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Tired of DT hubs falling apart

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#43 ·
Is there a loctite-style retaining compound that might stick them even better but still be removable with a little force? A less-durable bearing retainer type for non-threaded interfaces? Or one for threads that's adequate for the light usage here?
 
#44 ·
AgentX said:
Is there a loctite-style retaining compound that might stick them even better but still be removable with a little force? A less-durable bearing retainer type for non-threaded interfaces? Or one for threads that's adequate for the light usage here?
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Yeah just use the blue loctite thread locker. It’s lower strength than retaining compound.
but both types may be too strong once the interference fit is factored in. Maybe just a drop of silicone sealer on the shaft .or gasket maker
 
#45 ·
Just a few potential solutions:
  • Wrap the end of the axle with teflon tape to make the interference fit snugger;
  • Loctite as suggested, start with the purple; or
  • A bit of headlight butyl sealant on the endcap/axle interface, warning, that stuff is sticky.
 
#47 ·
RickBullottaPA said:
I've tried most of the "high end" hubs over the past few years (I9's, King, Enve) and am now 100% on DT 240s. They simply work reliably. I have had failures on rides with pretty much everything else, including broken hub shells, freehub failures, bearing issues, broken axles (I'm only about 170 lbs). Easy to get parts, easy to service, good engagement, and smooth as silk. If the only issue I have to deal with is remembering not to yank the freehub off, I'll take it.
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My legacy I9 ss hub would do the same thing and that was far more serious since it was full of tiny pawls and springs. Terrifying to work on since the internals felt so fragile and were very hard to clean.

But as for the simple perfection of dt hubs... I've had 350 on my road bike for years without a hitch, smooth and simple, but thats a sunny day bike. On my mtb I sold my 240 wheels because I ride a lot in the wet and the genuine dt bearings were rotting in a bit less than 2 years, was $120 for bearings and freehub (got another freehub for less than the cost of its bearings), my discotech singlespeed kings on the other hand are over a decade old and have only cost the price of lube, which is really amazing to me.
 
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#48 ·
eri said:
My legacy I9 ss hub would do the same thing and that was far more serious since it was full of tiny pawls and springs.
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Is this a thing with I9 hubs? I bought a used bike and it had I9 hubs. The previous owner told me to keep some paracord handy when taking the rear wheel off because the pawls and springs would shoot all over the place if you didn't tie the hub together.

I had the bike in the shop and asked if there was a proper way to take the rear wheel off to avoid that happening with I9 hubs, but he hadn't heard of the problem.

I've taken the wheel off many times but have been lucky I guess.
 
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#50 ·
Cleared2land said:
No, it's not a thing with I-9 hubs or DT Swiss hubs.
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well… mine was an older version of the i9 singlespeed hub. The aluminum cog i used weighed very little and the freehub disassembled itself on me trailside. Maybe i was rough but i was surprised when it fell off.

on the bright side the freehub internals were very easy to access when it came time for its frequent maintainance, there was a small detent to hold it on.
 
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AgentX
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