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Life expectancy of a bike for a big rider?

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Pasta4lnch

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey all - trying to be proactive with my setup. I'm a big guy, 350ish lbs - I have a Growler fat bike. 7005 aluminum frame, Sunringle wheels, sram gx eagle drivetrain. Not sure of the axles.

I've had this since 2020. Rode it pretty hard until last year (trails - no jumps, occasional pavement) - work got in the way, but I'm back at it. Should I be proactive with replacing any parts? Am I getting close to any lifespans? The only thing I've replaced since I got the bike was the bottom bracket. I check the spokes often and take it in once a year for a lube/inspection etc.

I'm paranoid of a catastrophic failure that ends riding for me.
 
#2 ·
Fork should be serviced annually, and all bearings and chain should be checked for wear at the same time. If your chain is too worn it will manifest as bad shifting long before it breaks on you, but you can grab a chain checker tool and keep an eye on it yourself to make sure you're not running a worn/stretch chain and wearing down your cassette.

Tires obviously.
 
#3 ·
I'm a similar-sized boy.

Framesets are generally massively overbuilt for insurance reasons. The exceptions are 'weight weenie gram-counting road race bikes' - which your Growler is not by any stretch. And that parts build is made for long-term reliability, not 'race day' speed at the expense of strength. You can chill.

Very few failures are catastrophic. Maybe if you had a carbon steerer tube, and you tightened the hell out of everything attached to it heedless of specs, and constantly ran it with no preload on the headset or over 1" of spacers below the stem. Or, maybe if you had carbon handlebars that you've constantly smashed against rocks and then did regular hucks to flat. Otherwise, with your weight and decent power output, you'll snap a bunch of spokes, or maybe a chain, long before something threatening happens.

Just use your torque wrench and set it all up to spec to prevent 99% of issues. Also check for cracks every few months, mostly the frame near the tube junctures, but also bars next to the stem, and cranks near the pedals.

I replaced a stem once after I noticed a small crack and 'stretch' discoloration on the faceplate. I've swapped out handlebars after 6-8 years of hard riding and a few crashes, but nothing else proactively.
 
#4 ·
Cranks
Wheel hubs
Spokes
Saddles

All common failure parts but all have proven solutions not to fail. Educate yourself (search) on what parts above are Clydesdale-ready.
For for drivetrain, GX is great performing but for larger riders suffers from less than ideal life expectancy. If running GX chain and cassette, constantly check the chain every 2-3 rides once you have around 400-500 miles. Gets old replacing the cassette because I waited too long to replace the chain. Eventually moving to a X01 chain, cassette will give bit more buffer.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thanks all - I have the bike in for a yearly service. New chain. They recommended to start thinking about new handle bars and seat post. I will likely do that in the coming months...

As for the GX it's been ok so far. It looks like it was starting to wear but the bike shop said it looked ok, as were my brakes. I definitely clean it w a brush before most rides and check the spokes.

My last bike had slipping gears which I swear was worse than crashing, lol, so I'm hyper aware of anything happening different w the dive train. Thats how I noticed the broken bottom bracket.

And good call on the torque wrench. I have been known to over tighten a thing or two...:cool:

Thanks again for all the info!
 
#6 ·
In addition to a torque wrench…if you’re dabbling with DIY maintenance and you’re experiencing any shifting issues, it would be worth picking up a derailleur hanger alignment tool.

I got one recently after seeing a bunch of feedback about them here. For the cost (a nice one from Park is only $43), it’ll pay for itself sooner, rather than later.
 
#8 ·
My recommendations for a handlebar and seat post: Thomson seat post (Masterpiece or Elite) and Renthal Fat Bars.

First components which fail for me on a spec' bike: rear hub, then BB, then HS. Most rear hubs wont tolerate me and die within 10 rides (freehub or free body gives out). BB will often squeak, creak, and then throw a bearing, and headsets will eventually creak and then wobble back-in-forth when fastened (bearings/races are toasted).

The only handlebars I've failed are Titec Titanium bars (came standard on my '96 GT LTS Team) and my wife has failed cf bars and seat posts. I have never failed a seat post but a new $150 seat post is better than a trip to the ER and subsequent follow up visits to your proctologist or urologist.
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
bingemtbr said:
My recommendations for a handlebar and seat post: Thomson seat post (Masterpiece or Elite) and Renthal Fat Bars.

First components which fail for me on a spec' bike: rear hub, then BB, then HS. Most rear hubs wont tolerate me and die within 10 rides (freehub or free body gives out). BB will often squeak, creak, and then throw a bearing, and headsets will eventually creak and then wobble back-in-forth when fastened (bearings/races are toasted).

The only handlebars I've failed are Titec Titanium bars (came standard on my '96 GT LTS Team) and my wife has failed cf bars and seat posts. I have never failed a seat post but a new $150 seat post is better than a trip to the ER and subsequent follow up visits to your proctologist or urologist.
Click to expand...
Sage advice! Certainly dont want to be visiting my proctologist! ;)

I like those Renthal bars - I was actually looking at the Deity High Rise which appear to be very similar, but in 6000 series aluminum.

I hear a lot of big riders talk about the rear hub. According to my LBS mine is ok. Are there non-obvious signs of wear? What would be a good replacement?

Thanks again for all the info!!
 
#10 ·
I used to be a destroyer of parts, but thankfully bikes have come a long way in 15 years. I used to average a broken part a ride.

Thankfully stuff is much stronger than it used to be. This over build craze is useful.

However in the last week I've cracked 1 crank, two pedals, two rear spokes, had to rebuild a front wheel. Both BB bearings are shot, and I also blew a glide ring off the shock valve damaging the valve on the way past.

That was not a normal week, it was an AWESOME one!

I'm slightly getting off track, in all these years of cracking metal I've never had a crash due to it.

Just check your bike over periodically for cracks and buy strong parts.

We can both put an amount of torque down that will horrify bike designers, so checking around the BB area is a good idea.

As for hubs, it's normally the ratchet system that fails. It'll feel like your chain is slipping and then the hub might jam.

I got so good at rebuilding rear hubs that I once stripped one at 4000m, removed the broken metal and bodged it to keep going using nothing but a rock and swearing.
 
#11 ·
I have a Growler American Stout and it is a really nice American made aluminum frame. Things I've found to be most problematic for big fellas are rear hubs and wheelsets holding up, and bottom brackets. I've settled on X01 mostly across the board for longevity, not for weight...and knock on wood I've had great luck. I've also found 197mm rear hubs might have a higher failure rate, but nothing catastrophic.

With that being said I have also switched to the multiple chain methodology. Rotating between two chains (I might get a third) throughout the year to help increase the life of the drivetrain.

If you are looking to make an investment I would propose a 29+ wheelset with 29x3" tires. DTSwiss hubs and 45-50mm rims would last you a long time.
 
#13 ·
In the days of non dropper posts I have failed seat posts. They have all failed safe and many times failed due to the seat rail failing.

I have failed handle bars in a non safe way. Now I will replace bars if I get a deep scratch.
 
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