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Trying something new for rim tape

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92gli

· West Chester, PA
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I don't recall anyone else ever trying this, but, I'm about to take a sledgehammer to a wheel I recently built. So I'm attempting innovation as desperation.
I started using a race face arc30 offset rim for my front wheel a few weeks ago. First tape job made it 2 rides and then failed while on the way to the trails last weekend. 2nd tape job, which I thought was a masterpiece, didn't even make it 2 hours. Both times the tape lifted off the bead shelf and let air into the spoke holes that are right up against the shelf. This is the only rim I've ever used that has been so difficult. I have a nextie offset rim on my rear wheel that has tape going on 2 years old.
I'm trying aluminum duct tape now. This stuff is supremely sticky, and easy to get smooth on an irregular surface. Only problem is that it's impossible to wrap it around a rim and press it into the center without it wandering sideways and getting bad wrinkles, or ripping it. So I very carefully applied 32 individual pieces over the holes. I then added a layer of narrow stans tape down the center, which is only necessary to take up some space so I could get the tire to seat.
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Hoping I'm on to something. I really think the whole "stretch the crap out of the tape while simultaneously pressing it into multiple curved surfaces" is such a poorly thought out method. Especially for certain rim profiles. Tape has generally been reliable, but there should be a reliable hole plug system on the market by now.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
TylerVernon said:
How is this possible with bead to bead taping? My tape goes up the side of the rim rim. Never experienced tape sliding from spoke holes.
Click to expand...
It didn't slide from the spoke holes per se. 16 of the spoke holes are extremely close to the bead shelf. It lifted off the shelf. 2nd attempt used heat and a tire lever to press it into the shelf. It's a difficult rim to keep the tape down in the center while also expecting the edges on the bead shelf to stay in place.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
eatdrinkride said:
There is. My Roval mtb wheels came with plastic spoke hole plugs w/orings (iirc)
Click to expand...
Last time I looked for those, they weren't available. Was a few years ago.
I have an idea for a threaded plug rattling around in my head. For anyone that has seen the drain plug for a plastic oil pan on a VW or Audi, it's like that, but a firm rubber instead of plastic.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Timothy G. Parrish said:
Interesting to see if the aluminum can hold the pressure without bursting through the holes. This is why flexible tapes are better.
Click to expand...
2 pieces would probably be bomb proof. But I also have those covered with the narrow stans tape running down the center.
So far holding fine at 35 psi. Going riding this afternoon.
 
#10 ·
I have struggled with raceface arc30 offset wheels when it comes to inflating tubeless tires from time to time. It's mostly a case of the tape depressing into the nipple holes and then the tape getting cut by the drilling. What I do now when dealing with these wheels, is run 15mm fiberglass strapping tape over the eyelet drilling holes prior to installing the rim tape.

IMO, your rim tape needs to be from bead hook to bead hook so that it laps under the bead of the tire. If/when I do not do that, the tape will ultimately fail as the tire sealant will work it's way through the adhesive and get under the tape.
 
#12 ·
92gli said:
I don't recall anyone else ever trying this, but, I'm about to take a sledgehammer to a wheel I recently built. So I'm attempting innovation as desperation.
I started using a race face arc30 offset rim for my front wheel a few weeks ago. First tape job made it 2 rides and then failed while on the way to the trails last weekend. 2nd tape job, which I thought was a masterpiece, didn't even make it 2 hours. Both times the tape lifted off the bead shelf and let air into the spoke holes that are right up against the shelf. This is the only rim I've ever used that has been so difficult. I have a nextie offset rim on my rear wheel that has tape going on 2 years old.
Click to expand...
This is fascinating. So you're saying that your rim tape is coming unstuck within 2 hours? What brand(s) have you tried? Also, have you cleaned the rim (sorry for the dumb question) with rubbing alcohol to be sure there's no foreign substance like silicon on there?
 
#14 ·
I usually use Stan's rim tape and end up doing a hack-job. I think most professionals use a heat gun to make sure the tape stretches and smooths out.

If I do the rim tape myself, I find the air pressure in the tire ends up pressing the rim tape down onto the bed of the rim.

Gorilla tape leaves behind a bunch of residue that's a pain to clean up.
 
#15 ·
I recently had an interesting rim tape experience. On a recent bicycle camping trip I had several stream crossings. Because the bike was fully loaded I often walked (sometime rode) across the water. When I arrived home, I was noticing water seeping out of the sidewalls of my tubeless tires, and I was losing air pressure. I removed the wheels and shook/spun them. I heard nice swooshing should inside the rim indicating that was water inside the carbon rim cavities. I took off the tires and a decent amount of very diluted sealant came out. I removed the rim tape and about 1/3 of it had the tape was loose from the rim where the adhesive was no longer bonding it to the rim. Probably 4-6 oz of water flowed out of the rim. (Makes me wonder if some of the adhesives being used on rim tape is water soluble.)
FYI, I looked up the adhesive on the aluminum foil tape you used and it appears to be a water based acrylic. (Says once it sets/bonds, it is water proof.)

Then my brain starts wondering what types of forces are created inside of a rim that is spinning that has water inside of it. What happens at higher speed descending. Can the water pressure created be enough to loosen up the adhesive's bonding around a spoke holes. 25 to 30 PSI tire pressure isn't really that much.
I could probably spend some real time looking up some formulas regarding water pressure created inside a spinning wheel, but I have better things to do these days.
 
#18 ·
Dean easy I think it was made a plug kit. Because we don't have tubeless standards they didn't work for a lot of rims. I remember the kit coming with different plug sizes to try and fit as many rims as possible but I guess it didn't work well? Personally I would love to never deal with tape if there was a good alternative. I've tried multiple rim strips. None worked that great. UST was by far the best tubeless design I've used. I can't say it was the best tubeless experiences I've had, just the best design. Too bad we never got a true universal tubeless standard. We don't even have a tape everyone can agree works the best haha.
 
#19 ·
92gli said:
I really think the whole "stretch the crap out of the tape while simultaneously pressing it into multiple curved surfaces" is such a poorly thought out method. Especially for certain rim profiles. Tape has generally been reliable, but there should be a reliable hole plug system on the market by now.
Click to expand...
Right on target. Asym is fine for spoke tension. A deep channel aids tire install. Both features make it impossible to tape. I am running into the same issues with a similar rim. They should have a filled bed for tubeless, these are rare. Until one comes my way I hope your idea works!

The uneven tape surface may make it more difficult to inflate. Like when I used VeloPlugs to reinforce spoke holes, and then taped over them. Lots of leaks when seating over the bumps, five minutes fussing with a compressor. When tire, tape and rim fit nicely, wipe bead with water. Then a normal floor pump, even with valve installed, is all that's needed.

I did a deep channel rim a few days ago. To reinforce the spoke holes, I first stretched powder coat masking tape as wide as the holes. Then one wrap of legit WTB tape. I didn't bother to stretch it much. Because if I did stretch, like you said, there was still no way to get the tape down into the channel. Instead I stretched it into the center channel with a tube at 40 PSI for a few days. The WTB tape conformed nicely.

One more method I haven't read about . . . I install the tire dry, inflate and wait. Hours or a day later, if it's still good, pull the core and add juice. If it's bad, inflate again and spray with soapy water. Find the source of the leak. Dreaded bubbles at the spoke holes? Tighten the valve. But most likely time to start over.

Gunk be damned, but Gorilla tape fills gaps. It will weep latex into spoke holes without reinforcement so wrap them first with strip of powdercoat or the like.
 
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92gli
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