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BrapperBrad

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I’m in a bit of a pinch with my i9 Hydra rear hub. The bearings are worn and I’ve been riding them anyways as I’m having a hard time getting replacements. They’ve just now started to develop a slight bit of play when mounted in the frame.

The new bearings are finally on the way, but I’m going on a trip this weekend and I won’t have them in time.

My question is, should I be worried about causing serious damage to the hub by riding it in its current condition, or is it just that I have to deal with the poor ride quality?
 
Any particular reason for that? I’ll probably just borrow a wheel, but I am really curious about the potential dangers of riding a hub with busted bearings.
you haven't read many threads about worn bearings seizing up or disintegrating (or both) on a ride, have you? that sort of stuff can cause quite a bit of undesirable damage.
 
Depending on the design (I'm unfamiliar with i9), the worn bearings can also contribute to premature failure of the bearing races. The "races" are the hub materials the bearings are pressed into and directly interact with. If you've got play, then you're likely damaging the races--this will only get worse if you try to over tighten the hub to compensate for the play.

If you are going to a mtb mecca (NWA, Brevard, or Moab), then its possible one of those LBS' may have those bearings. Call ahead to be sure.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Depending on the design (I'm unfamiliar with i9), the worn bearings can also contribute to premature failure of the bearing races. The "races" are the hub materials the bearings are pressed into and directly interact with. If you've got play, then you're likely damaging the races--this will only get worse if you try to over tighten the hub to compensate for the play.

If you are going to a mtb mecca (NWA, Brevard, or Moab), then its possible one of those LBS' may have those bearings. Call ahead to be sure.
Thanks! That’s really helpful info. Just to be clear since they’re cartridge bearings, do you mean the part of the hub shell that they press into when you say “races”? When I think of races in a cartridge bearing, I’m think of the race that is actually part of the bearing itself and not the hub shell.

Thanks for being helpful!
 
I think your hubs bearings are like in this: NSMB.com - Industry Nine Hydra Hubs - Ridden and Teardown

Personally, I'd be more minded of a corroded bearing on the verge of seizing than one that had a nominal bit of play in a cartridge bearing used over a weekend. Others may have more insight about this tho - and you know the conditions of your hubs and how they were used.

I've toasted & neglected bearings over the years and never ruined a hub that way but who knows? One set of grey XTR from the 90s that have lived outside year round for about 20 years :). Maybe don't take my advice.
 
As they are cartridge bearings you are unlikely to wreck the hub in a weekend (or for quite a long time if it's only a touch of play). Best bet would be to pop them out, lift the seals, rinse through with rubbing alcohol, and grease them. The play is because the balls in the bearing will be worn but they won't bind if they are sufficiently clean and greased, and binding is what you' be trying to avoid.

The only cartridge bearing I've killed was when my Kona frame broke. Something to do with the load ovalised one side of the bb bearing a tiny fraction so it became one solid lump. Invisible and bearly perceptable with a vernier gauge, but obviously just enough. I've run a Hope front hub with the same bearings for over a decade between changes and it was fine. Bikes are fairly simple compared to larger vehicles where bearings come under much greater stresses.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I think your hubs bearings are like in this: NSMB.com - Industry Nine Hydra Hubs - Ridden and Teardown

Personally, I'd be more minded of a corroded bearing on the verge of seizing than one that had a nominal bit of play in a cartridge bearing used over a weekend. Others may have more insight about this tho - and you know the conditions of your hubs and how they were used.

I've toasted & neglected bearings over the years and never ruined a hub that way but who knows? One set of grey XTR from the 90s that have lived outside year round for about 20 years :). Maybe don't take my advice.
Ha! I’ve definitely been guilty of some bike neglect myself. Honestly I’ve probably done this to more than one other wheelset without even realizing it. Those were just old OEM DT Swiss 370s and I didn’t really care if they got messed up. These were just expensive so I wanna be more careful with them. Thanks for the input!
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
As they are cartridge bearings you are unlikely to wreck the hub in a weekend (or for quite a long time if it's only a touch of play). Best bet would be to pop them out, lift the seals, rinse through with rubbing alcohol, and grease them. The play is because the balls in the bearing will be worn but they won't bind if they are sufficiently clean and greased, and binding is what you' be trying to avoid.

The only cartridge bearing I've killed was when my Kona frame broke. Something to do with the load ovalised one side of the bb bearing a tiny fraction so it became one solid lump. Invisible and bearly perceptable with a vernier gauge, but obviously just enough. I've run a Hope front hub with the same bearings for over a decade between changes and it was fine. Bikes are fairly simple compared to larger vehicles where bearings come under much greater stresses.
Thanks for the input! It’s really appreciated.
 
If the bearings are caged (like one piece bottom brackets where they're partially exposed) or loose (just the BB touching the race) then yes, it can cause damage if left long enough with odd shaped bearings or missing bearings. The races will have stresses and wear on them because of being unsupported fully. Sealed bearings being rough are in their own case and normally won't effect the hub itself, but will cause excess heat and in turn can seize. I'd not do any heavy riding on worn bearings if you can notice they're worn. If they seem rough what you can do is flush them with brake clean after pulling the seal (if they're sealed) and flush out all the old gunk. Blow them out with air and pack them full of grease. Leave seal on or off, up to you. Easier to service with them off. If they're unsealed you can do the same. Try and find other BB the same size and if caged, get rid of the cage. You need to leave one BB space if the bearings are too tight in there, but if they roll smooth with the hub packed up you should be fine. Clean and regrease the BB's and races and tighten until there's no play in the axle but not tight enough where it feels like it's jumpy. Tighten the cones and lock nuts and call it a day.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
you haven't read many threads about worn bearings seizing up or disintegrating (or both) on a ride, have you? that sort of stuff can cause quite a bit of undesirable damage.
I don’t think they’re even close that far gone that they would seize up. If they did would that damage the hub shell or just the bearings which are being replaced anyways?
 
Seized bearings are bad news. Something else will want to turn, usually the axle within the inner race, but sometime a bearing could spin in the outer shell too. If axle you cannusually replace the axle, but hubshell usually means hub is trash.
 
My question is, should I be worried about causing serious damage to the hub by riding it in its current condition, or is it just that I have to deal with the poor ride quality
If it's not awful, just let it roll. Roll? Get it? Bwahahahahaha!

Don't overlook that the slop and subsequent misalignment might cause your axle to fail. Optimally, you'd fix it before the trip. I've never let a wheel get so bad so that I could feel the slop when the wheel's installed, so I have no idea how much more time you can milk out of them.
 
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