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#441 ·
Just Me in AZ said:
I will say what I say to all my local friends that have problems with Transmission installs on their DIY installs... find a local bike shop that has experience installing these and take to them and have them do the install from scratch. There is something in the install that the instructions are missing and a seasoned mechanic can do without even thinking (experience) and fixes the issues.

Mine had the exact issues with my DIY install, and I consider myself a pretty good mechanic, and it drove me nuts. Took it to one of my LBS and the mechanic there pretty much removed it and did it again and on the first shot had it smooth as butter. Once I asked him what he had done he said "I have no idea. These things are super fickle and they just require a smooth install." BTW, his settings were exactly the same as mine so it was the the tension and the method of install that made the difference. I asked how much he wanted and he "No charge." I gave him a nice generous tip.
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Every mechanic I have talked to so far said the install is all of it. Since there are no limit screws everything relies on when you physically install the derailleur and tighten it. Its just extremely hard for a lot of mechanics even to tell how you have to tension it before you torque it down. Its basically impossible for normal consumers to do it unless you install a ton of them yourself on your own bikes. I have a lot of bikes but I only have one T-Type and the rest are all the old Eagle AXS. When it works its beautiful, but when anything is wrong with the setup its the hardest thing to get right and is unrideable.
 
#443 ·
Octopuss said:
Come on now, there is no rocket science about pulling the cage back while tightening one damn bolt! It's literally impossible to do the process other than the intended way.
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You say this but this whole thread is telling you that you otherwise. How you position that derailleur before you tighten it is everything and the instructions are completely imprecise.
 
#444 ·
Well, maybe the wording is imprecise, but what exactly is the result of pulling at the cage? It will end up exactly where the chain lets you and not a milimeter further. There is no possible variation - unless you pull very lightly of course and leave some slack.
 
#445 ·
Octopuss said:
Well, maybe the wording is imprecise, but what exactly is the result of pulling at the cage? It will end up exactly where the chain lets you and not a milimeter further. There is no possible variation - unless you pull very lightly of course and leave some slack.
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Even a mm can throw off the shifting where it’s unusable. Also you think the chain has the required force to overcome 35nm? You can easily go +- 5 mm probably even 10mm from where it’s supposed to be. SRAM videos and documents don’t even state the gap size it’s just pull back and see if the chain is skipping on the setup cog. Which for me it looked perfectly fine on the stand but when you ride it was unusable.
Eagle axs had the gap tool and that was pretty exact and it absolutely needed to be in that gap to work correctly. They went from that to just guess and it obviously isn’t working for a lot of people.
 
#447 ·
Octopuss said:
The skipping I am experiencing myself is only on one and a little bit on another cog, which leads me to believe cassette manufacturing tolerances are the biggest problem here. If the setup itself was at fault, the entire cassette would skip and shift badly, wouldn't it?
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I am not sure but I don’t have skipping issues anymore. I had a ton before but it’s nearly perfect now.
 
#450 ·
They are on my bike.

I bought a Transmission GX groupset back in November and I couldn't make it work. I reinstalled it dozens of times, even bought a new torque wrench, nothing worked. I had problem with the 3rd gear and I had to set the microadjust to position 1 from the start. I returned that groupset and bought another one now. This one works flawlessly from the start, I haven't even touched the microadjust. Could it be that some of the derailleurs are problematic? On the first groupset I tried with two cassettes and got the same results.
 
#451 ·
Octopuss said:
Those of you who have no problems with shifting at all, do the two white lines on the derailleur mount match perfectly? I could never get them to match no matter what I did.
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Mine matches. I have XX Transmission on Bronson4 frame. During install, I remember re-fiddling to get them to match before final tightening. After one or two microadjust nudges, I never experienced shifting problems or click/clack noises. ~150+ miles.
 
#455 ·
rdharste said:
Installed x01 on SC Tallboy. installation followed very closely and torqued to spec. Been following this thread for a while. Unfortunately my group set plagued with the common issues. Micro adjust 1-2 fixes gear 3 slip, but causes gear 9 to tick. Fixing one problem creates another!

Checked over XD hub measurements and end cap and everything this thread offered solution wise. Cassette does not wobble. Re installed multiple times with same outcome. Out of options. Shifting is decent, but not perfect esp higher gears 7-12. Gear 9 ticking very annoying.

Not sure if this is a cassette tolerance issue or a bent derailleur from the factory or some indexing issue.. Going to try for warranty route as others have had success with new parts. Very disappointing.
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SRAM found and confirmed an issue with my X01 derailleur - although they did not specify. They replaced it with a brand new one. Installed today, no adjustments on the microshift and the shifting is flawless. All gears seem to be shifting quite nicely across the cassette. Current microshift on 7.

Just a note, the knurled ring line indicator now seems to be lined up perfectly whereas the with the previous derailleur I could never get it lined up perfect.
 
#456 ·
So I have received another X0 groupset and measured the new chain that was in the box and it shows longer pitch as well. So this is confirmed and it it is probably the main difference between T-Type and D1 flattop (which is the standard pitch). Thus, the chain checkers (such as PT-CC-4) shows higher wear of the chain than actual.
 
#457 ·
lukas.marsik said:
So I have received another X0 groupset and measured the new chain that was in the box and it shows longer pitch as well. So this is confirmed and it it is probably the main difference between T-Type and D1 flattop (which is the standard pitch). Thus, the chain checkers (such as PT-CC-4) shows higher wear of the chain than actual.
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STAM has real life problems and they will NOT admit anything. They won’t acknowledge anything. My cassette came loose from 40nm, my friends did the exact same thing, a shop in Bentonville had the same issue 3 different times! My friends derailuer spun and cracked his carbon frame, my cassette broke out a section of teeth. This can’t be the only examples of the problems that exist. Come on SRAM. fess up!!! I’d take a full refund and go back to my AXS XX1 stuff
 
#458 ·
I'm waitng on my warranty replacment for disconnects but I'm hoping it also resolves shifting issues. I did bump the cage against a rock the other day and it was shifting terribly, even though the cage visually looked fine. I couldnt get it to shift correctly so I bent the cage back out a bit and it started working OK again. Not great but OK. Considering they were showing all the BS of people stading on the thing, you'd think it could take a small hit without ruining shifting. Between the gear skipping, disconnects, losening cage and this I'm not impressed.
 
#459 ·
sgtcurry said:
The b gap is set when you tighten the derailleur against the dropout. You can pull the derailleur to a desired position and tighten it. This position is the effective b gap now.

1.) Losen the rear axle and derailleur just like the original SRAM T-Type transmission instructions
2.) Shift the derailleur into the Largest Cog
3.) Position the derailleur and silver ring clockwise as far as you can.
4.) Slowly pull the derailleur counter clockwise until the gap between the pully and the cog is 6mm. You can use a 6mm hex as a guide. Another way to do this is you can pull the cage forward a little past the setup position to check and move the crank 2 rotations just like the Official T-Type setup to see if the chain retention is ok and if the jockey is hitting the cassette. Rotating the cage while the derailleur is lose should position the derailleur as well.

This is like the old AXS setup where you had the guide tool and used the B tension screw but here you have to physically adjust the derailleur position.

5.) Once you have it set you can tighten the derailleur so it isn't moving anymore. Makes it easier to do with one person if you have an 8mm hex already in place before you position the derailleur. Also make sure the silver ring lines up with the derailleur.
6.) Torque down the derailleur to 35nm and the axle to whatever your bike OEM states.
7.) You can set micro adjustment now if you need but it wasn't needed for my bike.

I plan on redoing these steps myself but as far as my memory goes this is what he did. I might not remember correctly if it was the largest or 2nd largest cog. (I remember it being the largest cog, but the old AXS uses the 2nd largest cog with the b gap tool) I will call Monday to clarify.
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It must be definitely shifted on 2nd largest cog and then you are measuring distance between largest cog and upper pulley (it is about 6mm on mine). I was also checking the distance of pulley from largest cog if shifted there and the gap is much bigger.
 
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