Haven't been able to ride since June 24th and when I went out to grab my Ripmo V2 today the front wheel just flopped around. I was like "WTH!" Looked at the stem and saw it was cracked at both stem bolts. This stem was properly torqued to 7-9nm and has been on the bike since it was built in Sept. 2022. Anyone ever experienced something like this?
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Chris442
Industry Nine Stem Cracked in 2 places
1 reading
Haven't been able to ride since June 24th and when I went out to grab my Ripmo V2 today the front wheel just flopped around. I was like "WTH!" Looked at the stem and saw it was cracked at both stem bolts. This stem was properly torqued to 7-9nm and has been on the bike since it was built in Sept. 2022. Anyone ever experienced something like this?
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Way overtorqued. No gap/space between the clamping points.
I have this stem.
Would need to be totally ham fisted to close the gap when tightening on a tapered steerer.
Suck for the OP, but appears way overtightened.
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I have this stem.
Would need to be totally ham fisted to close the gap when tightening on a tapered steerer.
Suck for the OP, but appears way overtightened.
Assuming the threads are/were intact at the time of shear/failure=the gap shouldn't close. No change due to failure unless the bolt broke too.
The break is above the gap and threads=break doesn't shift threads and gap.
When threaded things under tension shear, they typically don't come together after failure.
The break is above the gap and threads=break doesn't shift threads and gap.
When threaded things under tension shear, they typically don't come together after failure.
Thanks for your input but as DeeCount said, the tabs don't have threads and when it was installed and torqued with a Park Tool TW there were gaps present. This has been installed since Sept '22 so not sure why is just snapped now. I'll see what I9 has to say tomorrow.
Beam torque wrench > all the others.
Forged stems > machined billet stems.
Steel bolts > stainless or aluminum or Ti. Ti can be good but you MUST use anti seize or good grease because Ti likes to both gall and is subject to galvanic corrosion/bonding.
For the OP, I suspect a running change was made to the steerer torque spec because the originally recommended value was both too high and unnecessary.
Forged stems > machined billet stems.
Steel bolts > stainless or aluminum or Ti. Ti can be good but you MUST use anti seize or good grease because Ti likes to both gall and is subject to galvanic corrosion/bonding.
For the OP, I suspect a running change was made to the steerer torque spec because the originally recommended value was both too high and unnecessary.
I haven’t ever used a torque wrench, I don’t see the point. You strip a thread or two and you get a good feel for how tight things should be. People rely too much on torque wrenches on most things. I can see using on some super light stuff but a hunk of aluminum???? As far as striped bolts, this is usually due to poor quality tools or poor technique and twisting more than turning. As far as things breaking like this it is probably a material selection thing, very similar to the CNC stuff from the 90s.
In the Support section at Industry Nine, you will find the 2022 Stem Installation Instructions: https://industrynine.com/documents/steminstall2022.pdf
remove the "2022" and the previous version does in fact specify 7-9Nm, as others have stated: https://industrynine.com/documents/steminstall.pdf
screenshot of the previous version of PDF.
I hope I9 can set you up with a replacement Chris442!
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remove the "2022" and the previous version does in fact specify 7-9Nm, as others have stated: https://industrynine.com/documents/steminstall.pdf
screenshot of the previous version of PDF.
I hope I9 can set you up with a replacement Chris442!
Standing by for I9’s response as well.
Gold one was bought 1/2023.
Black one was bought 5/2023.
Both are A35’s.
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Gold one was bought 1/2023.
Black one was bought 5/2023.
Both are A35’s.
I wonder if they made a change to the hardware or manufacturing at some point. I've never seen a stem with a max torque of 9nm. I always torque my stems 5nm...but its not the OP's fault if the directions tell you to torque it that tight.
To save weight, that bolt section is very thin too and 7075 alloy is harder but more brittle than 6061, for example. I guess we have to be a bit careful with the torque when it comes to I9s and similar stems. If you look at the ENVE alloy stem and others like RaceFace or Chromag, there is usually a lot more material in that area where it clamps around the steer tube.
My A35 stem was marked 7-9NM as well, and I ended up breaking the bolts. Contacted i9 (after seeing the online manual saying 5-6NM) and they said it was a misprint and 5-6NM is the correct value. Sent me new bolts. Seems like OP way over torqued the bolts, IMO.
I've never used a torque wrench on any stem bolt. I torque until it feels good enough. Never had a problem. What is even the point of cranking it down? You want enough bolt stretch so it doesn't unscrew, but there is also threadlocker helping that. The top cap keeps it from flying off the top of the steerer. In a crash, it's going to slip anyway no matter how tight it was.
I've had stems (Deity Copperhead) slip on the steerer tube at 5 Nm from just riding. Also, having a certain bolt torque does not directly translate to a certain amount of clamping force on the steerer (one stem torqued to 6 Nm may have more or less clamping force than another stem at 6 Nm). Furthermore, this is the only stem I remember owning that had any issues at the specified torque.
Count me in as another one that's never used a torque wrench for even carbon road bike parts. The only thing I bust my torque wrench out for are suspension pivot bolts... bike's just aren't that complicated. Never a problem. I think it's important to develop feel and what you are trying to accomplish alongside the use of a torque wrench.
Can't agree more.
I do think torque wrenches are a really good thing for most people, but I just happen to own one that I've never used.
I do think torque wrenches are a really good thing for most people, but I just happen to own one that I've never used.
In a good crash you want it to slip. The top cap is just a red herring with respect to this entire discussion.
I don't technically even have a top cap bolt.
I don't technically even have a top cap bolt.
FWIW I just took a look at Pro-Bolt USA's support page for Max Torque Guide -
M5 socket cap bolt:
Stainless Steel - 10 Nm
Titanium - 10 Nm
Aluminum - 6 Nm
I9 setting 9 Nm would definitely leave little room for error or variance in torque wrenches.
M5 socket cap bolt:
Stainless Steel - 10 Nm
Titanium - 10 Nm
Aluminum - 6 Nm
I9 setting 9 Nm would definitely leave little room for error or variance in torque wrenches.
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