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Just FYI for anyone looking to build a 120: According to Yeti 55mm chainline “wide” cranks are required to clear the frame. I was planning on using regulat boost cranks and a 0mm offset chainring, but at least acc. to Yeti CS it won’t work. They didn’t mention what the minimum possible q factor is but probably around 170mm. Got X01 “MTB wide” cranks on order.
 
Just FYI for anyone looking to build a 120: According to Yeti 55mm chainline “wide” cranks are required to clear the frame. I was planning on using regulat boost cranks and a 0mm offset chainring, but at least acc. to Yeti CS it won’t work. They didn’t mention what the minimum possible q factor is but probably around 170mm. Got X01 “MTB wide” cranks on order.
Second this. That rear triangle is very wide and definitely will not clear standard Q factor crank width. I am running the XT-8120 wide cranks that have a 178mm Q factor and my foot still contacts the chain stay at times.
 
Second this. That rear triangle is very wide and definitely will not clear standard Q factor crank width. I am running the XT-8120 wide cranks that have a 178mm Q factor and my foot still contacts the chain stay at times.
I’ve got the wide Q factor cranks on my 120 and have to run spacers on both sides. Trying standard cranks on the 140 and a boost (3 mm offset) 30 tooth chainring will NOT work. Ordered a Wolftooth 0 mm offset chainring to mount next week.
 
I’ve got the wide Q factor cranks on my 120 and have to run spacers on both sides. Trying standard cranks on the 140 and a boost (3 mm offset) 30 tooth chainring will NOT work. Ordered a Wolftooth 0 mm offset chainring to mount next week.
I’m sure the chain line will be fine with the 0mm offset, but not sure how well your feet will be clearing the chain stays if it’s anything like the 120 rear triangle.
 
I’ve got the wide Q factor cranks on my 120 and have to run spacers on both sides. Trying standard cranks on the 140 and a boost (3 mm offset) 30 tooth chainring will NOT work. Ordered a Wolftooth 0 mm offset chainring to mount next week.
But yet posts in this thread a few pages back said standard cranks with a 30T round will fit. One even said Yeti confirmed this.
 
I’m sure the chain line will be fine with the 0mm offset, but not sure how well your feet will be clearing the chain stays if it’s anything like the 120 rear triangle.
Crank clearance is about 8-10mm on both sides from the chain stays, so I think I'll be ok. Chainring coming today, so maybe a test ride on Wednesday.
 
But yet posts in this thread a few pages back said standard cranks with a 30T round will fit. One even said Yeti confirmed this.
Not on my 140. Chainring is 1 mm from chain stay ring pocket and the OneUp chain guide rubs with zero spacers installed. Maybe Shimano/Race Face/etc are different from SRAM Eagle XX1?
 
Hello everyone. I just got the 120 frame having a tough time with the bottom bracket. On drive side it goes in smoothly then at the end it starts to be crooked any one have this problem?
raceface 6SixC crank using raceface BSA 30 mm bottom bracket 68/73mm 30mm spindle.
Got it to work but with spacers working fine but just feel $4200 for a frame and have to deal with this.
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Awesome. How’s your foot clearance on the chain stay ? Any issues
Just a word of warning to anyone with bigger feet - I tried the same XX1 crank with a Wolftooth 0 offset chainring as above and kept clipping my heels constantly on the rear seat stay of my 140.

Now on a superboost 5Dev crankset with a 6mm offset chainring which has solved the issue.
 
Just a word of warning to anyone with bigger feet - I tried the same XX1 crank with a Wolftooth 0 offset chainring as above and kept clipping my heels constantly on the rear seat stay of my 140.

Now on a superboost 5Dev crankset with a 6mm offset chainring which has solved the issue.
Ah yes. Seat stay , not chain stay. Yeah the drive side is really wide in an area where my heel still clips it at times , even with the wide MTB cranks. Normal cranks my clear the frame , but your feet likely will not.
 
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