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phantoj

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a Deore M6010 hub on one of my bikes, and the freehub has always seemed to have too much play in it. A very noticeable amount of movement that probably affects shifting precision a bit.

I have read about other people having similar issues, but never a fix for it, besides replacing the freehub or the wheel. Or tightening the cassette onto the freehub or the freehub onto the hub (both already tight for me).

If you watch Youtube videos of freehub teardowns, they will mention the washers underneath the cone of the freehub. There's one thick washer and two very thin washers. I believe these "washers" should more correctly be called "shims". On my hub, the thin washers different sizes: one is 0.1mm and the other is 0.05mm. Unlike an axle where you have a jamnut system to allow the cones to be tight - but not too tight - the freehub uses these shims to set the clearance.

I'm going to reassemble the freehub, but leave out the 0.05 shim. My hope is that this will be enough to take out the excessive slop without getting the cones too tight and causing binding.
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Apparently, this obscure knowledge can be seen in a diagram on Park Tool's website, although the article itself treats the freehub as a disposable part:


Image


Also, for future readers, I believe the freehub I'm working on (typical 12mm through axle freehub) uses 37 balls on the inboard side and 35 on the outboard side.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
yeah, they're basically disposable. good luck finding a tool for disassembling a Shimano freehub!
I used one from Amazon, not the best quality tool, but it worked OK:
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Here is an article about servicing freewheels from the Sheldon Brown page. I think Sheldon said pitch em and put a new one on, but John Allen wrote this article about service: Rebuilding Bicycle Freewheels

In it, he mentions that you can remove one shim without complete dissassembly to fix slop in a freewheel. I wish I had read this article, but I find it's hard for me to understand what I'm reading until after it's too late -- after I've already dived into a project and learned (by seeing) how something works.


A new freehub is $42 plus shipping -- I can't find the M6010 one in stock, but I can find an XT one that looks like it should fit for that price.
 
I used one from Amazon, not the best quality tool, but it worked OK:
I looked EVERYWHERE for something like that a few years ago and could find nothing. it's good to see that something is on the market, and cheap!

Shimano hubs have long been known to be garbage. if you have tools to pull them apart and service them regularly, that helps a lot. but the freehubs on most Shimano hubs are known to explode with heavy use and there's not much you can do about it.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Shimano hubs have long been known to be garbage.
I have only had a couple of freehubs die on me. One was an LX "Silent Clutch" (sprag clutch, no pawls) that was ridden in some wet conditions at Snoeshoe WV circa 1999. There were a bunch of Cannondale employees there we were riding with. One gave me a spare wheel with a DT Hugi (I think it's the same as DT Swiss) hub. I kept it (I think they were cool with that, it was a long time ago!) and a few months later the Hugi hub died on me too.

I don't ride that much, so I'm not killing a lot of freehubs. Shimano stuff has been OK for me; I'm generally a Shimano fan. When I took this one apart, everything was clean and nicely greased. Just a little sloppier that I think it should be.
 
Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
Well, it worked. I removed one 0.05" shim and now the freehub has just a tiny bit of perceptible play in it. BUT I loaded it up with Finish Line wet chain lube and now it's almost silent! Works fine, though.

In order news, I lost one of the 3/32" ball bearings and had to get one from my local Ace Hardware ($0.18 each)
 
Not in defense of the poor quality that causes the play, but I don't think this actually causes shifting issues. If you load up the hub by the amount that can be applied by hand on the cassette, I think you'll find that the pawl engagement locks up the out of plane freeplay. This means anytime you are pedaling, the plane of the sprockets is fixed (and to my eye, consistent/repeatable).
 
phantoj, you are spot on with the preload being set with shims. I used to keep used shims for resolving sloppy components. I have also made shims using various materials to make a component useable again.
Great to see the effort going into keeping a wheel in service.

As for a sprag. They are nothing more than roller bearings in a ramped housing for a one way clutch mechanism. Common in automatic transmissions on a larger scale.
 
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