difference on all the square edge hits and weird off-camber rock transitions. Here in Oregon I find about 2.4 to be perfect fir the aforementioned precision. Does radial change that equation....? That's what I was trying to get at with my post several pages back and I'm curious to find out personally.
 
#620 ·
Suns_PSD said:
Not certain I buy it. On uneven terrain, sure. But physics says otherwise on flat terrain.


Technically, (ignore radial tires for a moment) any tire of any size will have the exact same contact patch (amount of rubber touching the ground) if they are set at the same pressure (assumes bike/ rider weight is the same). Problem is that a narrower tire at the same pressure will flatten more front to back, making it less 'round' and therefore it rolls slower. Next is that, smaller tires, everything else being equal, require more air pressure to stay off the rim. So, you can't really run a smaller tire at the same air pressure so it will in fact end up with less compliance and a smaller contact patch as air pressure must be increased.

A radial tire will have the same contact patch on flat ground but has the ability to conform more to uneven trail features at the same air pressure.
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I will never buy anything else. The grip is way better without question
 
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