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Most rims I've seen have a limit of 1100 to 1200 N. But it really depends on the rim. I probably wouldn't go beyond 1100 N without a specification.

Most important: make sure you have a well calibrated tension meter. Some cheap clones read seriously too low.
 
IME, do it with tires mounted and filled with air, tension drops significantly when you do this IME.
 
IME, do it with tires mounted and filled with air, tension drops significantly when you do this IME.
The tension drop is significant in the sense that it can easily be measured.

It's not common practice to put a tire on and off whilst wheel building.
Manufacturer recommendations are made for a wheel without a tire on it.

Equal tension is way more important that maxing out on the tension. Chances are that you over-tension when adjusting for the tire pressure. Is it relevant and cause any danger? Probably not, but I'm not a rim engineer :)
 
The tension drop is significant in the sense that it can easily be measured.

It's not common practice to put a tire on and off whilst wheel building.
Manufacturer recommendations are made for a wheel without a tire on it.

Equal tension is way more important that maxing out on the tension. Chances are that you over-tension when adjusting for the tire pressure. Is it relevant and cause any danger? Probably not, but I'm not a rim engineer :)
Measuring spoke tension before and after, this is not my finding at all, after going to normal tension w/o the tire, it is not safe to ride due to the tension drop. I also have to wonder if a lot of "re-truing" and "wind-up" issues are related to this. This is something that seems to be more prevalent on modern rims IME, comparing with older aluminum 26" ones that I built over the years. I have built with CF on something like 18 out of 19 wheels recently, so that's the majority of my experience.
 
Measuring spoke tension before and after, this is not my finding at all, after going to normal tension w/o the tire, it is not safe to ride due to the tension drop.
Not safe to ride? Could you back this up a little more?
Depending on the tire and pressure, the tension drops by maybe 200 N. I wouldn't know any wheel that collapses at 900 or 1000 N.

Please quote one manufacturer statement saying the recommended max tension applies to inflated tires and at what pressure and tire size before you spread misinformation.
 
Not safe to ride? Could you back this up a little more?
Depending on the tire and pressure, the tension drops by maybe 200 N. I wouldn't know any wheel that collapses at 900 or 1000 N.

Please quote one manufacturer statement saying the recommended tension applies to inflated tires and at what pressure and tire size before you spread misinformation.
It doesn't outright collapse, but so much detensioning that it causes excessive stress on the "hanging" spokes and throws the wheel pretty far out of true IME. I do see a safety concern, I've measured significantly more "detensioning" than that and given the way wheels work, spokes in tension, this would concentrate stress quickly and could lead to breakages IMO. The absolute worst case could be a collapse, but you'd probably break spoeks long before that. I never saw or noticed this with older wheels...but every single new one I make, yep. My theory is that modern tubeless tires are much tighter on the bead when inflated, rather than older tires that sat on the bead, but weren't relying on it to make a seal. You do you though, I'm just relaying my experience building and riding/racing on my wheels.
 
Measuring spoke tension before and after, this is not my finding at all, after going to normal tension w/o the tire, it is not safe to ride due to the tension drop. I also have to wonder if a lot of "re-truing" and "wind-up" issues are related to this. This is something that seems to be more prevalent on modern rims IME, comparing with older aluminum 26" ones that I built over the years. I have built with CF on something like 18 out of 19 wheels recently, so that's the majority of my experience.

No wheel manufacture recommends tensioning the wheel with the tire mounted and no reputable wheel builder I know of does that. I've built a lot of wheels and re-truing or re-tensioning is never necessary.
 
No wheel manufacture recommends tensioning the wheel with the tire mounted and no reputable wheel builder I know of does that. I've built a lot of wheels and re-truing or re-tensioning is never necessary.
You keep doing you.
 
I do see a safety concern, I've measured significantly more "detensioning" than that and given the way wheels work, spokes in tension, this would concentrate stress quickly and could lead to breakages IMO.
Safety concerns should be voiced by people who have done quantitative engineering of the problem, not by people who guess.

My theory is that modern tubeless tires are much tighter on the bead when inflated, rather than older tires that sat on the bead, but weren't relying on it to make a seal.
I don't know what you notice in newer an older wheels, but the tire-rim interface has not much to do with the compression of the rim. The width (or area) of the interface, in particular in modern wide rims, is very small compared to the overall width. That is by far more rim compression load is generated by the air pressure that acts directly on the rim tape.
 
Safety concerns should be voiced by people who have done quantitative engineering of the problem, not by people who guess.


I don't know what you notice in newer an older wheels, but the tire-rim interface has not much to do with the compression of the rim. The width (or area) of the interface, in particular in modern wide rims, is very small compared to the overall width. That is by far more rim compression load is generated by the air pressure that acts directly on the rim tape.
Like I said, you do you. I've built many wheels and raced them and don't seem to have a problem with wheel builds, so I'm confident that my methods work just fine.
 
Like I said, you do you. I've built many wheels and raced them and don't seem to have a problem with wheel builds, so I'm confident that my methods work just fine.
Who hasn't built their own wheels and raced them on MTBR?

I'm not trying to change your habits, I just oppose that this is what other people should be doing.
 
The great thing is I have MrWheeler blocked and can't see what he says.
 
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