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OneUp Dropper V2

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#581 ·
minimusprime said:
Fwiw, on my megatower, my oneup v2 posts can start creaking about once a year. I wrap the bottom of it in teflon tape to stop it from chafing the inside of the seat tube. Wrapping the reduced diameter portion and the bottom portion with 1-2 wraps seems to do the trick. Getting it into the seatpost without ripping up the tape can be tricky, but it does work. In contrast, the other one up v2's I have, both on my rise and my giant trance advanced 29, do not have this issue and don't need the tape.
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Oddly enough I've had one in my Megatower longer than the Tallboy by about a year. It's never creaked, although I did have to fix it the cartridge rattle issue with the two wraps of electrical tape.
 
#582 ·
jeremy3220 said:
Oddly enough I've had one in my Megatower longer than the Tallboy by about a year. It's never creaked, although I did have to fix it the cartridge rattle issue with the two wraps of electrical tape.
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I think my issues is exacerbated because I have a 210mm post, as low as it can possibly go in my XL frame, before the actuator starts acting up. I think there is some weirdness to how santacruz does, or does not fully reem/finish the seat posts where the internally sleeved dropper remote routing comes out.
 
#583 ·
I just got a oneup 180mm dropper and it will not release (or takes a lot more pressure) when sitting with all your weight on the saddle. If you unweight the post and push the release it drops fine. It seems to happen at any travel.

I previously had a dropper that had the cable furrel end connected at the remote. I have reused this remote and soldered an end onto the cable so it works with the oneup post. I don't know why this would be an issue, but wanted to mention it.

Thanks for the help.
 
#584 ·
Anyone running a OneUp dropper slammed and having it sticking if you tension the seat post clamp? I just serviced my dropper with a v2 service kit and it's stiff to push down or up if I run it slammed which is the normal position. The old collar measures .98mm thick, the new one measures 1mm. If I clamp the dropper 1/2 or so from slammed, it works fine.

I'm guessing the dropper stanchion is getting pinched because the new collar is thicker. It ran fine for the most part with the old one. I guess I'll have to put hit the new collar with some sandpaper.
 
#585 ·
Trinimon said:
Anyone running a OneUp dropper slammed and having it sticking if you tension the seat post clamp? I just serviced my dropper with a v2 service kit and it's stiff to push down or up if I run it slammed which is the normal position. The old collar measures .98mm thick, the new one measures 1mm. If I clamp the dropper 1/2 or so from slammed, it works fine.

I'm guessing the dropper stanchion is getting pinched because the new collar is thicker. It ran fine for the most part with the old one. I guess I'll have to put hit the new collar with some sandpaper.
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I run mine slammed. No issues.
 
#586 ·
gocat said:
I run mine slammed. No issues.
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Well that's disappointing for me. I've always had it being finicky running it slammed with how much clamp tension is used. I originally had it on my FS carbon frame. I could torque the seat post clamp to 2.8Nm and it would not shift out of place under normal riding and it worked decently. I ended getting a Fox for the FS and moved the OneUp to the HT.

If I set the torque to above 2.6Nm with the new service kit, the dropper starts to stick. If I back off the torque, the saddle works normally but I can also rotate it easily in the seat tube. I've put back the previous collar for now. Ah well.
 
#588 ·
Trinimon said:
Well that's disappointing for me. I've always had it being finicky running it slammed with how much clamp tension is used. I originally had it on my FS carbon frame. I could torque the seat post clamp to 2.8Nm and it would not shift out of place under normal riding and it worked decently. I ended getting a Fox for the FS and moved the OneUp to the HT.

If I set the torque to above 2.6Nm with the new service kit, the dropper starts to stick. If I back off the torque, the saddle works normally but I can also rotate it easily in the seat tube. I've put back the previous collar for now. Ah well.
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I have the same issue on the v1. It makes sense since you basically clamping on the upper DU bushing, where there is the least amount of clearance for the post. Gotta use some assembly paste (fiber grip or similar) so you can get away with the lower torque on the seatpost clamp without the saddle spinning every which way. I am either going to downsize to a 150mm post myself, or track down some old shims and run it with less drop so it can stick up a bit out of the seat tube.
 
#589 ·
I'll continue to knock down the bushings to 0.98mm if they keep coming out in 1mm thick until I get bored and switch to another brand. I've tried the least amount of torque that will allow the dropper to work freely but with assembly paste etc, the seat rotates with a light bump.

Not being able to run your dropper slammed is a bit ridiculous. No knock on OneUp. I got lots of their other stuff and love 'em and have promoted them to a lot of friends etc. Never had an issue the past two seasons until the recent service kit fiasco.
 
#590 ·
OneUp engineered the V2 a bit weird (the upper bushing is responsible for restricting the max travel of the post).
So therefore the travel pins always crash into that bushing until they wander into it (which doesn´t take long).

Problem:
As soon as they do, the posts gets stuck somewhere in travel as the bushing is heavily deformed and hinders the posts movement.
Plus you´re getting ~175mm instead of 170mm of travel as the pins slide halfway into the bushing.

My OneUp 180 eats up the upper bushing like crazy, so I would have to exchange that bushing every other month(!), which doesn´t seem to be reasonable to me.

Poor solutions:
  1. OneUp first had sent me free rebuild kits
  2. then voucher codes for rebuild kits,
  3. I started to turn them upside down,
  4. or turn them a bit to give the pins a new place to attack
  5. sand them down when they´re deformed, etc
but this is all just treating the symptoms and not a long term solution.

Image



Is there another, better solution to this?
 
#591 ·
Aren't all the mechanical droppers designed like this ie use a bushing to stop the guide pins/keys? I wish there was a better workaround because I've had to do the same maintenance every couple months when the dropper starts getting sticky ie sand down the high spots, rotate it a little so the keys can start impacting a new fresh part of the bushing. It's worse when you run the dropper slammed.
 
#593 ·
My 210 has lasted 2-4 rides per week for 1.5 years without more service than opening the top and pushing in some slick honey. I just replaced the bushings, didn't notice what you are seeing though with the guide pins mashing into the top bushing....
 
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#594 ·
Trinimon said:
Aren't all the mechanical droppers designed like this ie use a bushing to stop the guide pins/keys? I wish there was a better workaround because I've had to do the same maintenance every couple months when the dropper starts getting sticky ie sand down the high spots, rotate it a little so the keys can start impacting a new fresh part of the bushing. It's worse when you run the dropper slammed.
Click to expand...
No, there are other ways to stop the posts extension, f.ex. put a topout bumper into the cartridge/spring as f.ex. the Reverb, forks and shocks have. OneUp 180s cartridge´s max extension is about 183mm, the bushing stops it at 180mm.


I´ve contacted them:
OneUp said:
Indeed the bushing is designed to be a replaceable wear item. rather than the top out contacting a less replaceable component of the post, the bushing takes the hit and can be replaced or cleaned up as you've been doing.

honestly, it's not common someone is able to wear them out that quickly. you must be getting a good amount of miles in.
Typically it will take 250-350 hours of riding to potentially require replacement. regular clean and grease will extend this timeline.
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#596 ·
jeremy3220 said:
Anyone try cutting the travel reduction pins to be able to adjust the travel in smaller increments yet? Bad idea?
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I've considered it a few times. I have a 210mm post and I have it shimmed down to 190mm in one of my bikes, and I could really run it at 195ish. I figure the best way might be to use a drill stop and drill 3 holes in a block of wood, that way you can cut them all at once and ensure they are all the same size. You'd still need to come up with a good process of rounding the edges, but I figured i'd tackle that if/when I ever decided to do it. I will say, i feel like it's going to be pretty hard to get those little buggers in there once they are cut down to 5mm.
 
#597 ·
hi all

just bought a new v2.1 150mm one from activesport uk and fitted today and its got some horrendous saddle twist and rocks back and forth thru the post.
i see there are some oversize pins to buy for them but they are sold in sets of 3 when this post has 4 pins i believe?
 
#598 ·
zstover said:
I just want to say that I love this dropper post. I have a 2020 fuel ex AL in M/L size. It came with a 130mm dropper with a really tall collar and a tall seat clamp. I had about 4" of extra seat post exposed.

After many trips to the garage to measure, re-measure, and measure again, I concluded that the maximum seatpost insertion that trek lists for this frame is extremely conservative at 280mm for the aluminum size M/L. I found no resistance or change in angle or diameter to over 310mm on this frame so I chose to order the 210mm version. Given my height, inseam length, and frame size, I am not able to use the full 210mm of drop, but shimmed to 190mm with the collar slammed to the frame put my seat height within ~3mm of where it works well for me.

Due to the much lower stack height and lower clamp height, I have gained much more drop than just the 60mm drop difference would suggest. It feels like a completely different bike. Before I always felt the seat and had concerns when hanging off the side or back of the bike. The extra drop allows me more comfort and confidence when using bike/body separation.

Return speed is better than the brand x that came on the bike and rotational play is lower as well. For $210 it's a super solid buy.
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Hey Zstover - Are you still liking the Oneup 210 on your Fuel Ex? I’m considering one for my EX m/l as well. Still can‘t believe that thing fits in our frame. Debating on the Oneup 210 and the BY 185. I would have sent you a PM but as a new member I’m not able to yet.
 
#599 ·
Would there be any reason to order the V2.1 actuator if I don't have any space issues? I didn't realize it was an upgrade and am expecting delivery of my 180mm dropper today. I would order it prior to install if there were any benefits other than space.
 
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