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Recommendations for inexpensive 26 inch MTB tires?

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wearetheborg

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I got a used bike after my other bike was stolen, the front tire has cracks in it, and needs to be replaced. I spent 7 hours cleaning the bike over two days, and now the front tire.
I'm going to use the bike pretty much only for city riding as transportation, and looking for some puncture resistant tires.

Two tires in consideration:
Specialized Hardrock'R for $22: Hardrock'R | Specialized.com
Bontrager Connection Hard-Case Trail Tire $24 (after upcoming coupon): https://www.rei.com/product/171548/bontrager-connection-hard-case-trail-tire

Which one is better, and are there better deals?
I can wait 3 months
 
#2 ·
Turns out there are lots of choices. Both of your examples seem pretty aggressive for city/transposition only duties. Take a look at Bike Tires Direct (City/Touring Tires Cycling Products - BikeTiresDirect)

Lots of choices, most in the $25-$40 range. My old 26” commuter rocked Continental Traffics then schwalbe Big Apples. Both worked well with tubes filled with sealant and I rarely had to change a tube due to flatting.

I currently run semi-slicks on my commuter, because sandy corners are awful on full slicks.
 
#3 ·
The Bontrager because it's the least MTB of the two, but even then it's still more than you'll be needing. Dedicated commuter tire models exist. If you're focused on REI, peruse their 26" commuter tires here. Vittoria and Schwalbe both make good commuting tires.

At prices this low already, and with 26" getting as scarce as it is, it's likely not worth your time to wait months in the hopes of saving maybe $20 if you could use a bike now.
 
#4 ·
There are much better options at Specialized than the Hardrock'R you linked, several of them very affordable.

This Crossroads would serve well on roads and mellow trails, has Flak Jacket puncture protection, $22
Crossroads | Specialized.com

this Hemisphere would be better on roads and still passable off pavement, has Flak Jacket, also $22
Hemisphere | Specialized.com

this Infinity Sport Reflect is a little skinnier and likely slightly faster on pavement, has Blackjacket flat protection, $22.45
Infinity Sport Reflect | Specialized.com

The Hemisphere and Nimbus are also available in the Armadillo versions, which has a great reputation for durability against punctures, but the price rises to $42.

If you get a pair of the $22 ones, just add a tube or two, or grips or something to get above $50 for free shipping.

I don't think you'll do any better than these Specialized tires in terms of performance/price for your stated purpose.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks all.

InertiaMan said:
There are much better options at Specialized than the Hardrock'R you linked, several of them very affordable.
Click to expand...
Better in what sense? Is it just that the non-MTB tires have less rolling resistance?
For durability against broken glass etc, how do the non-MTB tires compare to the MTB tires?


InertiaMan said:
This Crossroads would serve well on roads and mellow trails, has Flak Jacket puncture protection, $22
Crossroads | Specialized.com

this Hemisphere would be better on roads and still passable off pavement, has Flak Jacket, also $22
Hemisphere | Specialized.com

this Infinity Sport Reflect is a little skinnier and likely slightly faster on pavement, has Blackjacket flat protection, $22.45
Infinity Sport Reflect | Specialized.com

The Hemisphere and Nimbus are also available in the Armadillo versions, which has a great reputation for durability against punctures, but the price rises to $42.

If you get a pair of the $22 ones, just add a tube or two, or grips or something to get above $50 for free shipping.

I don't think you'll do any better than these Specialized tires in terms of performance/price for your stated purpose.
Click to expand...
 
#7 ·
wearetheborg said:
Better in what sense? Is it just that the non-MTB tires have less rolling resistance?
For durability against broken glass etc, how do the non-MTB tires compare to the MTB tires?
Click to expand...
Absolutely better in rolling resistance, but also better handling. At speed on pavement I'd much rather be cornering on a smooth-ish tread than large knobs. The pavement oriented tires probably also offer better puncture protection in an urban environment, both by design and by generally thicker rubber (vs the relatively thin rubber between knobs on a dirt focused tire).
 
#8 ·
To add to Inertia’s entirely correct statement, knobs don’t add anything more than friction. On dirt this is desirable (more friction = more grip) but on pavement it means vibration and slower rolling.

There is also no direct relationship between knobs and puncture resistance. The tread depth/rubber thickness matters (especially for small glass bits) but the space between knobs is thin and thorns/tacks/large pieces of glass and sharp rocks will find their way between the tread blocks.

Tires meant for dirt also typically use softer rubber compounds compared to those meant for pavement (gross generalization because there are way too many variables, but still generally true). This means that the dirt tire will likely be slower and wear faster. MTB style tires are also generally heavier than their slick and semi-slick relatives and don’t ride as well on hard surfaces (more vibration, less “feel” for the road surface).
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
InertiaMan said:
There are much better options at Specialized than the Hardrock'R you linked, several of them very affordable.

This Crossroads would serve well on roads and mellow trails, has Flak Jacket puncture protection, $22
Crossroads | Specialized.com

this Hemisphere would be better on roads and still passable off pavement, has Flak Jacket, also $22
Hemisphere | Specialized.com

this Infinity Sport Reflect is a little skinnier and likely slightly faster on pavement, has Blackjacket flat protection, $22.45
Infinity Sport Reflect | Specialized.com

The Hemisphere and Nimbus are also available in the Armadillo versions, which has a great reputation for durability against punctures, but the price rises to $42.

If you get a pair of the $22 ones, just add a tube or two, or grips or something to get above $50 for free shipping.

I don't think you'll do any better than these Specialized tires in terms of performance/price for your stated purpose.
Click to expand...
I got the Hemisphere as it had the same weight as the Hardrockr, so I thought more durable compared to the crossroads which was lighter (the crossroads was also made of a less durable rubber).
Looking at the tire I see the advice on this thread about the empty spaces between the knobs on an MTB tire. The Hemisphere is much more evenly covered.
The original config was the old cracked tire in the front (which I'd inflated to 30 PSI), and a Hardrockr in the back inflated to 45 PSI (the lettering on the tire had a limit of 50).
I swapped the existing back Hardrockr to the front, and put in the new Hemisphere in the back, inflated to 60 PSI (limit 65).

Massive difference in rolling resistance. I wasn't expecting this much of a difference :)
The bike rolls and rolls now without pedaling. Very pleased.
 
#11 ·
wearetheborg said:
I swapped the existing back Hardrockr to the front, and put in the new Hemisphere in the back, inflated to 60 PSI (limit 65).

Massive difference in rolling resistance. I wasn't expecting this much of a difference :)
The bike rolls and rolls now without pedaling. Very pleased.
Click to expand...
Glad you got your rig tuned up to your liking.

You may want to experiment with lower tire pressures. 60psi is a LOT for a 1.95" wide tire, assuming you aren't 350 pounds. The max PSI ratings stamped on tires are not intended as guidance for recommended pressures. More like the limit beyond which the tire may explode. Optimal pressures are often 1/2 of the max, believe it or not.

You can check out pressure calculators like SILCA Professional Tire Pressure Calculator to get some recommendations. They aren't the end-all/be-all but their recommendations can help. Speed / rolling resistance is a trade-off between firmness and conformability. Beyond a point, higher PSI can actually be slower.

It depends some on your body weight, but the calculator above may suggest 35-ish PSI which may instinctively seem very low to you. At a minimum, I would definitely suggest dropping to ~ 45psi and ride that for a day or two. Its likely to be much more comfortable than 60 and still be very efficient. Even 40 is well within reason, more than enough to protect against rim strikes, and offer a pleasant ride.

Glad you got some tangible help from the thread.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
InertiaMan said:
Glad you got your rig tuned up to your liking.

You may want to experiment with lower tire pressures. 60psi is a LOT for a 1.95" wide tire, assuming you aren't 350 pounds. The max PSI ratings stamped on tires are not intended as guidance for recommended pressures. More like the limit beyond which the tire may explode. Optimal pressures are often 1/2 of the max, believe it or not.

You can check out pressure calculators like SILCA Professional Tire Pressure Calculator to get some recommendations. They aren't the end-all/be-all but their recommendations can help. Speed / rolling resistance is a trade-off between firmness and conformability. Beyond a point, higher PSI can actually be slower.

It depends some on your body weight, but the calculator above may suggest 35-ish PSI which may instinctively seem very low to you. At a minimum, I would definitely suggest dropping to ~ 45psi and ride that for a day or two. Its likely to be much more comfortable than 60 and still be very efficient. Even 40 is well within reason, more than enough to protect against rim strikes, and offer a pleasant ride.

Glad you got some tangible help from the thread.
Click to expand...
Wow, never would have guessed that about tire pressure, thanks!

The link says 43-46 PSI (combined weight 240 lb)
 
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wearetheborg
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