Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

CGriffen

· Registered
2021 S-Works Epic Evo
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
So, I was JRA out on a ride and could not believe how terrible I felt. Just could not get any power down...was an odd noise and then I noticed I had to pedal hard to accelerate DOWN a hill...well....Cane Creek Quality!!!!


Image
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I'd check to make sure the BB shell is faced and both cups are working on the same plane.

What ever, Hambini ;-)

That was the first thing we checked. The bike is 100% correct (S-Works Epic Evo '22). There are two options - MFG defect or installation error. Real pain when you are miles from the trail head...short walk to the road however, thank god.
 
Bummer. I haven't walked out because of a BB since the isis days. Is it known who makes those bearings or do they keep that secret?
That isn't the bearing that failed. That is the threaded in cup to the frame that failed.

OP, how did you remove the threaded portion from the frame?
 
Redlands....It actually spun out quite easily with 2 fingers. Once we got the axle out of it.
My inner hambini (haha) wonders if the shell is oversized causing enough flex in the system to break the threaded/cup interface. But I'm not banging my hairdresser so what do I know.
 
What ever, Hambini ;-)

That was the first thing we checked. The bike is 100% correct (S-Works Epic Evo '22). There are two options - MFG defect or installation error. Real pain when you are miles from the trail head...short walk to the road however, thank god.
Its your frames fault. I had the same on MY22 epic evo frame set. The second frame had the same problem but not nearly as bad. However, the bottom bracket is showing wear only after 300km
 
I've had a problem with a cane creek product. They were fantastic to deal with. But in this case...

Thats not how bb fail, those broken parts are never supposed to move. That bb is trashed. I'd love to understand what happened. Who installed the bb?

Is it possible the bb thread was longer than the frame threads and they bottomed out? Then overtightened and made it buckle?

I really really wouldn't blame cane creek for this because what happened is absurd.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Odd. Just last week I had my new rear triangle replaced (first post on this forum was that JRA failure). Dont get me wrong, I ride this bike HARD. But, the catastrouphic failure was at a very odd time. One week after the rebuild - well, this.

This is the original failure of the frame.

 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Cleared - I agree, I am blaming the shop for this one. Then, another shop today was promising me up and down that the spindle (Rotor) was Dub....I actaully had to ask for a caliper to prove I was right that it was 30mm and not Dub....freaking joke. Then, the shop with the new BB (RaceFace was my only option for the time being) did not have the proper spacers.....
 
There are several failure modes I am aware of for a bottom bracket, including out of square interface, incorrect chamfer, incorrect material hardness, over and under torque situation and threads which are cut incorrectly causing stress risers. Usually the bottom bracket will work harden and then fail. If you inspect carefully you can see where the crack started. It’s called a propagation failure. Looking at the picture, it looks as though the crack started in the chamfer area indicating it was too shallow of a cut during machining or it was flexing under operation. If the frame interface was verified to be square (also, you can usually tell if you inspect the crank spindle - if it was out of square you will see wear marks on the spindle), that leaves the chamfer as the likely culprit.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
(also, you can usually tell if you inspect the crank spindle - if it was out of square you will see wear marks on the spindle), that leaves the chamfer as the likely culprit.
I am going to pull the spindle just to make sure. Today I only rode 30 some odd miles and I have a BB creak, while no uncommon on a new BB (break in period and seating) - I need to be positive it is not a frame alignment thing. When the rear swing arm broke who knows what other things may have gone out of way (really grasping there)
 
Hard to tell from the picture for sure. The non drive side looks pretty good, you can tell where the bearing race had contact, it’s pretty well defined. The drive side seems to be the same. I don’t see any score marks from movement on the inner race. I would tend to think it was a bad cup.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts