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Manitou Mezzer: Owners Thread [Setup & Tech]

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#3,121 ·
MrRiser said:
Has anyone had issues with their top caps coming loose? I've been getting some pretty bad creaking lately and it seems after every ride, the top caps have loosened off.

Torqued to 25nm last Saturday. 35 miles later, I got probably an 8th of a turn on the air side
Click to expand...
m
How old is your fork?

sounds as if the stanchions are migrating and are not at final position yet…?

warranty maybe.
 
#3,124 ·
MrRiser said:
Has anyone had issues with their top caps coming loose? I've been getting some pretty bad creaking lately and it seems after every ride, the top caps have loosened off.

Torqued to 25nm last Saturday. 35 miles later, I got probably an 8th of a turn on the air side and nearly 1/4 turn on the damper side before the torque wrench clicked!

I had Torqued them up a few backs back as well after a bit of a clean and re grease.
Click to expand...
Are the stanchions fully pressed?
 
#3,126 ·
Another question from me today.



Seeing as I was hiding from the Inlaws in the garage today, thought I'd pull the damper apart, check everything over and give it some fresh oil.



When I took it all apart, it looks like I might have reassembled it incorrectly when I removed the 17.5mm shim.

Top picture shows the order I removed the shims from my damper, bottom pic is from the teardown in the first post.

Image

Image

It confused me at first (hence the ? drawn on the paper towel), I thought I was missing the small shim/ washer from the underside of the wavy spring but it looks as though that small shim was actually underneath the backer cup.

Aside from me being an idiot, I'm wondering what issues this might have caused?

Looks like witness marks on the remaining 17.5mm shim caused by the other shim being in the wrong place?

Fork hasn't felt terrible so anyone know what sort of characteristics this would have created?
 
#3,127 ·
MrRiser said:
Another question from me today.



Seeing as I was hiding from the Inlaws in the garage today, thought I'd pull the damper apart, check everything over and give it some fresh oil.



When I took it all apart, it looks like I might have reassembled it incorrectly when I removed the 17.5mm shim.

Top picture shows the order I removed the shims from my damper, bottom pic is from the teardown in the first post.

View attachment 2093429
View attachment 2093428
It confused me at first (hence the ? drawn on the paper towel), I thought I was missing the small shim/ washer from the underside of the wavy spring but it looks as though that small shim was actually underneath the backer cup.

Aside from me being an idiot, I'm wondering what issues this might have caused?

Looks like witness marks on the remaining 17.5mm shim caused by the other shim being in the wrong place?

Fork hasn't felt terrible so anyone know what sort of characteristics this would have created?
Click to expand...
Hah. Pulled mine apart earlier today. Everything came out mixed up but it was pretty straightforward to arrange back together.

Wave spring has a washer by each side to protect soft aluminum parts. Your lower washer was placed below the preload cup instead of above it.

Effects are likely minimal because wave spring preload is the same and your stack won’t interact with it if HSC is fully open. However, this cup is designed to push on the outer edge of shimstack and has a raised lip to do so. If that misplaced shim had enough thickness it could prevent the lip from reaching outer edge of the stack. If so, your HSC setting would not work as intended but i don’t think that shim is thick enough to interfere.

Nothing crazy here as you can see.


As for stanchions: just unscrew the topcap and look at the area above the thread. There is o-ring groove and the stanchion ends right above it. This joint is where the stanchion stops against a little rim inside the crown. When your topcap is snug it helps to retain these parts relative to each other. There are cases of a leg “walking back” out of the crown slowly after prolonged riding with topcap undone. Your symptoms raise some suspicion so yeah, check that there is no gap inside the crown.
 
#3,129 ·
Sapkovskymtb said:
Hah. Pulled mine apart earlier today. Everything came out mixed up but it was pretty straightforward to arrange back together.

Wave spring has a washer by each side to protect soft aluminum parts. Your lower washer was placed below the preload cup instead of above it.

Effects are likely minimal because wave spring preload is the same and your stack won’t interact with it if HSC is fully open. However, this cup is designed to push on the outer edge of shimstack and has a raised lip to do so. If that misplaced shim had enough thickness it could prevent the lip from reaching outer edge of the stack. If so, your HSC setting would not work as intended but i don’t think that shim is thick enough to interfere.

Nothing crazy here as you can see.


As for stanchions: just unscrew the topcap and look at the area above the thread. There is o-ring groove and the stanchion ends right above it. This joint is where the stanchion stops against a little rim inside the crown. When your topcap is snug it helps to retain these parts relative to each other. There are cases of a leg “walking back” out of the crown slowly after prolonged riding with topcap undone. Your symptoms raise some suspicion so yeah, check that there is no gap inside the crown.
Click to expand...
Cool, thank you.

I'll remove the top caps and check inside the crown.

On the damper thing, yeah I run HSC fully open so I guess from what you've said that even if there was an effect, I wouldn't have noticed anyway.

Appreciate your advice. Thank you.
 
#3,131 ·
So I have a question about the airspring ans specifically the "filling valve".

I have the fork apart and airspring out.

When I depress the red valve needle at the fill side the silver thing in the middle at the top pops up.

Not sure if this neg or pos airspring port. But it does not seat fully back in when I release the red valve needle.

I noticed when I was in Finale a few weeks back that it appeared my neg was not filling properly at least the fork did not appear as supple.


Any feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 
#3,132 ·
Another week, another problem for me!

Probably user error but hear me out 😂

Pulled the damper apart. Bled it, refitted to the fork.

After 5 clicks of LsC, the adjuster started to get tight like something was binding.

Removed the damper and checked it on the bench and I get 9 clicks (thought it was only 7?)

Faffed for a while and basically with everything back in the fork, once the 'v seal' that sits between the LsC and HSC adjusters is fitted, the LsC starts to bind at 5 clicks. With the seal removed, I get all the adjustment.

Didn't do it before I took it apart.

I'm wondering if the LsC wasn't wide open when I stripped the damper and then I reassembled it, is it possible that something isn't clocked correctly internally? Or something isn't seated properly inside? The adjuster is in the wrong position?

I'm thinking that the LsC is screwing in too far causing it to tighten too hard against the seal which is causing the tightness. That's all I can't think seeing as it clicks fine without the seal.

Note to self, don't undertake suspension work when you're pushed for time!
 
#3,133 ·
MrRiser said:
Another week, another problem for me!

Probably user error but hear me out 😂

Pulled the damper apart. Bled it, refitted to the fork.

After 5 clicks of LsC, the adjuster started to get tight like something was binding.

Removed the damper and checked it on the bench and I get 9 clicks (thought it was only 7?)

Faffed for a while and basically with everything back in the fork, once the 'v seal' that sits between the LsC and HSC adjusters is fitted, the LsC starts to bind at 5 clicks. With the seal removed, I get all the adjustment.

Didn't do it before I took it apart.

I'm wondering if the LsC wasn't wide open when I stripped the damper and then I reassembled it, is it possible that something isn't clocked correctly internally? Or something isn't seated properly inside? The adjuster is in the wrong position?

I'm thinking that the LsC is screwing in too far causing it to tighten too hard against the seal which is causing the tightness. That's all I can't think seeing as it clicks fine without the seal.

Note to self, don't undertake suspension work when you're pushed for time!
Click to expand...
Where are you putting the seal? It goes between the cap and HSC. If you put it between HSC and LSC knobs it'll limit the clicks you get.
 
#3,135 · (Edited)
Seniorbrucio said:
So I have a question about the airspring ans specifically the "filling valve".

I have the fork apart and airspring out.

When I depress the red valve needle at the fill side the silver thing in the middle at the top pops up.

Not sure if this neg or pos airspring port. But it does not seat fully back in when I release the red valve needle.

I noticed when I was in Finale a few weeks back that it appeared my neg was not filling properly at least the fork did not appear as supple.


Any feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Hello. This valve fills both chambers when opened (if you connect a pump) and it needs pressure to operate correctly. Red thing at the bottom needs to protrude about 1mm in closed (pressurized) state to work as intended. I can’t remember the exact layout of the system but i think it is always calibrated from factory. Try to assemble the spring and pump some air in and your valve will start to close properly
 
#3,136 ·
Sapkovskymtb said:
Hello. This valve fills both chambers when opened (if you connect a pump) and it needs pressure to operate correctly. Red thing at the bottom needs to protrude about 1mm in closed (pressurized) state to work as intended. I can’t remember the exact layout of the system but i think it is always calibrated from factory. Try to assemble the spring and pump some air in and your valve will start to close properly
Click to expand...
Yes I understand how the Dorado works the issue I think, but not sure, is the valve plug/gate (silver) at the top of the dorado air piston doesnt close smoothly when I manually activate the red piston at the bottom.

It seems close properly when I use a pump to activate it.

I took the nut offf the bottom of the airspring which allows you to remove and I assume replace the red piston. I wanter to see if I could check the spring assembly inside the air piston.
 
#3,137 ·
Seniorbrucio said:
Yes I understand how the Dorado works the issue I think, but not sure, is the valve plug/gate (silver) at the top of the dorado air piston doesnt close smoothly when I manually activate the red piston at the bottom.

It seems close properly when I use a pump to activate it.

I took the nut offf the bottom of the airspring which allows you to remove and I assume replace the red piston. I wanter to see if I could check the spring assembly inside the air piston.
Click to expand...
If i understood you right it may be just a little bit sticky. A little grease on orings may help to unstick the valve.

The main concern is if it is not closing properly under pressure which it should even with dry seals…
 
#3,138 ·
Ok so, according to the calculator for a 260lb person, it should be 134 IRT and 96 PSI main. I did that.
What should my HSC, LSC and damper start at? I know it won’t be perfect but I’d like to get in the ball park so when I get out there I’m not guessing all day. I’m dieting and biking losing an average of 3lb a day so when I get down where I want to be I’ll be on the manitou setup chart lol.

I’m running 140mm mezzer pro
 
#3,139 ·
StayVigilant35 said:
Ok so, according to the calculator for a 260lb person, it should be 134 IRT and 96 PSI main. I did that.
What should my HSC, LSC and damper start at? I know it won’t be perfect but I’d like to get in the ball park so when I get out there I’m not guessing all day. I’m dieting and biking losing an average of 3lb a day so when I get down where I want to be I’ll be on the manitou setup chart lol.

I’m running 140mm mezzer pro
Click to expand...
Bit different because I’m riding a 170mm mezzer, but at 240lbs I’m running my HSC 1 click out from fully closed, LSC 2 clicks out from fully closed, and rebound 6 click from the slowest setting. Find it has enough support this way and not overly harsh
 
#3,140 ·
socalrider77 said:
Bit different because I’m riding a 170mm mezzer, but at 240lbs I’m running my HSC 1 click out from fully closed, LSC 2 clicks out from fully closed, and rebound 6 click from the slowest setting. Find it has enough support this way and not overly harsh
Click to expand...
Rebound (when facing the bike, not sitting on it) is clockwise fast, counter clockwise slow? Same with HSC and LSC?
 
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