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How old is it? What is the model of the cassette joint [piece that is locked onto the hub after the sprocket]?

Hubs with more planetaries than just one (aka, 3 speed) are difficult to adjust by "feel". If you apply gentle pressure to the wheel while turning it, as with a lightly dragging brake, you can feel the point where the shift clutch in the hub releases when you are pulling cable. Your goal is to get all those releases to happen in the same spot. If you do this while riding, you can strip the shifting pawls if you are not careful, so best to do in a stand.

You can also simply buy a new cassette joint, which has the indexing marks painted on.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Or, you can paint a new mark by comparing with another cassette joint.
Thanks a lot for all those answers. It took me a long while to figure out what was going on here and there. Turned out that the cable had taken a short turn around the cassette joint. Once corrected the adjustment was easy enough and somehow instinctive, even though one of those marks has vanished.
My old bike is a Trek Waubesa from 2011 which I have used all year around for the last ten years up here in Norway. I dream of a hub gear that won’t freeze below zero. But those are expensive I gather.
So until then: How can you tell apart your cassette joint model from another ?
 
In case the characters are hard to read.
The two models of cassette joints used with Nexus 8-speed are CJ-8S20 and CJ-8S40. Probably the latter in Norway, given the weather.

Regarding freezing, have to modify the lubricant. What do you use?
Recall reading that someone in Alaska adds a little kerosene in winter.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Here in Norway internal hub gears are very rare and far between. Bicycles are mainly used for sports, not transportation. Only reason I’m into it is my upbringing in Denmark. In my youth I owned a Sturmey Archer five speed, oh how I miss it.
My bike was specifically ordered from abroad somewhere and so nobody knows how to maintain them around here -me neither. I have recently read about it though on the Sheldon Brown website. It seems to be a somewhat complicated and messy affair requiring special tools and what not. Therefore I use my bike as a single speed when below zero. Unfortunately it has now become my winter bike and in deep snow more than one gear would be most welcome.
Thank you for your patience and advice. Overwhelming to get help from across the Atlantic and all!
 
Shimano's Nexus grease is quite thick--an NLGI 2, for sure...but it has a neat trick: it's soluble in their lubricating oil for Nexus hubs. If you have any chemist acquaintances, they may be able to tell you what the base of both are, allowing you to thin them without destroying the lubricant.

I will say that the standard service procedure is simply removing the internals (unscrew the left side, not the right!), dipping it into a vessel filled with heavier oil, then pulling it out to drain back in for a minute or so. Afterwards, put grease on the planetary cogs through the gaps, the roller clutches (if present), and reassemble, applying grease to the LH wheel bearing before closing it up.

You need a couple of tools to remove/install the RH cone to get access to the other wheel bearing, which is a weak point in the service. It otherwise never gets greased, and will eventually fail entirely...necessitating the replacement of the driver assembly, since it houses the bearing race.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Discussion starter · #16 ·
One is the method suggested by wschruba.
When you remove the hub internals, you can drill an oil/grease port and add lubricant/grease/mineral spirits/kerosene/Shimano's oil etc through this port. This is the second method. Google for further info.
Thank you very much!
I will dive into these alternative methods and when springtime comes put into practice.
 
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