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2 Brand New Chris King Rear Hubs having serious problems (Loud cranking and clanking sounds)

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#61 ·
jonshonda said:
I would guess king as sold several thousand rear hubs in all different formats, and there are less then a handful complaining. I would think most manufacturers would be pretty proud of that statistic. Your opinion differs greatly to mine regarding what is or is not different. Just because two components provide the same function does not even remotely come close to them qualifying as being "the same".
Click to expand...
Understood, but saying the ‘new’ technology of microspline is the root cause when one of the (3-4?) troubled hubs was XD is a bit of jumping to a false conclusion.


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#63 · (Edited)
jonshonda said:
Any issues reported with HG hubs?
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Hard to say….considering there’s only (6) hubs that have had issue from this thread alone. Maybe more ppl will chime in.

I don’t know for a fact, but I’m assuming anyone dropping $300-400 on a new CL CK boost hub in 2020+ is running Shimano Microspline or XD driver. Unlikely there will be many HG drivers out there.

Only CK would know the actual sales split/volume of the different designs.


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#64 ·
I’ve stripped mine today and did the normal re grease. Nothing too weird in there, nothing missing, no grime. Have re assembled for the last time and after that will insist on dropping in for the distrib to have a look at it. Hopefully won’t come to that.
 
#65 ·
Hmm…after reading-reading this thread, my current hypothesis is the preload adjustment.

After the most recent servicing of the hub, I adjusted the preload out of the bike. Just using my hands to preload the hub and lock down the adjustment ring.

This CK video demonstrates what I did.


Time will tell if the creak comes back, and if so will be sending out to CK for warranty service.


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#66 ·
thebenskiii said:
I’ve stripped mine today and did the normal re grease. Nothing too weird in there, nothing missing, no grime. Have re assembled for the last time and after that will insist on dropping in for the distrib to have a look at it. Hopefully won’t come to that.
Click to expand...
One last thing to try…set the preload by hand as shown in the video linked above.

I’m thinking setting preload while in the frame is questionable and not as precise.


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#67 ·
junior77 said:
One last thing to try…set the preload by hand as shown in the video linked above.

I’m thinking setting preload while in the frame is questionable and not as precise.


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Click to expand...
i had trouble with preload (wouldnt stay tight) in an old hub and got it diagnosed at the ck booth at an mb fair. They said to set preload using allen in the hole with hub clamped in frame…
 
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#68 ·
eri said:
i had trouble with preload (wouldnt stay tight) in an old hub and got it diagnosed at the ck booth at an mb fair. They said to set preload using allen in the hole with hub clamped in frame…
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Yep, agreed, that’s what I have always done. But setting the preload while out of the frame seemed more secure. Maybe, just easier access to the adjusting clamp. Not sure if there is any real difference, just a hunch.


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#70 ·
thebenskiii said:
Again, a re grease seems to have solved it for now. No tell tale signs internally of why. I also wonder if it’s a dodgy batch of microspline bodies where it meets the bearing.
Click to expand...
Possibly? But there was a member here with a ‘dodgy’ XD driver. Maybe/maybe not related.

Keep us informed how quickly the creak comes back.


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#71 ·
Hi,


Glad I found this thread. Already tried a lot of things except on the rear hub which I had assumed it had no problem because of its $$.

Anyway, I'll open the hubs up. When you say regreasing it, you're not using the oil that CK has recommended and using actual grease? Plan to apply the grease instead of the oil on the drive spline.
 
#72 ·
lalachill said:
Hi,


Glad I found this thread. Already tried a lot of things except on the rear hub which I had assumed it had no problem because of its $$.

Anyway, I'll open the hubs up. When you say regreasing it, you're not using the oil that CK has recommended and using actual grease? Plan to apply the grease instead of the oil on the drive spline.
Click to expand...
Ring drive requires ring drive oil.

All other surfaces, grease. CK blue grease

Bearings require CK bearing grease. CK black grease


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#73 ·
junior77 said:
Ring drive requires ring drive oil.

All other surfaces, grease. CK blue grease

Bearings require CK bearing grease. CK black grease


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Click to expand...
Don't have those.. Trying to do what's available here and not using CK products. The hubs are imported so I doubt any CK consumables are available here without any waiting time
 
#74 ·
So, I forgot to mention that I bought another set, used, at a very good price.
This was before I knew that the rear CK hub was the problem. I wouldn't have even if it was a good deal.

I tried re-greasing the hub that was on the bike and it still have the bad creak.
Then I thought of swapping the driveshafts as I don't want to rebuild the wheelset just to find out.

After swapping them driveshafts, it didn't make any bad creak. My Sentinel V2 is back to being quiet.
But I don't know how long it would last. I'll have to see on the upcoming trail days. fingers-crossed
 
#75 ·
lalachill said:
Don't have those.. Trying to do what's available here and not using CK products. The hubs are imported so I doubt any CK consumables are available here without any waiting time
Click to expand...
Understood…

You would want still want to use oil, not grease on the ring drive.

Supposedly, it is based on 10w30 full synthetic motor oil.


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#78 ·
lalachill said:
Easy there tiger. I have not been lazy especially when you've checked all the components of your bike just to find out the expensive crap is shitting on you.
Also, I forgot to mention, the hubs are not even 3 months old. lol
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Yeah you should be able to count on Chris King 100% of the time, but even NASA level components aren't correct 100% of the time. Sample variation is a given. No excuses, just life. I dream of the time when I can go a whole season w/o a bike issue of some sort. Best of luck!
 
#79 ·
lalachill said:
Easy there tiger. I have not been lazy especially when you've checked all the components of your bike just to find out the expensive crap is shitting on you.
Also, I forgot to mention, the hubs are not even 3 months old. lol
Click to expand...
Its expensive stuff because you can call them on the phone and theyll take care of you. Better yet put all your findings and photos in an email to them. Ive had Unbelievably good service from ck. My rear hub is more than 15 years old.

What youre experiencing is weird. I wouldnt swap parts without first knowing the problem. Call they can help diagnose over the phone or email.

Wrt lube: there are other options. call ck they can recommend what to use. Theyre very specific. Dont ‘wing it’ or you might do more damage.

Curious: when you hold the swapped parts side by side do you see or feel any difference?
 
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#80 ·
eri said:
Its expensive stuff because you can call them on the phone and theyll take care of you. Better yet put all your findings and photos in an email to them. Ive had Unbelievably good service from ck. My rear hub is more than 15 years old.

What youre experiencing is weird. I wouldnt swap parts without first knowing the problem. Call they can help diagnose over the phone or email.

Wrt lube: there are other options. call ck they can recommend what to use. Theyre very specific. Dont ‘wing it’ or you might do more damage.

Curious: when you hold the swapped parts side by side do you see or feel any difference?
Click to expand...
That is something I have yet to see. Already emailed them and they haven't got back to me yet.
I just want to ride man that's why I do this DIY stuff to avoid downtime. Good for you guys that they can easily reach you. As for me, RMA might take more than 2 weeks.
Also, I'm posting in this thread because more than 2 people have the same problem. There's even a video posted on the previous replies. Feel free to read them up.
 
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