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Through axle fu*k up

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Bob777

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have an embarrassing issue that i need help with. I think it stems from the dumb mistake i probably made when assembling the bike in a hurry, i think i switched the rear through-axle position so that the screw is on the derailleur side or maybe it should be the other way around, if you look at the pics look at the Nm number and arrow pointing for tightening.
I have tried to release the screw counter the arrow painted on the screw - but clock-wise should be for tightening like every other screw i suppose, so that releasing the screw is counter clockwise, but the painted marks showing the direction confused me so i messed up the screw head and my derailleur is out of place too and the screw is stuck and with pretty worn head.
Now i have found some tips online how to circumvent this worn/mangled screw head, but in what direction is the release now in the end, how to solve this rookie mess up i made:
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#8 ·
Bob777 said:
I never heard of an Easy Out before, thx for the tip. However, before i try that, do i unscrew anti clockwise or in the other direction of the arrow painted on the screw? You see my issue?
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The arrow is pointing anti-clockwise, so you turn clockwise to loosen. Problem is that what was once 25nm is probably closer to 50nm or more now that you've over tightened it. Combine that with the stripped axle nut and likely destroyed bearing, and I think BansheeRune is right that it will require a screw bolt extractor. And a new hanger, bearing, and axle nut.
 
#9 ·
Thing with the extractor is your working on aluminum - not steel right? It’s so soft. You better also have a good impact drill like maybe a little Makita.
Another thought - Can you just drill the bolt out without nicking the frame just totaling the hanger?? That’s gonna be the last resort.

Edit - the ez out is designed to turn counter clockwise that’s no good.
 
#10 ·
The arrow shows you turn it anti-clockwise to tighten it, because you don’t list a torque vale (25nm) for loosening a fastener. So to loosen would be clockwise. It is reverse thread.
 
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#11 ·
rjrodney said:
Thing with the extractor is your working on aluminum - not steel right? It’s so soft. You better also have a good impact drill like maybe a little Makita.
Another thought - Can you just drill the bolt out without nicking the frame just totaling the hanger?? That’s gonna be the last resort.

Edit - the ez out is designed to turn counter clockwise that’s no good.
Click to expand...
you’d need a reverse extractor. I think straight drilling would make sense. 3/8 bit maybe? But yh last resort.
 
#12 ·
sacrefrancais said:
Combine that with the stripped axle nut and likely destroyed bearing
Click to expand...
rjrodney said:
Thing with the extractor is your working on aluminum - not steel right? It’s so soft. You better also have a good impact drill like maybe a little Makita.
Another thought - Can you just drill the bolt out without nicking the frame just totaling the hanger?? That’s gonna be the last resort.

Edit - the ez out is designed to turn counter clockwise that’s no good.
Click to expand...
Given what has happened with this install and the mechanical knowledge here, with the likely problem of destroying things that aren't cheap fixes... I would take this to your local bike shop.

Like @sacrefrancais said there is a huge amount of torque applied to equipment that can't handle it and like @rjrodney has said, you are working with soft materials (even the steel bolts on bikes tend to be soft as heck) and worse still, a wide hollow bolt at that.

You can absolutely drill this out, but having done lots of drill outs myself over the years, doing it on such a position and part of the bike even I would be very uncomfortable doing so.

You could end up spending a bit of coin on products to get you out of this problem and still make things worse.
 
#13 ·
dryk1t said:
Given what has happened with this install and the mechanical knowledge here, with the likely problem of destroying things that aren't cheap fixes... I would take this to your local bike shop.

Like @sacrefrancais said there is a huge amount of torque applied to equipment that can't handle it and like @rjrodney has said, you are working with soft materials (even the steel bolts on bikes tend to be soft as heck) and worse still, a wide hollow bolt at that.

You can absolutely drill this out, but having done lots of drill outs myself over the years, doing it on such a position and part of the bike even I would be very uncomfortable doing so.

You could end up spending a bit of coin on products to get you out of this problem and still make things worse.
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100% agree with this. In fact I recently made this same mistake, only i sheared the hanger in half. Trek resolved everything for like $62, without needing to drill.
 
#16 ·
My guess is, you tried to loosen the axle but actually tightened the UDH (axle is non drive side, UDH is drive side). The UDH is designed to rotate back and up if the derailleur hits something, which appears to be the case now. I'd take it to a bike shop and have them show you how it works.
 
Discussion starter · #20 · (Edited)
OldMike said:
Get a Dremel and carefully make a large slit/slot. Then use as large of a flat-head screwdriver you can find.
Other more costly option is to take to a machinist/mechanic/LBS.
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Thx for the tips my man, but it got solved today. My friend who owns a local bike shop, his guys were able to loosen the screw, and just moved the UDH back to it's place. Apparently nothing was damaged at all (except the udh screw head somewhat), i was lucky, had nothing to change, the same worn screw head is still there. Here are some pics below, the dirt is proof in the pudding; rode it today. However i will change that UDH and screw down the road soon, and will not make dumb mistakes like this in the future, like not removing the through axle before the UDH, no wonder it almost got very bad. Thx everyone for chiming in you have been all very helpful nonetheless. Best regards!

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