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I roll with an Outbound Lighting
Outbound Lighting make the very valid point that car headlights are limited to somewhere around 2500 lumens, so if that's enough to see clearly at 80MPH on the interstate it should be enough for riding your bike at 10 - 20mph through the forest.
 
Light and Motion Seca 2200 Enduro is around 2k likens and a nice flood pattern. Perfect on the helmet and even going fast and through jumps I don’t need anything else. Awesome light and I’ve had it a year and a half with zero upgrade itis.
The Niterider 2000 lumen I also have sucks in comparison. Spot beam and the battery stopped taking a charge 6 months in. It was my loaner but now I’m not going to bother buying a new battery.
 
Not sure if any bike specific lights use Anduril for an OS...but it has something called "smooth or gradual tint ramping". It gives a smooth transition between brightness settings and it has more settings than the typical three to four on your traditional bike lights.
I'm currently testing a Cygolite Ranger 2000 that has adjustable presets via a ramping mode and there are several high end Moon lights that in addition to traditional preset mode output levels also have what they call VLS that is a ramping mode that covers up to the high mode level and boost is still available by double clicking the mode button.
Mole
 
When I first purchased a 30" light bar for my first Polaris RZRs (back in 2013) I got a cheap one. I later purchased a newer RZR with a Rigid 30" bar, the difference between the two for me was insane. The cheap one was just putting out light (mind you it was a lot of awesome light) where the Rigid was putting out that same light in a pattern that was useful.
So taking what I learned from my RZR Off-road night time experiences, I passed on the inexpensive lights and went strait to Outbound Lighting to get my lights for my MTB. I am so glad I did as they are perfect for my riding. Do I know their Lumen? no, do I care, no.

Steve
 
I'm currently testing a Cygolite Ranger 2000 that has adjustable presets via a ramping mode and there are several high end Moon lights that in addition to traditional preset mode output levels also have what they call VLS that is a ramping mode that covers up to the high mode level and boost is still available by double clicking the mode button.
Mole
My Anduril lights have some 8 settings in the stepped mode from the lowest to turbo. That's not including the various strobe modes. Turbo isn't really sustainable since it steps down rather fast and gets crazy hot.

The smooth ramping is something that I really like in my flashlights...at the same time...I can't picture myself playing with the tint ramping while I'm riding my bike. My bar light spends most of its time in the mid setting with my headlight on low. I'll switch both lights to high when the trail goes down.

The bad with Anduril equipped lights is that it's rather easy to really screw up the settings.
 
IMO, once you hit around 1500- lumens, on the bar, it is far more important WHERE those lumens go than how many you have.

Running an Outbound Trail Evo opened my eyes up to this. It is significantly less lumens than my previous setup, but I can actually see everything better. At high power (I believe is around 2000) it is all the light I’ll ever need for short and medium range. I don’t even need high power for rolling and flatter terrain.

As far as the helmet, I think it depends on how fast you’re going. For all the trail riding I do on East Coast wooded single track, 1000 is plenty. I Imagine on more wide open high speed stuffI might want more.

The problem with focusing just on lumen numbers is that too many lumens in one spot just makes it harder to see where there are fewer lumens going.

The most important aspects of lighting are…
1-Beam Pattern
2-Beam Pattern
3-Total Lumens.
 
I passed on the inexpensive lights and went strait to Outbound Lighting to get my lights for my MTB.
I got a the Outbound set for Xmas and I can't wait to use them at some point when ski season is done. I might get their road light for my gravel bike as that will likely get more use in the spring as I tend to ride road/gravel very early in the day, and MTB in the afternoon so don't really need lights until fall.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
The most important aspects of lighting are…
1-Beam Pattern
2-Beam Pattern
3-Total Lumens.
I tend to agree, Mole reviewed and recommended my first bar-mounted headlight, a Ravemen PR800, which makes very good use of the limited lumens and battery power. The beam pattern is wide and well diffused in "mountain biking mode". I liked it so much that I bought a second Ravemen, the PR900, for a little more battery power, and the additional LED display of power remaining. I ride mostly XC, or "downcountry" at night on narrow and windy singletrack trails. 500-800 lumens is fine for me. I would probably like a little more lumens and additional battery power if I was doing more aggresive downhill at higher speeds, but the Ravemen suits me for now. Medium setting 500 Lumens uphill, high setting 800 Lumens downhill. I'll get about 3 hours with that before needing to recharge. That being said, I will be exploring new trail systems soon with longer and wider fields of view, where a headlight with higher lumens throwing light futher out in front may be helpful, not so much for seeing what i'm rolling over, but for seeing what's off in the distance to look ahead for things like trail junctions, animals, or anything else an early warning would be beneficial for.
 
Min 2000 lumin on the bar and the same on the head.

im actually running 4500 lumin on the head and 2000 on the bar. Both flood beam. I dont run spot anymore.

PS my riding doesnt change day/night. I'm still hitting the same rediculous double black stuff at night too. So.... lights need to be day bringers.
Not an unusual take, obviously, but night riding is like a different sport to me. Hitting a jump in the dark (and I'm not even talking BIG jumps), where your lights are shining into the trees and you can't see anything past the face until you already 100% commit to launching takes a leap of faith (or a really good memory) - the brightness of the lights does not matter. Happy to say I've only ever plowed a downed tree in the dark once in 30 years.

-F
 
Min 2000 lumin on the bar and the same on the head.

im actually running 4500 lumin on the head and 2000 on the bar. Both flood beam. I dont run spot anymore.

PS my riding doesnt change day/night. I'm still hitting the same rediculous double black stuff at night too. So.... lights need to be day bringers.
I'm in the same boat. I'm hitting runs at full tilt at night and currently running 5400 lumens on a headlamp only. Bar lights have never worked for me. Just as important, or more, than brightness a 100% reliable setup. Lights cutting out at the wrong time can be devastating.
 
I'm in the same boat. I'm hitting runs at full tilt at night and currently running 5400 lumens on a headlamp only. Bar lights have never worked for me. Just as important, or more, than brightness a 100% reliable setup. Lights cutting out at the wrong time can be devastating.
You can smash a light in a trash or wipe it off with a low hanging branch. Imo a bar light fills in the peripheral and acts as redundancy in case of damage to the main light.
 
You can smash a light in a trash or wipe it off with a low hanging branch. Imo a bar light fills in the peripheral and acts as redundancy in case of damage to the main light.
Redundancy at full speed is important. I have had all my lighting go out during a night race. I had already run out of battery on one light and the remaining light cable pulled out on me. I blew straight through the corner and into the desert. Thankfully no damage besides being totally freaked out. In another part of the course, the results could have been way worse.

I also find that the bar light provides shadows which allow me to judge features better. Just a helmet light doesn't do that for me...
 
Redundancy at full speed is important. I have had all my lighting go out during a night race. I had already run out of battery on one light and the remaining light cable pulled out on me. I blew straight through the corner and into the desert. Thankfully no damage besides being totally freaked out. In another part of the course, the results could have been way worse.

I also find that the bar light provides shadows which allow me to judge features better. Just a helmet light doesn't do that for me...
Redundancy in the event of a hit is an interesting idea. Running my lights pretty low and forward would mean smashing a light would end the party, regardless. There also isn't much (or anything really) in the way of low hanging obstacles when I'm going fast, but trail challenges definitely vary by region. The cables are pretty tucked in too, but I could imagine snagging would be quite the shock.

I've always been surprised that my personal experience with bar mounted lights has been so negative given it seems the conventional wisdom to run headlamp + bars lights for best visual acuity. I've tried the setup, with good lamps, and it just doesn't work for the way I read trails obstacles and features. 100% for me a single headlamp is superior for when I'm going fast.
 
Redundancy in the event of a hit is an interesting idea. Running my lights pretty low and forward would mean smashing a light would end the party, regardless. There also isn't much (or anything really) in the way of low hanging obstacles when I'm going fast, but trail challenges definitely vary by region. The cables are pretty tucked in too, but I could imagine snagging would be quite the shock.

I've always been surprised that my personal experience with bar mounted lights has been so negative given it seems the conventional wisdom to run headlamp + bars lights for best visual acuity. I've tried the setup, with good lamps, and it just doesn't work for the way I read trails obstacles and features. 100% for me a single headlamp is superior for when I'm going fast.
Can you tell us what 5400 lumen helmet light is small enough to mount low and forward?
 
Redundancy in the event of a hit is an interesting idea. Running my lights pretty low and forward would mean smashing a light would end the party, regardless. There also isn't much (or anything really) in the way of low hanging obstacles when I'm going fast, but trail challenges definitely vary by region. The cables are pretty tucked in too, but I could imagine snagging would be quite the shock.

I've always been surprised that my personal experience with bar mounted lights has been so negative given it seems the conventional wisdom to run headlamp + bars lights for best visual acuity. I've tried the setup, with good lamps, and it just doesn't work for the way I read trails obstacles and features. 100% for me a single headlamp is superior for when I'm going fast.
I agree the bar only I pretty useless. But bar and head is best, providing you use flood beam.

I can almost guarantee that your negative experience has been a disco show of pencil type bar and headlights bouncing around. That is a bloody nightmare.....
Try 2 floods. You cant tell where the light is coming from.

Also I have smashed , broke, pulled wires and had every single light failure over the years. There is no such thing as a 100% reliable light when you are crashing.....
 
Die to the shadows it casts, I find light from the bar allows me to see things much better than from a helmet light which flattens everything out. Problem being you can’t move it around. So I like a wide beam bar light for short-med range, and a helmet for longer range. Either one on their own kind of sucks, IMO.
 
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