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Banshee Prime and Titan Chainline?

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Travis1911

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to figure out what chainline my Banshee Prime has. I'm guessing it's 52? I found no reference to it online. I have a FC-M120 crank that I put on it just a minute ago and there is a 5mm gap on the non-drive side. Do I use the spacers that came with the cranks, I one on each side? Two on the non drive side? Or do I need to get the FC-M100 cranks? I have had FC-M100 cranks on my Titan for about a year now. Was totally unaware of the different options. Any help would be great.

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
The chainline depends on your setup really... if using a boost 148 hub and sram setup then they will say optimal is 52mm... but honestly I personally prefer to run a slightly narrower chainline than recommended as it lines up better with climbing gears, which are the gears you normally use most and want to be most efficient.

I'd actually argue that there is no ideal chainline unless you run singlespeed...
 
#7 ·
builttoride said:
The chainline depends on your setup really... if using a boost 148 hub and sram setup then they will say optimal is 52mm... but honestly I personally prefer to run a slightly narrower chainline than recommended as it lines up better with climbing gears, which are the gears you normally use most and want to be most efficient.

I'd actually argue that there is no ideal chainline unless you run singlespeed...
Click to expand...
This.

Was texting with someone about the same thing a little bit ago when they were mentioning drivetrain issues.

I can spend an hour in my 51t climbing and the chainline is horrible. Offsetting the chainline a few sprockets inward makes more sense. Places so much wear and tear on your drivetrain as well.

Here is a recent NSMB discussion around it:

Skewing chainline - NSMB.com Forums

nsmb.com nsmb.com
 
#12 ·
Travis1911 said:
That's a 52mm chainline, same as a Shimano FC-M100. Wouldn't you need to buy the non boost for a 49mm chainline?
Click to expand...
That's a fair question. I changed my Shimano crankset to a Canfield crankset (boost 30mm) to get a shorter crank length. Canfield cranks do not use spacers so I could not adjust the chain line at the bottom bracket. So I bought several chain rings with different offsets and experimented with what worked best. Not the most economical process.
 
#14 ·
hej from sweden, i've posted on another forum and didnt really get an answer, so i thought i'd try here!

I have a similar issue of like a space of a few mm when i install my cranks. This is how i have sorted it but i feel like the chainline on the easier gears (gx 12 speed) is bad, rubs alot. set up as follows:

Banshee Titan
73mm threaded BB with splined ISCG-05 i ‘plate’ with a oneup bash
XTR FC M9020- B cranks
XT BB.
i have from left to right crank arm, BB shell, spacer on the non drive side,frame, spline plate, another spacer, BB shell, weird spacer thing, crankset. seems overkill! suggestions?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I think your spindle is just too long. I don't really know a lot about the XTR cranks, as they are different from SLX/XT, but FC-m7120/FC-m8120 denotes a 55mm chainline for for SLX/XT. I would assume similar for XTR. You need a 52mm chainline.

It's rubbing bad on your climbing gears because the angle from your chainring to your climbing gears is too great, which I'm sure you've already deduced.
 
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited)
I didn't find XTR FC M9020- B but I did find XTR FC M9020- B1.

FC-M9020-B1

Says it's for a 53.4mm chainline. I don't know if that accounts for your extra space. Interesting enough, the FC-m9020 and FC-m9000 (non B1)both say they are for 52mm chainline. Makes me wonder how they are different.

Edit: looks like the FC-m9000 have a narrowed q factor and slightly lighter crank on the no drive side.
 
#17 ·
Hi Travis that is really interesting, thanks for the reply. I thought my spindle was too long too but was like 'how is that possible'

What is the best solution then with the cranks i already have? put all the spacers on the non drive side , then have just the splined bash plate on drive side?

alternative is new cranks? i like XTR :)
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I know with the XT and SLX cranks you are supposed to put one spacer behind the BB on the drive side for boost frames. I would assume the same for an XTR. I would maybe try spacing your cranks out on the non drive side and see how it feels. The only issue I have with that is if you read the link I have above, it kind of sounds like those cranks are setup to have the chainring 3mm outboard of normal, which you would think would equate to a 55mm chainline. I don't know why it's a 53.4mm chainline then. I'm sure someone else here knows more than I do.

If it were me I would try and sell those cranks and get the right ones. Best of luck though.
 
#20 ·
howsyourdad said:
hej from sweden, i've posted on another forum and didnt really get an answer, so i thought i'd try here!

I have a similar issue of like a space of a few mm when i install my cranks. This is how i have sorted it but i feel like the chainline on the easier gears (gx 12 speed) is bad, rubs alot. set up as follows:

Banshee Titan
73mm threaded BB with splined ISCG-05 i ‘plate’ with a oneup bash
XTR FC M9020- B cranks
XT BB.
i have from left to right crank arm, BB shell, spacer on the non drive side,frame, spline plate, another spacer, BB shell, weird spacer thing, crankset. seems overkill! suggestions?
Click to expand...
Beware that the splinet plate does not count as a spacer, the shell plus the plate measures 73mm! If your cranks are for 55 mm chainline I think you might need one none drive side spacer and two drive side spacers inside the BB-cups. (no personal experience with those though)
Anyway, I am running current generation shimano cranks with 52mm chainline wich I think is the better option for moste bikes with normal boost spacing.

Where are you in Sweden? I don't see many (any) banshees arond my neck of the woods.
 
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