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medelman

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm starting this thread because I want to share my experience going over this bike. I just picked one up and while there is some info out there, there's really not enough to make good decisions.

Yes, it is cheap, but there are two inexcusable things that really bugged me. First, in their stock photo they show a nice looking crankset. What they give you is useable, but it is stamped steel garbage. The other thing, which was almost enough for me to return it, was the photo shows a water bottle mount on the seat tube--there is NOT one.

On to the next pretty big issue--gearing. Yes, it has a freewheel. I knew that going in. If you're going to ride rail trails or small hills, it's fine. I live in the mountains, I needed to do something. You can mess with a new crankset or freewheel. Neither are super cheap. For freewheels there is a 14-34 option for about $22, or a 14-40 option for about $60. I opted for the 14-40 and don't have it yet, but can comment later.

Brakes. First, you absolutely have to bed them in. Don't go down a big hill and expect to stop your first ride. After bedding them in, they have decent stopping power. The pads squeak something awful. I took some cheap 2 piston deore style pads, ground off about 1/32" on the left/right side, and they fit/worked perfectly. I also tried putting a 200 disc and adapter on, it worked fine, but was almost too much stopping power so i switched back to the 160 rotors. I knew the brakes were going to be an issue, so i ordered some 2 moving piston mechanicals from aliexpress for $20 and will report back. Overall, the stock brakes are okay, the pads are not.

The seatpost/clamp are fine, but its such a cheap upgrade i replaced both.

I checked just about everything on the bike:

In the headset and wheel bearings there was grease, but it was about as thin as water. I added slightly thicker and more grease.

There was no grease on threads used in assembly, you might want to take stuff (like the bottom bracket) apart and grease the threads so you can get it off in a few years when it goes bad.

The spoke tension on the wheels was good. They were slightly out of true, but acceptable.

The front fork is NOT tapered, so upgrading to a carbon one later might be annoying.

The stock gearing is 30/46 and i believe 14-28.

As for sizing, i'm 5'11" and got the medium. It felt a little big, so I swapped the 80 (?) stem out for a 45 and it feels about right. A 60 still felt too big. Sizing will be subjective.

I've only put a few miles on it and my thoughts as of now: As a rail trail bike, it gets a 9/10. A commuter, probably a 7/10. An actual gravel bike, in its stock form, a 5/10.

The changes i'm making to make it a better gravel bike: brakes ($20), seat/post ($20--had the seat), freewheel ($60). So, that puts the bike at $350, a carbon fork might add $150 and save 3 lbs (that might come later). Do i think the bike is a good value? Yes. Will it reliably work as a good gravel bike? Maybe.

Has anyone else had experiences with this bike or made upgrades?
 
I'm starting this thread because I want to share my experience going over this bike. I just picked one up and while there is some info out there, there's really not enough to make good decisions.

Yes, it is cheap, but there are two inexcusable things that really bugged me. First, in their stock photo they show a nice looking crankset. What they give you is useable, but it is stamped steel garbage. The other thing, which was almost enough for me to return it, was the photo shows a water bottle mount on the seat tube--there is NOT one.

On to the next pretty big issue--gearing. Yes, it has a freewheel. I knew that going in. If you're going to ride rail trails or small hills, it's fine. I live in the mountains, I needed to do something. You can mess with a new crankset or freewheel. Neither are super cheap. For freewheels there is a 14-34 option for about $22, or a 14-40 option for about $60. I opted for the 14-40 and don't have it yet, but can comment later.

Brakes. First, you absolutely have to bed them in. Don't go down a big hill and expect to stop your first ride. After bedding them in, they have decent stopping power. The pads squeak something awful. I took some cheap 2 piston deore style pads, ground off about 1/32" on the left/right side, and they fit/worked perfectly. I also tried putting a 200 disc and adapter on, it worked fine, but was almost too much stopping power so i switched back to the 160 rotors. I knew the brakes were going to be an issue, so i ordered some 2 moving piston mechanicals from aliexpress for $20 and will report back. Overall, the stock brakes are okay, the pads are not.

The seatpost/clamp are fine, but its such a cheap upgrade i replaced both.

I checked just about everything on the bike:

In the headset and wheel bearings there was grease, but it was about as thin as water. I added slightly thicker and more grease.

There was no grease on threads used in assembly, you might want to take stuff (like the bottom bracket) apart and grease the threads so you can get it off in a few years when it goes bad.

The spoke tension on the wheels was good. They were slightly out of true, but acceptable.

The front fork is NOT tapered, so upgrading to a carbon one later might be annoying.

The stock gearing is 30/46 and i believe 14-28.

As for sizing, i'm 5'11" and got the medium. It felt a little big, so I swapped the 80 (?) stem out for a 45 and it feels about right. A 60 still felt too big. Sizing will be subjective.

I've only put a few miles on it and my thoughts as of now: As a rail trail bike, it gets a 9/10. A commuter, probably a 7/10. An actual gravel bike, in its stock form, a 5/10.

The changes i'm making to make it a better gravel bike: brakes ($20), seat/post ($20--had the seat), freewheel ($60). So, that puts the bike at $350, a carbon fork might add $150 and save 3 lbs (that might come later). Do i think the bike is a good value? Yes. Will it reliably work as a good gravel bike? Maybe.

Has anyone else had experiences with this bike or made upgrades?
I almost bought one on a whim but after reading, researching more, there were just too many compromises made to get it to such a low price point. Upgrades seemed impractical/too much work as opposed to starting with something slightly higher in spec.

Good luck with the mods. Please make some follow up posts.
 
When I got back into riding I bought a Walmart 29ER. I wanted to do a bunch of stuff to it but as went along I was reading up on bikes/repair etc. I would see these other guys riding nice bike and just said ONE DAY I will have a better bike. So from that first bike to now (11 years later) I have learned a lot of stuff and much more to learn about bikes. I would keep that one as is, read, youtube, all bike stuff info you can get, save some $ and as time goes on you will find a better bike within your budget. This is just the way I went about it. There is so much stuff about bicycles its like vehicles and can be a pricey hobby.
 
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Discussion starter · #6 ·
I almost bought one on a whim but after reading, researching more, there were just too many compromises made to get it to such a low price point. Upgrades seemed impractical/too much work as opposed to starting with something slightly higher in spec.

Good luck with the mods. Please make some follow up posts.
One of the reasons I went for it was that any gravel bikes under $2k didn't really impress me. Were they better than the ozark trail bike, yes. Were they that much better, no. Once i get the new freewheel i'll start riding it hard and see how it does. I also want to note there are a LOT of hills out here and 1x drivetrains dont impress me for road/trail riding. I'd prefer a 3x and go nice and slow up. The 2x was tolerable to me.
 
One of the reasons I went for it was that any gravel bikes under $2k didn't really impress me. Were they better than the ozark trail bike, yes. Were they that much better, no. Once i get the new freewheel i'll start riding it hard and see how it does. I also want to note there are a LOT of hills out here and 1x drivetrains dont impress me for road/trail riding. I'd prefer a 3x and go nice and slow up. The 2x was tolerable to me.
I am sure you will like the wider range of low gears on the cassette. Seems the 3 by was something I was used to also. The latest bike is 1x12 but I seem to be okay with it. On the 3by I mostly used 2 of the 3 all the time. Maybe the industry will change back to 2 or 3 by one day. Its like the 27.5 tires were a big thing and now I dont hear much about them just 26" and 29.
 
On to the next pretty big issue--gearing. Yes, it has a freewheel. I knew that going in. If you're going to ride rail trails or small hills, it's fine. I live in the mountains, I needed to do something. You can mess with a new crankset or freewheel. Neither are super cheap. For freewheels there is a 14-34 option for about $22, or a 14-40 option for about $60. I opted for the 14-40 and don't have it yet, but can comment later.



Has anyone else had experiences with this bike or made upgrades?
So it does, indeed, have an 8sp freewheel? I thought it did, but then it was said (here I think) that it was a freehub. You're confirming it's a freewheel?

It sounds similar to how my Boundary came. You should have a tapered head tube, but the fork's tube should be straight, with an adapter installed.

I've added the following:

1. Maxxis tires
2. Tektro M-535 4-pot brakes with 2.3mm thick rotors; 180mm front and 160mm rear
3. Suntour Nex25 fork with remote lockout
4. External bearing bottom bracket
6. Shimano Deore rear hub for the freehub, and added 40-11t rear cassette, turning it into an 8sp. I kept the clutch derailleur because it works.
7. Higher stem and bars
8. Bontrager saddle

It's only about 50% Schwinn Boundary, and much better than it was when I bought it.
 
Were they better than the ozark trail bike, yes. Were they that much better, no.
As you increase the price point, generally speaking, the most substantive changes/improvements are more difficult to see but they do make for important improvements, except for a handful of things like electronic shifting, dropper posts, hydraulic disc brakes.

You also encounter diminishing returns. So at lower prices, spending just a little bit more can get you MAJOR improvements. But at higher prices, spending the same amount more doesn't get you quite as much. So, comparing this Ozark Trail bike to a $2k bike absolutely will get you substantial improvements. Moreso than increasing from $2k to $4k.

Is it a functional bike? Sure it is. Just don't pretend it's something it isn't.
 
One of the reasons I went for it was that any gravel bikes under $2k didn't really impress me. Were they better than the ozark trail bike, yes. Were they that much better, no.
For ~$1,500 you get thru axles, proper tubeless ready wheels and tires, full sram or shimano drivetrains, etc. Not even in the same realm as the Ozark Trail.
 
Most of the "better" features on new $1500+ bikes hold little value for me. I couldn't care less about thru axles, or boost spacing, 4-piston brakes, tapered head tubes, or tubeless ready rims.....especially on a quazi road bike.

I actually went out of my way to buy a bike with 135/100 QR wheels for road and easy trail riding, and they work fine, as does the 3x8 drivetrain on it. Freewheels still work fine too. I wouldn't be concerned about a bike having one. I rode/raced with them for years without a single failure.

Overall, I view the Ozark Trail bikes as an incredible value for recreational riders, and a breath of fresh air in the industry. I would own one if they were available at the time I was shopping for a bike, and I may still buy one if for no other reason than to support what they're doing.


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Freewheels still work fine too. I wouldn't be concerned about a bike having one. I rode/raced with them for years without a single failure.
Same here. Back in the 5/6/7 speed era with plenty of great quality freewheel hubs being produced they were excellent and as you say, trouble-free. Even back then though (early 80's) cheap freewheel hubs were constant sources of failure, bent axles and chewed up cones and races were daily repairs in the shop.

Now nearly all freewheel hubs produced are low quality with cheap steel and poor tolerances. 8 and more speed cassettes exacerbate the bent axle problem due to the longer, unsupported portion of the axle between the race and the locknut. You don't have to believe me and I'm guessing you won't but if you worked in a shop for any length of time you would never recommend freewheel hubs to anyone planning mountain biking or using their bike on a daily basis.
 
Most of the "better" features on new $1500+ bikes hold little value for me. I couldn't care less about thru axles, or boost spacing, 4-piston brakes, tapered head tubes, or tubeless ready rims.....especially on a quazi road bike.

I actually went out of my way to buy a bike with 135/100 QR wheels for road and easy trail riding, and they work fine, as does the 3x8 drivetrain on it. Freewheels still work fine too. I wouldn't be concerned about a bike having one. I rode/raced with them for years without a single failure.

Overall, I view the Ozark Trail bikes as an incredible value for recreational riders, and a breath of fresh air in the industry. I would own one if they were available at the time I was shopping for a bike, and I may still buy one if for no other reason than to support what they're doing.


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Obviously not written by a “cyclist.” :ROFLMAO:
=sParty
 
For ~$1,500 you get thru axles, proper tubeless ready wheels and tires, full sram or shimano drivetrains, etc. Not even in the same realm as the Ozark Trail.
I was at my LBS the other day and he had a Marin DSX 3 on sale for $1,500 and I was honestly shocked by the quality/overall offering for the price point. If it had been in my size I might have walked out of there with it even though I don't need a new gravel bike and didn't walk in to buy one.
 
Much better connection when using disc brakes Also more quality options for 142mm thru axle hubs and also more drivetrain options.
There’s been decades of discussion about the potential dangers of predominantly vertical drop-outs when used with disc brakes. Ironically, the undesirable leverage is increased with greater wheel-diameter-to-rotor-diameter ratios (read: bigger wheels with smaller rotors). The well-laid out arguments of James Annan and Jobst Brandt helped drive the industry away from dropouts and toward thru-axles.


This hazard was a central argument in a very public and widely-reported lawsuit against Rad Power Bikes by the parents of Molly Steinsapir.


I'm honestly not understanding the "much better connection when using disc brakes" thing. You've mentioned before alignment, but I never have to realign the brakes when I take the wheel off. I don't swap rims between bikes.

With lawyer lips, the axle isn't going to dislodge under braking, especially if you bolt the axle in and torque properly instead of using QR skewers.

As far as 142mm spacing: Yes, if that's what you need. But is that needed for these bikes' intended purposes? Additionally, 7, 8, and 9 speed seem, from what I've read here, to be less sensitive to tuning than 10 and up.

The Ozark Trail seems to have specs very similar to the Talon 4, but for less money. The only issue I'd have with the OT would be the freewheel (if it indeed has a freewheel; there are conflicting reports.)

Comparing the OT to a $1500 Trek, Specialized, etc, is like comparing a Jeep Cherokee to a military Humvee: They have very different missions. The Cherokee was built around snow and light trails. The Humvee is for much tougher terrain, and it's not meant to be a daily driver. The Cherokee is.
 
He got it as a gravel bike. How are through axles superior in this role?
There’s been decades of discussion about the potential dangers of predominantly vertical drop-outs when used with disc brakes. Ironically, the undesirable leverage is increased with greater wheel-diameter-to-rotor-diameter ratios (read: bigger wheels with smaller rotors). The well-laid out arguments of James Annan and Jobst Brandt helped drive the industry away from dropouts and toward thru-axles.

This hazard was a central argument in a very public and widely-reported lawsuit against Rad Power Bikes by the parents of Molly Steinsapir.
 
How good does a gravel bike hub really need to be? I put 5000 miles on the entry level QR formula hubs that were on my last gravel-country bike, and had zero issues with them. The same can't be said for the 12-speed Sram drivetrain. The Altus 8spd on my current bike is so much better.

In a gravel or XC application, I see exactly zero need for thru axles or wider hub spacing.


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