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#581 ·
My GX transmission group doesn't have this issue thankfully but funny enough I recently swapped out my Shimano SLX cass on my other bike and getting some minor chain skip in the 3rd gear. Think I know which tooth is causing the issue maybe I will try and file it down, wondering if Sram and Shimano are using the same place to produce their cass's and need better QC!
 
#584 ·
Didzy2009 said:
I can’t tell if my gx mech has suddenly become loud - I’m sure it was near silent when I got it but now with hard hits I’m getting some horrid sounds and it’s definitely chain slap related or something moving like the mech, on repeated hard hits it’s like a thud or knock sounds quite bad

im tempted to try shimano again - has anyone come from shimano to this and can verify it’s quieter than transmission?

now the grounds drying up here in the uk it’s becoming more apparent as im riding faster and hit stuff faster with more repeater hard hits - the soft ground now drying up and mech is from what I can tell/hear taking more a hit because of this - it’s quite off putting
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I confirm GX T-Type is suffering from bad chain slap noises due to a weak clutch. The cage is making a massive clunk noise when it's coming back in place.

The actual derailleur is not flopping like previous gen AXS and the force required to generate the slap noise is higher than previous AXS, but this is far from being a silent drivetrain unfortunately...can't believe SRAM didn't fix their clutch / noise issues.

Not sure if XX/X0 are more silent as the clutch mechanism seems different with a lighter cage, but I would skip regular AXS and Transmission if you care about a silent bike.

I already miss X01 mechanical from my previous bike to be honest, I'm out of this AXS noisy mess for good even if they come out with a new gen again.
 
#585 ·
The force needed to move my GX T type der cage is greater than the Shimano SLX on another bike. I do think the one step required to pull back on the cage and take up chain slack before tightening the der is critical but kind of rudimentary, also if the knurled horned nut thingy has slipped forward the whole der body moves and there will be less chain tension.

They should also prioritize shifting performance over shifting under load seems to be a common complaint, has anyone tried a T type der with a regular Sram or Shimano cass? I really like the idea of the solid der/frame connection of this system and not having to adjust or setup the der.
 
#586 ·
Redlemon said:
Not sure if XX/X0 are more silent as the clutch mechanism seems different with a lighter cage, but I would skip regular AXS and Transmission if you care about a silent bike.

I already miss X01 mechanical from my previous bike to be honest, I'm out of this AXS noisy mess for good even if they come out with a new gen again.
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I have something to say here.
I am riding my wife's new bike these days. It has X01 Eagle on it, and the clutch is pretty mediocre on it compared to Transmission. It doesn't even have a lock lever like Shimano does, so it's all over the place when riding through rought terrain.
Also, from my own experience, Transmission is noisy when pedaling and mechanical is extremely noisy when shifting (and the shifters are SO damn loud it's off the charts - I miss Shimano here), so there is something to each system.
 
#587 · (Edited)
I just installed GX T -type on my 2022 stumpjumper evo last night. I'm not a mechanic but have the correct tools and followed SRAMs instructions. I get skipping in, I'm not sure which gear. But I have to change twice then go up one to get the gear I want. This is EXACTLY the problem I was having with my original mechanical GX and was one of the reasons I wanted to change to T-Type, because I thought it would eliminate problems like this. I took it home after a quick test ride, and re did the derailleur again. It seemed better after that. It seems to be very dependant on the thru axle and derailleur torque. But after that first ride I got a flat halfway so now I need to pull the rear wheel off, but I figure I'm going to have to re torque everything again everytime I take the rear wheel off..?

So they didn't make an 'adjustment free' derailleur, they just changed how you have to adjust it! Instead of adjusting a b screw you have to have a super accurate torque wrench, hope your thru axle doesn't come loose, and **** around with micro adjustments and you MIGHT get something that isn't a skipping mess.

I will reserve final judgement but initial impression is I wish I did a bit more research, ie found this thread first!

EDIT

OK so after a proper test ride, and having torqued everything down to spec it actually shifts great now. I think I still need to adjust the micro adjust things it's currently on 8, but I did all that when I was trying to get it to work when I hadn't set it up properly.

I think the reason so many people have problems is that, you watch a video and they make it look so easy, and because you spent so much on the groupset people try to DIY it rather than pay a shop to do it. Personally there is no reputable shop where I am so I had no choice but to DIY.

The main point is that it's very important to set the torque correctly! Both the Derailleur and the thru axle.
 
#588 ·
Just Me in AZ said:
I will say what I say to all my local friends that have problems with Transmission installs on their DIY installs... find a local bike shop that has experience installing these and take to them and have them do the install from scratch. There is something in the install that the instructions are missing and a seasoned mechanic can do without even thinking (experience) and fixes the issues.

Mine had the exact issues with my DIY install, and I consider myself a pretty good mechanic, and it drove me nuts. Took it to one of my LBS and the mechanic there pretty much removed it and did it again and on the first shot had it smooth as butter. Once I asked him what he had done he said "I have no idea. These things are super fickle and they just require a smooth install." BTW, his settings were exactly the same as mine so it was the the tension and the method of install that made the difference. I asked how much he wanted and he "No charge." I gave him a nice generous tip.
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OK cool but what happens when you remove your rear wheel and it throws the torque out?
 
#590 ·
Octopuss said:
The skipping I am experiencing myself is only on one and a little bit on another cog, which leads me to believe cassette manufacturing tolerances are the biggest problem here. If the setup itself was at fault, the entire cassette would skip and shift badly, wouldn't it?
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Not necessarily, those issues are usually caused by b screw alignment issues, which with transmision is due to torque and tension during seutp.
 
#591 ·
Removing the axle should not effect the der I've done it on the stand several times, yes I torqued it down but I imagine if you get it nice and tight on the trail then check torque when you get home should be fine.

I agree tho the torque on the der/chain tension step is critical, and making sure the marks are lined up. I think the skipping issue is a problem with some cass's tho
 
#593 ·
Is anyone running Transmission with Race Face cranks and bottom bracket? I'm thinking about buying Era cranks for my bike as well (I'm jealous of my wife who has them on her bike), but mixing two systems is pretty confusing. I presume the spindle length will actually be very similar to the DUB wide cranks, both having almost identical Q-factor, so I wouldn't have to do any specific spacer voodoo to end up with the correct chainline (assuming I have the correct offset chainring, 3mm in this case I believe).
 
#594 ·
Octopuss said:
Is anyone running Transmission with Race Face cranks and bottom bracket? I'm thinking about buying Era cranks for my bike as well (I'm jealous of my wife who has them on her bike), but mixing two systems is pretty confusing. I presume the spindle length will actually be very similar to the DUB wide cranks, both having almost identical Q-factor, so I wouldn't have to do any specific spacer voodoo to end up with the correct chainline (assuming I have the correct offset chainring, 3mm in this case I believe).
Click to expand...

As long as it has the correct 55mm chainline and a T-type compatible chainring you're good to go.
 
#595 ·
rdharste said:
Keep sending it in for warranty until the problem is fixed. SRAM should be sending you new components if you continue to have problems. I had a ticking in gear 9. A new derailleur from SRAM seemed to solve this and other issues.
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I am glad I listened!
3 weeks later and I have finally received news from the eshop. The distributor (or whoever they sent it to for evaluation) accepted the warranty claim and is sending a new derailleur.

Now that doesn't mean it will solve my problems, BUT apparently there was something wrong with it after all (unless there is a major design flaw somewhere and SRAM is eventually replacing anything no questions asked).
 
#596 ·
Quick ride to the repair shop on the XX cranks.
The horrible noise on 9th gear is gone. Mostly. I think.

I guess there is hope after all. Now I can start experimenting further. The cranks are not particularly pretty or light, but at least I seem to have a baseline I can revert to.
 
#597 ·
Already getting very tired of my GX T-Type chain slap, this thing is loud and getting on my nerves. Youtuber Vancan took his off his bike after a few rides because of that and 100% understand him now.

Can anyone confirm if X0/XX/XX SL are slapping on harder hits?

I'm starting to think that the clutch is not able to cope with the heavier GX steel cage so a cage assembly swap might fix the issue.
 
#598 ·
I am not experiencing anything like that on X0 (but I did have GX before), but then
1) my frame has really thick and well thought out chainstay protection
2) the most serious stuff I have ridden with Transmission thus far was riding really fast down some broken trail with stones and big holes; I don't do drops.
 
#599 ·
J.B. Weld said:
As long as it has the correct 55mm chainline and a T-type compatible chainring you're good to go.
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My wife and I converted to XO last fall, keeping our XX1 cranks and using Wolf Tooth DropStop-B oval chainrings with 3 mm offset to maintain the 55 mm chain line.

It was good at first but mine developed the dreaded chain jumping in 3rd. It seemed to require a little wear before the jumping appeared and it got worse with time. After several trips to the shop this spring, I did a bunch of measuring on our two identical Top Fuels, which led me to find mine was missing a 5 mm spacer, giving me a 50 mm chain line. The bike was a 2022 COVID era build, so who knows whether the spacer was omitted by Trek or lost by my LBS at last fall’s transmission conversion?

Adding the spacer cured the 3rd gear jumping, but shifting on both bikes had still degraded since last fall, or so it seemed. There’s a learning curve, or should I say an unlearning curve. You gradually ditch your instinct to soft pedal while shifting, so maybe that was part of the degradation? It at least contributed to noisy shifts.

The LBS engaged their SRAM rep, who dialed an engineer into a call. He said they found ovals just don’t work well with Transmission. I reluctantly sold off the XX1 cranks to go full T-type, XX cranks and round SRAM chainrings. With everything SRAM there could be no debate over responsibilty for problems. Both shift perfectly now. Neither my LBS nor I can visualize why an oval would matter, but it apparently does. For me, the oval was just an experiment anyway.

I’ve adapted to lighten up moderately to shift. While it WILL always shift under heavy load, it can sometimes sound crunchy, probably depending on the cassette position. Shifts are consistently silent with a moderate reduction in torque. I don’t think we can expect silent shifts under full load with any system.
 
#600 ·
Redlemon said:
Already getting very tired of my GX T-Type chain slap, this thing is loud and getting on my nerves. Youtuber Vancan took his off his bike after a few rides because of that and 100% understand him now.

Can anyone confirm if X0/XX/XX SL are slapping on harder hits?

I'm starting to think that the clutch is not able to cope with the heavier GX steel cage so a cage assembly swap might fix the issue.
Click to expand...
I’ve ditched it and gone to xt full groupo - no regrets at all it shifts better faster and smoother and it’s got far far far far less chainslap with the clutch on
 
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