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@Dougal

In the dyno tests below it seems like at high speeds, rebound damping always produces more force than compressions does.

Correct? is that a trait that is required? why so? (is it that rider cannot handle the forces of a much firmer compression while rebound is against the spring forces?)

Thanks,
Oren


Some dyno plots:

PVP showing linearity:
View attachment 2067330

CVP showing how smooth and consistent these are. No hysteresis and no bad habits:
View attachment 2067331
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
@Dougal

In the dyno tests below it seems like at high speeds, rebound damping always produces more force than compressions does.

Correct? is that a trait that is required? why so? (is it that rider cannot handle the forces of a much firmer compression while rebound is against the spring forces?)

Thanks,
Oren
Yes that's correct. The damper and spring forces add together on compression and subtract during rebound.

The only applications that run similar compression and rebound forces are race cars. The tracks are smoother, the spring rates are higher and the drivers take a beating.

I actually have some old 4wd shocks that run equal damper forces on compression and rebound. They're harsh and bouncey.
 
Yes that's correct. The damper and spring forces add together on compression and subtract during rebound.

The only applications that run similar compression and rebound forces are race cars. The tracks are smoother, the spring rates are higher and the drivers take a beating.

I actually have some old 4wd shocks that run equal damper forces on compression and rebound. They're harsh and bouncey.
thanks. I keep on learning Here :). interesting stuff.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Thanks for posting the dyno plots.

Let's us see better what's going on.

Thinking of using the Mara inline on builds for my Spouse and kids. For the kids they'll likely need to be valved lighter.
You've read the product info? This isn't one tune. We've got a total of 7 tunes covering kids through to dadzilla's(tm). More tunes over a wider range than anyone else can offer.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Can a Mara SKF Flexible IFP be installed on a McLeod?
Only in the metric ones. Imperial don't have enough space.

The Metric Mcleods were rare and only produced for a short time while they got the Mara Inlines up and ready.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thank You!
I'm figuring out the tools I need. You don't mention shaft clamps or Damper bleed kits in the required tools. I own a 1/2" shaft clamp and no bleed kit. What do you advise?
Indeed. You don't need shaft clamps and there are manual bleed methods.
 
I've tried to sort this out in other threads/reading, but maybe this time will work.

I've had a mara inline on my '22 specialized epic evo (XL) for awhile. I weigh ~200lbs+/-. I run about 220psi on the shock, rebound mostly closed, which gets me pretty minimal sag, but feels decent while descending. However, when climbing, the shock remains fairly active, even under "lock out" position, and can "pogo" really strangely between compressions - the shock will blow through travel and then buck/oscillate back and forth.

Is this a behavior I can improve upon with a pick n mix kit, or is there something else going on with the shock? This isn't something I experienced with the sidluxe, but it felt like **** descending really.

I realize I'm a bigger fella for the epic, but it's so fun to ride on the right stuff.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
I've tried to sort this out in other threads/reading, but maybe this time will work.

I've had a mara inline on my '22 specialized epic evo (XL) for awhile. I weigh ~200lbs+/-. I run about 220psi on the shock, rebound mostly closed, which gets me pretty minimal sag, but feels decent while descending. However, when climbing, the shock remains fairly active, even under "lock out" position, and can "pogo" really strangely between compressions - the shock will blow through travel and then buck/oscillate back and forth.

Is this a behavior I can improve upon with a pick n mix kit, or is there something else going on with the shock? This isn't something I experienced with the sidluxe, but it felt like **** descending really.

I realize I'm a bigger fella for the epic, but it's so fun to ride on the right stuff.
Yes that's exactly what it's for. You'll get a pick of 3 compression and 3 rebound tunes. Plus 2 lockout/platform options.
 
I plan on performing the upgrade soon. I’ve read the instructions and it’s all pretty clear except the part about checking the platform shim preload/float (numbers 4 - 7 on Option B: Trail tune with compression adjust). Will this process be more apparent once I’ve got the shock taken apart and the new shims/piston installed?
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
I plan on performing the upgrade soon. I’ve read the instructions and it’s all pretty clear except the part about checking the platform shim preload/float (numbers 4 - 7 on Option B: Trail tune with compression adjust). Will this process be more apparent once I’ve got the shock taken apart and the new shims/piston installed?
I came up with a clearer description. Not sure if I've updated the instructions yet. I'll check.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Revised platform/lockout stack installation instructions.

Target is 0.05-0.1mm clearance with three 0.2mm platform shims when the IPA lever is backed off and adjusted to be on the first stop.
This 0.05-0.1mm clearance means you can easily slide a 0.1mm shim between the 0.2mm shims, but you can't easily slide a 0.2mm shim in.
Most shocks come out fine at this stage. But if yours doesn't you can add 10mm ID packer shims to reduce the gap or 8mm ID packer shims to increase the gap.

Once you have the clearance good you install the platform/lockout stack required. 3x 0.2mm shims for Trail Tune or 4x0.2mm shims for XC Lockout.

We will have the instructions updated in a bit.
 
I also got pretty confused at the initial instructions: Should one really add a 10mm shim between the platform stack and compression if the gap is too loose? Shouldn't it go in place of the original 10x14x0.1mm against the preload collar instead (which is removed entirely)?
I messed around a bit, then figured my preload adjustment was actually good without adding any extra shims.

"IPA lever is backed off and adjusted to be on the first stop" - can be source of confusion between the 0° position (backed off, i.e.: lever in horizontal position) and the 30° position (first stop). Or is it just me? 🤷‍♂️

EDIT: Looking at the guide again, Figure 11 clarifies this. First stop is indeed fully back off / horizontal.
 
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