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-There's a great video on YouTube of Greg Minaar & his Mechanic doing to SH Burp dealeo. Shows him cleverly putting the Downtube on top of the clamp on the work stand (No need to clamp it down!) and it levels the brake levers perfectly (for most!)
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Trying to picture this... can't. :unsure:
=sParty
YouTube "Shimano Brake Burp" and scroll to "On the Spanners with Greg Minaar & Jason Marsh".
Crack a beer & enjoy.

-I'd link the vid but this Chromebook is being a piece of garbage & not cooperating....
 
Ah, I see you're following my method.

I also do this: open the brake port and let the fluid drip out to clear contamination. Then I attach two syringes (rubber band to seat stay or fork) and blast fluid up from the caliper as fast as I can. This flushes any bubbles. My shimano brakes feel perfect - same firmness, same travel front and rear.
Nice Brother,just thought I would share. I too love Shimano Brakes and can not understand all the people having problems? Save for XTR’s seal problem years back,they have been Solid for me. Most seem to want a lot of lever throw. IE,they want the Lever tobe able to come way in on the Fingers and Then have Constant Full Power. They are not having Luck with doing so. Mabye I’m wrong.
 
I've never found a lever bleed or full bleed to be a long term solution for WBP. Some say it's a viscosity thing, not a bleed thing, but I really don't know enough to talk about that. I know there's a fluid on the market that claims to remedy the issue for good. Bleed.com maybe? Maybe it's just rebranded O weight suspension fluid which some say takes care of it.
Yep. Bled with HPX 2.5. Still does it. Maybe a little less, but not less enough to say it's not a problem.

It's not a bleed problem. Air is compressible and easily detected. The WBP is a firm lever. It's not air.
 
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Also been using Putoline in my brakes for a year now. I guess wandering bite point issue improved a little or I've got used to it and don't notice anymore.

Tried everything I could think of to sort out rear bite point issue and no alternative bleed method or anything else I tried made any difference.
 
Also been using Putoline in my brakes for a year now. I guess wandering bite point issue improved a little or I've got used to it and don't notice anymore.

Tried everything I could think of to sort out rear bite point issue and no alternative bleed method or anything else I tried made any difference.
Try to just install a brand new brake hose.
As weird as it sounds, some people tried to just change the levers, or calipers, or both. And the problem was still there.
But after getting a new hose the new components suddenly worked without any issues.
It just a guess, but maybe there is something wrong with your hose, or the cable gets clamped to strongly along the frame in some spot.
 
Try to just install a brand new brake hose.
As weird as it sounds, some people tried to just change the levers, or calipers, or both. And the problem was still there.
But after getting a new hose the new components suddenly worked without any issues.
It just a guess, but maybe there is something wrong with your hose, or the cable gets clamped to strongly along the frame in some spot.
Still using the same original levers, only ever had a bite point issue on the rear. Front and rear have both had new two pot calipers fitted and now both have four pot calipers fitted.

I considered what you mentioned a long while ago about the hose being clamped too tight (with cable ties) but went from external to an internally routed frame. At the same time the rear had a brand new hose fitted coz the old one was too short.😔
 
Some good thoughts here but I’m still baffled every time I crack the bleed port on the lever of my xt8000s and see dead space in there. Where has the fluid gone?
As the pads wear, the pistons need to extend further out from the caliper. In effect, the volume of the system increases and the fluid in the master cylinder drops.

In brake systems of cars, motorcycles, etc… the brake master cylinder reservoir is much larger. However you can still see the level drop in the reservoir as the pads wear.
 
Some good thoughts here but I’m still baffled every time I crack the bleed port on the lever of my xt8000s and see dead space in there. Where has the fluid gone?
My guess would be after bleeding with a bleed block, fitting new pads or whatever a little more oil instantly goes into the system during the few lever pumps that brings in the pads to the normal clearance gap to the rotors.
 
I was going to say something more relevant, but I got distracted by your brake lever angle. They’ve got to be like a 70 degree angle or something.

Ive run my brake levers not even near as perpendicular to the ground as yours (maybe 50 degrees?), and it was still way too pointed down to me. I find that once I’m going down any sort of steep section, the brake levers are either pointed straight down, or even back towards me. And doing that gave me thumb pain, as I was effectively just hanging on by my thumbs when on anything steep.

So now they are flatter(maybe 30 degrees, no idea, never measured), and I use my palms on the grips more like a push-up while descending.
 
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