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DVO Topaz

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#2,601 · (Edited)
codytheflash said:
Anyone have experience removing the alloy travel spacer on new gen3 Topaz shocks? I am looking at doing but the info isn't very clear from DVO. My plan is to take the air can off, unthread the damper from the shaft, empty oil, unthread seal head from shaft, slide off, then slide off the travel spacer. Putting it back together is just the reverse but will require bleeding after I add new 2.5wt oil. This is where I am unsure - what bleed fitting will mate with the port on the shock? Is there any other tricks or tips I should know?
Click to expand...
Reverb/Formula Cura 4 fittings are compatible.
Was gonna suggest YT user Jesse DVO whom which might know for 3rd gen but I randomly found this vid of Gen. 1 shaft removal:
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---------
Meh after all this experimenting I went to 22cSt oil which isn't near as heavy as Torco RSF Medium and should also thin down a little when riding without reaching 100*C values quickly.
Turns out my extra shim isnt 8mmID so it won't fit but I do have extra IGUS bushings for anyone interested.
 
#2,602 ·
flgfish said:
I assume this is a question about mounting hardware. I have swapped hardware between DPS and a Topaz. And Ibis sells the same kit for both shocks on their bikes.
Click to expand...
Not mounting hardware, just the standard eyelet bushings that go on most brands which house the hardware. I swapped both hardware and bushings between DPS and Topaz as well but the IGUS ones just slide so nicely, break them in a lil' and they're almost like needle bearings.
 
#2,603 ·
Dougal said:
Dished pistons aren't a good thing and one shim won't even be noticeable. If you can double the number of shims you'll make progress.
Click to expand...
Isnt that piston model part of the Ibis tune? I proposed the classic one as in the original.
In my practical experience you're better off with packing the positive chamber with butyl tube plus a bit of grease and your one extra shim rather than change the stack.
#Sry 4 da spams errbody but I've done so much experimenting on this little fella that I have to share everything otherwise there'd be no value to it.
 
#2,604 · (Edited)
Hi folks!

Need an opinion here. I've aquired unused secondhand TopazT3, sold as 185/55.
When i got it, markings near the eyelet stated 210/55. But the ETE is identical as my old shock.
I've removed bushings and installed as original shock was, and fits nice, no touching anywhere on depressurized shock.
Seems stroke is maybe 2mm shorter than on my RS deluxe 185x52.5, might be spacer inside?
Haven't opened it yet.
Edit: just did. There is a 5mm spacer but no metal washer thats supposed to be there right below small o-ring?

..Really dont know what to think?

Image
Image
Image
Image
 
#2,608 ·
mooha said:
Hi folks!

Need an opinion here. I've aquired unused secondhand TopazT3, sold as 185/55.
When i got it, markings near the eyelet stated 210/55. But the ETE is identical as my old shock.
I've removed bushings and installed as original shock was, and fits nice, no touching anywhere on depressurized shock.
Seems stroke is maybe 2mm shorter than on my RS deluxe 185x52.5, might be spacer inside?
Haven't opened it yet.
Edit: just did. There is a 5mm spacer but no metal washer thats supposed to be there right below small o-ring?

..Really dont know what to think?
Click to expand...
Shock bodies etc are common to 210mm eyelet and 185mm trunnion shocks. Hence the labelling. But that shock should have a steel washer to support the bottom-out o-ring (whether the white travel spacer is there or not) and for some reason it doesn't.
It's a partial strip and rebuild/bleed to put one back.
 
#2,609 · (Edited)
Dougal said:
Shock bodies etc are common to 210mm eyelet and 185mm trunnion shocks. Hence the labelling. But that shock should have a steel washer to support the bottom-out o-ring (whether the white travel spacer is there or not) and for some reason it doesn't.
It's a partial strip and rebuild/bleed to put one back.
Click to expand...
Something like that, yup
Sent an email to DVO this morning, few hours later they replied with direct answers to my issues! Now thats a support from manufacturer.

Looks like "185 and 210 shock share the same damper body". And also that metal washer is apparently not "needed and most times removed during a service".
Washer probably didnt do much difference?
Though i wonder, pardon my ignorance on the matter, how 210 and 185 size share the damper body, it fits mine great as it turns out, but how would it fit 210 frame?

Btw, thanks flgfish ;)
 
#2,611 ·
mooha said:
Though i wonder, pardon my ignorance on the matter, how 210 and 185 size share the damper body, it fits mine great as it turns out, but how would it fit 210 frame?

Btw, thanks flgfish ;)
Click to expand...
It won't fit a 210 frame. The damper body and "shock body" (or something like that) are two seperate things. 55mm is the stroke, 185 or 210 is the overall length. 185 is trunnion, 210 is standard with eyelets on both ends. A shock with a 55mmm stroke can have a trunnion 185 or a standard 210 body. The stroke is the same, the damper body is the same, but the overall length is different and the mounting is different because the shock bodies are different.
 
#2,612 ·
mooha said:
Something like that, yup
Sent an email to DVO this morning, few hours later they replied with direct answers to my issues! Now thats a support from manufacturer.

Looks like "185 and 210 shock share the same damper body". And also that metal washer is apparently not "needed and most times removed during a service".
Washer probably didnt do much difference?
Though i wonder, pardon my ignorance on the matter, how 210 and 185 size share the damper body, it fits mine great as it turns out, but how would it fit 210 frame?

Btw, thanks flgfish ;)
Click to expand...
Without the washer your bottom-out o-ring only has 2/3 contact. If you never use it it won't matter but if you do it will eventually cut the o-ring.
Not sure why you'd ever take one out during service. They're put in shocks because they serve an important purpose.
 
#2,614 ·
I am doing a full servicing of a Topaz T3. I have been following the service direction on the PDF from the CVO website.

When I get to step 28 (after I remove the damper shaft) it references and pictures a washer and o-ring on the damper shaft
Image


But mine does not have this o-ring or washer. Also, the air piston head looks different:
Image


Mine is obviously a different version than the one in the instructions. It came on a Ripmo AF sometime around summer of 2021.

My question is whether I am OK without that washer and o-ring?

I emailed the question in to DVO, but I figure I won't hear back til Monday at the earliest, so I figured I'd ask here.

Thanks!
 
#2,615 ·
kapusta said:
I am doing a full servicing of a Topaz T3. I have been following the service direction on the PDF from the CVO website.

When I get to step 28 (after I remove the damper shaft) it references and pictures a washer and o-ring on the damper shaft
View attachment 2029097

But mine does not have this o-ring or washer. Also, the air piston head looks different:
View attachment 2029098

Mine is obviously a different version than the one in the instructions. It came on a Ripmo AF sometime around summer of 2021.

My question is whether I am OK without that washer and o-ring?

I emailed the question in to DVO, but I figure I won't hear back til Monday at the earliest, so I figured I'd ask here.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
The square topped seal-head is the newer type, those green ones all cracked and got replaced.
The o-ring is the bottom-out bumper and the washer is to stop the o-ring being lost over the stub in the shaft head. If your shock was assembled missing the washer the bumper o-ring can be caught up in the head. The o-rings can also be broken by repeated hard bottom-outs and maybe remains removed during air-can service.

See this post above: DVO Topaz

It would be quite concerning if your shock was assembled without either. How did bottom-out feel?
 
#2,617 ·
Dougal said:
The square topped seal-head is the newer type, those green ones all cracked and got replaced.
The o-ring is the bottom-out bumper and the washer is to stop the o-ring being lost over the stub in the shaft head. If your shock was assembled missing the washer the bumper o-ring can be caught up in the head. The o-rings can also be broken by repeated hard bottom-outs and maybe remains removed during air-can service.

See this post above: DVO Topaz

It would be quite concerning if your shock was assembled without either. How did bottom-out feel?
Click to expand...
Have not paid close attention to the bottom out feel, I guess it is a bit of a hard clunk. but I don’t ever remember having a bottom oit that felt particularly harsh.

in any event, I could see the o-ring getting chewed up and lost, but not the washer.
 
#2,618 ·
kapusta said:
I am doing a full servicing of a Topaz T3. I have been following the service direction on the PDF from the CVO website.

When I get to step 28 (after I remove the damper shaft) it references and pictures a washer and o-ring on the damper shaft
View attachment 2029097

But mine does not have this o-ring or washer. Also, the air piston head looks different:
View attachment 2029098

Mine is obviously a different version than the one in the instructions. It came on a Ripmo AF sometime around summer of 2021.

My question is whether I am OK without that washer and o-ring?

I emailed the question in to DVO, but I figure I won't hear back til Monday at the earliest, so I figured I'd ask here.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Well, I heard back from DVO.

As Dougal correctly pointed out, mine is the new sealhead.

Regarding the washer and o-ring: They said they are not needed and they are “taking them out” now. I’m not sure if that meant they are taking them out during servicing, or they also don’t put them in new ones anymore. Apparently, that little o-ring can get jammed into the seal head and cause leaks.

DVO serviced and tuned this shock right after I bought it (used) a year ago and they must have removed the washer/o-ring during that process.
 
#2,619 · (Edited)
Back in October of last year I purchased the Topaz Gen1 for my 2021 Giant Trance 29. And I have trying different setup’s because I felt since day 1 that something was off. It seemed very soft.

Two things I learned in regards to the Trance, over the last 8 months. The Trance does not perform well at all with more than 25 % of sag. I ride in the northeast where it’s very rocky and rooty and I have found about 10mm of sag to be optimal and balanced (firm vs soft). Fox’s and DVO’s air pressure charts are very far off for the Trance. The Fox DPS was installed prior. It’s understandable in my opinion because of the amount of bikes one particular shock fits. I am usually 190 to 195 pounds all geared up and I run 250 PSI in the main chamber (60 PSI higher than recommended for my weight). And overall the bike is more sports car than trophy truck.

The absolute game changer for me was upping the bladder to 190 from 180 PSI. I was very close to the 180 setting but was told not to really change it. The bike has become an absolute rocket even in the rough stuff. I do realize that the bladder should not be used a a tuning aid BUT it works so damn well now. The ride is firmer but again the Trance is firmer in general. The composure the bike has at speeds in rock gardens and over roots has been phenomenal for a 115mm travel bike. I am thrilled with DVO in general and it really shines when things get rough. I was really tempted to add spacers and stuff to increase the sag (instead of increasing PSI) but I am glad i didn’t. The wallow sensation is all but gone and the shock is buttery smooth. There has been a slight loss in small bump sensitivity but really the gains far exceed that loss. Better at higher speeds and low speed tech in general.
 
#2,620 ·
kapusta said:
Well, I heard back from DVO.

As Dougal correctly pointed out, mine is the new sealhead.

Regarding the washer and o-ring: They said they are not needed and they are “taking them out” now. I’m not sure if that meant they are taking them out during servicing, or they also don’t put them in new ones anymore. Apparently, that little o-ring can get jammed into the seal head and cause leaks.

DVO serviced and tuned this shock right after I bought it (used) a year ago and they must have removed the washer/o-ring during that process.
Click to expand...
They're removing bottom-out bumper o-rings?


Oey12 said:
Back in October of last year I purchased the Topaz Gen1 for my 2021 Giant Trance 29. And I have trying different setup’s because I felt since day 1 that something was off. It seemed very soft.

Two things I learned in regards to the Trance, over the last 8 months. The Trance does not perform well at all with more than 25 % of sag. I ride in the northeast where it’s very rocky and rooty and I have found about 10mm of sag to be optimal and balanced (firm vs soft). Fox’s and DVO’s air pressure charts are very far off for the Trance. The Fox DPS was installed prior. It’s understandable in my opinion because of the amount of bikes one particular shock fits. I am usually 190 to 195 pounds all geared up and I run 250 PSI in the main chamber (60 PSI higher than recommended for my weight). And overall the bike is more sports car than trophy truck.

The absolute game changer for me was upping the bladder to 190 from 180 PSI. I was very close to the 180 setting but was told not to really change it. The bike has become an absolute rocket even in the rough stuff. I do realize that the bladder should not be used a a tuning aid BUT it works so damn well now. The ride is firmer but again the Trance is firmer in general. The composure the bike has at speeds in rock gardens and over roots has been phenomenal for a 115mm travel bike. I am thrilled with DVO in general and it really shines when things get rough. I was really tempted to add spacers and stuff to increase the sag (instead of increasing PSI) but I am glad i didn’t. The wallow sensation is all but gone and the shock is buttery smooth. There has been a slight loss in small bump sensitivity but really the gains far exceed that loss. Better at higher speeds and low speed tech in general.
Click to expand...
These shocks are extremely low on compression damping. That's why they feel soft.
Bladder air pressure doesn't however do what you think it does. It's a very minor addition to spring-rate and top-out force.
 
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