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My Cannondale came with the Code Rs. I also found them to be spongy and to perform poorly when compared to the Shimanos on my other bike. But I was able to solve the problem. It's a process though..

First... I remove the Sram brakes from the bike....
Next - and this step is the most important - I throw them in the garbage where they belong.
Finally, I install Shimano XTs and all is right in the universe once more...
 
Weird, just bleed some on a new bike with code R's(lever was swapped with RSC).. Customer is hugely stoked and told me they slow him way better than Any shimano brake he's ran.
He was a huge shimano fan for years, same as i was - Finally got my wits and learned how to bleed Code's And man i've been missing out on brake efficiency.

People always assume braking to a stop is best, which shimano's do well with their easy to lock nature however We dont stop every time we brake...
 
Quick update: took the bike to the shop that I bought it from and was told that's just how SRAM brakes feel and a bleed wouldn't help. My buddy bought the same bike so will have to try his out to see if they feel the same.

Maybe my expectations have increased and I'm typically not picky about brakes but these feel like the worst brakes I've owned -- even had Avid BB5's back in the day.

The mechanic said he runs Maguras but am thinking I'll switch to Shimanos. I didn't really want to put more $ into the bike since it's new, but if I plan to keep it for a while it seems like a worthwhile upgrade.
You know how Sram got into the brake business? They bought Avid.
 
My Cannondale came with the Code Rs. I also found them to be spongy and to perform poorly when compared to the Shimanos on my other bike. But I was able to solve the problem. It's a process though..

First... I remove the Sram brakes from the bike....
Next - and this step is the most important - I throw them in the garbage where they belong.
Finally, I install Shimano XTs and all is right in the universe once more...
…. until they start weeping fluid out the piston seals. Then you buy a new set because they’re disposable.


Honestly I installed Code Silver Stealths a few months ago, they feel incredible in comparison to the XT I’ve got. They make the Shimanos feel like what I imagine Aliexpress brakes would feel like. Lever is firmer than the XT ever were. Lever stays consistent too, As the pads wear with Shimano it seems the bite point moves in as the pistons don’t advance. Don’t ride them for a month and they’ve got no power. Bleeding Sram is better too, sealed and contained in syringes. Instead of an open cup, then you knock the bars and it sloshes everywhere. Pull a vacuum at the lever with SRAM, instead of flicking the lever for 15 mins at multiple angles to get bubbles out.

Posts like this pushed me towards Shimano and it’s rubbish.
 
Got SRAM Code R rather than Shimano’s due to parts shortages. Really did not like them at first but I got used to them and I am impressed with their power. They are confidence inspiring.

Still prefer Shimano XTs overall, especially the shape of their levers (I have small hands).
 
Yeah, it takes a hot minute to figure out how to properly bleed SRAM brakes, prolly Shimano as well but I have no experience with 'em. But once sorted, my all SRAM brakes have been great (2 piston Guides, 4 piston Guides, and Codes). I suspect ppl complaining about Shimanos not performing properly had brakes in need of some basic maintenance, cuz from all i've read, they are decently good brakes.

When compared to cars or motorcycles, bike brakes have practically no brake fluid reservoir, so there is almost no margin of error when bleeding and setting up the brakes. So regardless of your preferred brand, learning how to or finding a mechanic that can properly bleed and setup the brakes is imperative to achieve design performance. yup
 
I have three sets of Guise R's and I have put lever kits through all of them, they all bleed up nicely. the only spongy brakes I have are some older deore brakes, but I assume a bleed will fix them.
 
Yeah I’m a liar because you haven’t experienced it
Yes, rupturing the diaphragm in the lever.
Hey bro, I know that you have now removed this liar part after you posted, but I saw it. I don’t know when you deleted it though.

Just because I have not experienced your problems, does not in any way insinuate, imply or suggest that you are a liar. I might think that you are a few other things for the stupid statement, but not a liar.

Relax
 
Hey bro, I know that you have now removed this liar part after you posted, but I saw it. I don’t know when you deleted it though.

Just because I have not experienced your problems, does not in any way insinuate, imply or suggest that you are a liar. I might think that you are a few other things for the stupid statement, but not a liar.

Relax
Sorry, It came across a bit condescending. Think it was because I’d just woke up, that’s why I removed it pretty much straight away.
 
Many here are mixing up R and RSC
Codes are not created equal.
R are the worst brakes ever, you can bleed them in the most perfect way, you can use mtx, change rotors, perfect bedding, ... they will always suck, no matter what. After a season of every possible test, perfect bleeds, ... and after the first 20 minutes in the bike park like "oh, now they are ok", they get back to be just crap.
R are good only for the trash bin.

RSC (on a second bike) are a different beast, they actually brake, they are consistent, no need to bleed every two bike park rides, no grabbing like crazy to slow down, no resemblance of death wish when using them.
I am pretty sure they are built differently inside, it is not possible they are the same brakes with the additional bite point set up only, no way

I understand anyone using RSC for DH, but I will never understand anyone giving over a mediocre vote to the R, outside cross country usage.
 
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