I have a DVO Diamond D2 and set it to the spec in the book. Having ridden BMX for half my life and switching to MTB, I'm a bit lost as far as what the suspension is supposed to do when riding and how I should judge it's performance. I know i still act as a shock on my hardtail, but what should the forks react to? How should they be on trails? It may be a stupid question but if i've ridden a bike with front suspension in the past i just used it as is and didn't really think much on it. When watching videos on youtube most of the people use their entire range of suspension and sometimes i even wait for the forks to bottom out and smash, but they never do. I'd like to setup my suspension properly this season instead of just making do with how it's been setup.
What does a PROPER front fork setup ride like?
StayVigilant35
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Nah, most Fox 36's are 2.1-2.2kg. GRIP/GRIP2 forks are significantly heavier than FIT4.
Thanks for the correction. I have a fit4 27.5 that's sub 2kg. I didn't realize they had gained that much more weight.
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I should've weighed it once I chopped the steerer 🤣 It will have been close. Think the stanchions are 37mm though.
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When I had a Diamond, I tried everything to get it to be smoother/less spikey. I sent it back, I tried adjusting the adjusters in all sorts of combinations and so on. I was replacing a Pike and hoping that I'd end up with something better, but in reality, it was significantly heavier and worked no better, worse actually. Tried it here, tried it in Colorado, tried it in AZ, it just never sucked up square edged hits well or in a controlled way.
LSC should be doing a lot of the work there. IMO unless you're very light weight if opening your compression damper as much as possible makes it feel better there's something wrong.
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Indeed. If you can't ride with LSC closed then your damper tune is wrong.
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Very nice theory. How ever in almost all off-road suspension systems this is simply not true in practise.
This is easily detectable when measuring travel usage with clickers open (or very light damping) vs clickers in appropriate position (or proper damping).
No damping causes travel to overshoot due to momentum, whether it be wheel coming up, or chassis going down.
Deeper settled height occurs (after overshoot) because of friction, and inertia.
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Your comment does not relate to @JMLAD post at all.
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It does. You just do not comprehend.
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Wrong way around.
@JMLAD is talking about steady state ride height and you're waffling about travel useage.
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What is steady state ride height? Sag?
On a vehicle with suspension the ride height is directly related to travel usage.
Not true, a good tune will put you in the middle of the range.
If your LSC is completely closed, your damper tune is wrong.
If my SAG is in the 15% range at my weight with my current forks, does that tell me that it’ll support me through the full stroke? If I were to get say a fox 38 grip x2 and got in the 15-20% will that fork then be “working for me”?
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Did that sound correct in your head before you posted it?
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Last time you tried to talk about suspension you didn't know what a damper did and what a spring did. Can you tell us now?
Nah, sag on an air fork depends almost entirely on negative air effects at the top of the travel and suspension performance is determined by midstroke spring-rate.
The correlation is loose at best and shouldn't be relied on as more than the roughest of starting points.
Last time you tried to show off your “knowledge” you didn't know the difference between stock and a tuned fork. Go learn the difference and get back to us once you figure it out.
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Before this thread goes down hill any further (I thought SilentMTB put Dougal on ignore, apparently not. Lol)?
Maybe a more practical option would be to ride what you have. Focus on getting in shape, getting faster and then after you loose the weight in a few months, reevaluate what fork you want.
Maybe a more practical option would be to ride what you have. Focus on getting in shape, getting faster and then after you loose the weight in a few months, reevaluate what fork you want.
I would say 15% at your weight is too soft. You portably need to be close to nothing to have mid stroke support and avoid bottoming excessively. I'm 150lbs and probably run 5% sag if even that. Sag is important for the rear shock because it's relevant to the suspension design. That's not the case for a fork. It's totally fine to have next to nothing if that's what the rider needs. Pump your fork up so it barely sags and see what you think. You'll likely need to run rebound nearly closed to not have a pogo stick.
Why should I? If he has problems with my posts, he can put me on his ignore list.
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