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Hello!
Thanks for all the useful information.

My bike is early 2021 model, size M, 29".
I purchased it second hand and you have already seen it on this forum...

Here are my notes and some questions.

Chainring
Has anybody tried to fit MT610 crankset chainrings to our MT510?
The only compatible 30t per Shimano web page is WP-Y0L330000.
The MT610 and MT510 crank itself looks the same, and the chainring seems the only difference.
Shimano has Chainring 34T for FC-MT610/FC-MT510-1 WP-Y0K434000 listed as compatible with both cranksets.
But the 32 and 30 models of the same chainring (WP-Y0K432000, WP-Y0K430000) are not listed as compatible. Seems strange to me, the interface should be same.
Look at the exploded view https://dassets.shimano.com/content/dam/global/cg1SHICCycling/final/ev/ev/EV-FC-MT510-1-4670.pdf
There is a quite interesting interchangeability chart in there. BUT the MT610 exploded view does not have it! Does the interchangeability work both ways for all parts?
MT610 chainring is more readily available at least in EU. For example Shimano Chainring for FC-MT610 - 1x12-speed - black

Drivetrain
The Deore drivetrain has been very good. The only real downside is that the chain seems to stretch quite fast. As far as I know it is cheaper in the long run to use the more expensive chains.
I don't have any chain drop problems when backpedaling on the largest cog. Some 1x drivetrains have this. I measured the chainline 52.5mm to the center of the teeth.
The XT shifter upgrade is a good one.
I swapped to 170mm cranks as well, feels better now.
A good budget option for cranks would be the Deore m6100 if you want to change crank length and/or chainring or chainring interface, but you wouldn't get any weight savings, the weight is about the same as the fc-mt510.
SLX if you want the weight savings.

Geometry
This bike has the Marzocchi Z2 fork at 140mm. (Axle to Crown: 550 mm, just 1mm over the max recommended)
Tires are DHF 2.5" rear and DHR 2.4" front (bigger in the rear steepens angles a little bit).
In this configuration I have measured the head angle at about 65.5 deg, which seems about right for 20mm longer than standard fork.
BUT!
However I try to measure the effective seat tube angle I get around 74 degrees or even a few tenths steeper. So just like the STa had slackened less than the HTa has which is impossible.
I know the measurements are quite fiddly and not very accurate, but seem consistent using different methods and repeated measurements.
The logical explanation would be that the given 66.5 & 74.5 specs are not very accurate, or might be rounded in the opposing directions.
At least to me this is good news, makes the bike just a little bit more "modern" than on paper.
And you can put a longer fork without the STa becoming actually "slack", if you are ok with the slightly higher stack and bb, and shorter reach.
Good catch about the angleset dave_rh! But I think I'm good with just the longer fork.
I also tried a 27.5 x 2.6" tire in the rear (Trail King which is quite big for a 2.6") with the DHR2 29x2.4 in the front.
This dropped the rear axle ~15mm and BB 10mm compared to the DHF 2.5. Theoretically this slackens the bike ~0.75deg, but haven't measured.
With the 20mm longer fork the BB center is still 312mm above the ground, so clearance is good even mulleted. The BB is higher in this bike than some other 29ers.

Cockpit
The handlebar is 760mm wide, NOT 750mm as in the specs and reviews. Don't know about the rise.
I'm using the original bar happily and not intending to switch. It measures 775mm with grips included which is good for this bike.
Have you measured yours?
The saddle is not great. My sitbones are not happy.

Brakes
I tried a Shimano 180mm disc in the rear with no problems. I used the Tektro 20mm adapter from the front. The pad alignment to the disk was perfect to me.
Note that the "up" arrow should be pointing forward if I remember correctly, which makes it point a little bit down on this bike, as the caliper is not in the seatstay but in the chainstay.
I don't know why user humanthing had problems with the 4-pot brakes, shouldn't they work just the same?
I also tried Shimano G03a and G04s brake pads. THEY DIDN'T FIT!
Looking at the confusing Tektro compatibility chart I thought they would fit. Though it didn't have HD-M275, instead HD-M285 is there. According to SOME source the calipers in those two should be the same.
B01s and B03s SHOULD fit, B03s being a newer version of the 01 afaik. Unfortunately these are not available sintered.
Have you tried non-Tektro pads? Does it improve braking force or feel?
Do you know if sintered pads can be used with the Tektro discs (after swapping to other brakes)?

All in all I'm quite happy with the bike.
The frame seems good, and I think the product range could very well extend way beyond this HT 1, with higher end components and a bigger fork.
As it is sold, it has quite good potential to unleash.

Next I need to dampen those damn rattling cables...
 
Discussion starter · #122 · (Edited)
Swapped my rear brake rotor from 160mm to 180mm. Highly recommended. Noticeably more powerful braking on long, steep, flowy tracks.

Used Shimano adaptor # SM-MA-F180P/P2, but any brand will do. It's installed with the "Up" arrow pointing towards the front of the bike (see photo)

Someone else reported issues with 180mm calliper clearance and uneven pad wear. I have not encountered those.

There is plenty of clearance (approx 7mm) between the seat stay and the brake calliper. Also plenty (about 6mm) between the rotor and the chain stay.

Image
 
Hi everyone.
I bought a Fluid HT from a private seller. Although the bike was preowned it had never been ridden so effectively brand new. I got it home and I discovered it is a 2021 HT2 model.

I thought I could simply remove the front wheel so it would fit in my car, only to find there is no quick release. I assumed it would have QR and all my previous bikes had it. Is this the norm these days, and can I get QR fitted, and if so, is this even recommended. If it is the norm why the change? Any feedback appreciated
 
Discussion starter · #125 · (Edited)
I thought I could simply remove the front wheel so it would fit in my car, only to find there is no quick release. I assumed it would have QR and all my previous bikes had it. Is this the norm these days, and can I get QR fitted, and if so, is this even recommended. If it is the norm why the change? Any feedback appreciated
To answer your question - yes there likely is a "qr" axle option you can fit to your fork.

I don't know why forks don't have levers anymore. Maybe its a looks thing? Some Fox ones still do, most Rockshox and other brands don't by default.

As to which axle... I'm not familiar with your fork. However I'm assuming :
  • It is the one on the Fluid HT2 web page: SR Suntour XCM32 LOR DS, 120mm Travel
  • it has a 15mmx110mm (boost) through front axle which requires an allen key to remove.
  • you would prefer tool-free removal of the front through axle - i.e. an axle which has an integrated (QR) lever
This page lists a bunch of axle options for SR suntour forks. Ones with levers seem to called q-loc??Q-LOC AND THRU AXLE SYSTEMS - SR SUNTOUR Cycling

Altneratley, if you can identify the thread pitch and length of your current axle you find something like this Twist Lever Thru Axle

This is a useful guide to identifying your axle length and thread pitch
What Axle Do I Need for My Bike? | The Robert Axle Project



Thread pitch - usually 1.0, 1.25 or 1.5
 
To answer your question - yes there likely is a "qr" axle option you can fit to your fork.

I don't know why forks don't have levers anymore. Maybe its a looks thing? Some Fox ones still do, most Rockshox and other brands don't by default.

As to which axle... I'm not familiar with your fork. However I'm assuming :
  • It is the one on the Fluid HT2 web page: SR Suntour XCM32 LOR DS, 120mm Travel
  • it has a 15mmx110mm (boost) through front axle which requires an allen key to remove.
  • you would prefer tool-free removal of the front through axle - i.e. an axle which has an integrated (QR) lever
This page lists a bunch of axle options for SR suntour forks. Ones with levers seem to called q-loc??Q-LOC AND THRU AXLE SYSTEMS - SR SUNTOUR Cycling

Altneratley, if you can identify the thread pitch and length of your current axle you find something like this Twist Lever Thru Axle

This is a useful guide to identifying your axle length and thread pitch
What Axle Do I Need for My Bike? | The Robert Axle Project



Thread pitch - usually 1.0, 1.25 or 1.5
Wow. Many thanks for taking the time to reply. Really helpful and will look into the costs for changing. Yes it is a Suntour XCM 32

Been trying to sort out the rotor rubbing the brake pad. Did the insert paper between the disk and pad on both sides at same time, press the brake and tighten the calliper trick. Which worked until I used the brake, then started to rub again. 😩. It’s slight and more of an annoyance.
 
Didn’t know it weighted so much. 3040g so 3kgs. It is a XCM LOR DS 120

With a lighter fork it would well over 14kgs.

The 2020 HT3 must be lighter than the 2021 HT2
It could be heavier, no doubt. I just have a 31lb full sus to compare it to and it feels a little lighter than that. I'd assume that in 120mm travel the suntour fork on your bike is about 3300 grams, where the recon is about a kg lighter (2200). 13.5-14kg might be a more accurate estimate of the current weight. If you really want to count grams though, I'd suggest getting some tubeless-ready tires and ditching those inner tubes to save ~400 grams of rotational mass on top of the added benefits of tubeless.
 
Interesting... a new angle set which fits Norco bikes, like the Fluid HT, with IS42/IS52 integrated headsets.

It looks like you can slacken your head angle by 1.3-1.7 degrees. So, your current Fluid HT with a 66.5 degree HA potentially becomes a 65.2 - 64.8 degree HA, baby Torrent!


I'm not in any hurry but will likely buy one at some point.
Hi all, new here. I have been silently following this thread along since I have been riding my 2021 Fluid HT since March last year. When 9point8 announced the new Slack-Rs which fit our frame, I was too curious not to give it a try, especially since I had originally wanted to buy one of the slightly slacker (~65 deg HTA) hardtails but none were available. Ordered the Echo kit (-1.7 deg) from their website and it arrived (to Australia) in about 1 week.

A word of warning for installation - the lower assembly doesn't fit into the frame due to the frame cup being too narrow. It will only fit with some sanding. How much sanding? Well the Slack-R lower assembly is 44.5mm in diameter and the frame cup area is 43.5mm wide. I decided to just go ahead and sand it off. It's 0.5mm of radius after all, so I figured the frame will be fine. I don't ride anything crazy anyway. So after a bit of sanding - I did it slowly so probably took me 1-2 hours while watching tv ;), the lower assembly fit in perfectly. My headset/stem setup is all stock, and after installing the Slack-R, I had to remove the two spacers (2x 10mm) and the stem fits on the steerer tube with no spacers and sits about 3-4mm above the top of the steerer tube. I don't like the idea of the stem not being completely clamped to the steerer tube so I have ordered a new stem which has a shorter stack height which should fix that.

How does it ride? Well I didn't want to ride anything too rough given the stem/steerer tube situation but the difference in handling is very noticeable. I will re-take more accurate measurements in the future but the HTA is definitely somewhere around 64.5-65 deg. The wheelbase is about 20mm longer also. STA seems mostly unchanged or has steepened to about 74.3'ish deg. The steering feels muuuuuch slower but more stable now. I feel like I will adjust to it in time. I also tested myself around some sharp 90 deg turns at home and I do find it a bit trickier to navigate. I'm on the stock X-Fusion fork btw. Will be keen to test it more properly (ie down hill on rougher stuff!) once I have changed the stem and will let you all know how it feels. So far so good though!

Cheers
Tim
 
Discussion starter · #134 · (Edited)
I've just got a HT3 with a few mods to it already. The forks are still the Suntour XCM32's but are absolutely ruined.
What forks have people change to and what do you think of the change?

What is the offset on these forks? Did they make much difference to the rake?
I'm now running some 130mm Fox34's with 44mm offset. Marzocci Z2's are basically the same fork with a different damper.

Both the travel increase and offset change has increased the trail (I'm assuming that's what you mean instead of rake). In comparison to the original fork, its definitely more confident on rough descending and fast flow trails. It's still quite manoeuvrable in tight twisty singletrack. I have not really noticed any issue with climbing, it still feels great.

Static Geometry: head angle is now 66 degrees. seat angle 74. Trail has increased from 109mm to approx 119mm. Wheelbase is probably 5-8mm longer. When you are riding it with fork sagged it feels similar to old fork however wheel feeling slightly more out in front.

with your new fork steerer, I would suggest adding a few extra spacers above the stem and cutting the steerer about 20mm longer than the old fork. If you ever want to fit an angleset at some point, it will need this extra length to make it work.
 
I'm now running some 130mm Fox34's with 44mm offset. Marzocci Z2's are basically the same fork with a different damper.

Both the travel increase and offset change has increased the trail (I'm assuming that's what you mean instead of rake). In comparison to the original fork, its definitely more confident on rough descending and fast flow trails. It's still quite manoeuvrable in tight twisty singletrack. I have not really noticed any issue with climbing, it still feels great.

Static Geometry: head angle is now 66 degrees. seat angle 74. Trail has increased from 109mm to approx 119mm. Wheelbase is probably 5-8mm longer. When you are riding it with fork sagged it feels similar to old fork however wheel feeling slightly more out in front.

with your new fork steerer, I would suggest adding a few extra spacers above the stem and cutting the steerer about 20mm longer than the old fork. If you ever want to fit an angleset at some point, it will need this extra length to make it work.
Thanks

Yeah, I have been looking into the slack-r headset and agree with having 20mm of steerer in reserve.

Does anyone know what the Axle to Crown dimension is on the XCM32 fork? I assume that a different brand of fork with 20mm more travel doesn't mean 20mm more fork length. I haven't even ridden the bike properly yet but I've got it in my head that I'd like it to be slightly slacker🤦‍♂️
 
Discussion starter · #136 ·
Thanks

Does anyone know what the Axle to Crown dimension is on the XCM32 fork? I assume that a different brand of fork with 20mm more travel doesn't mean 20mm more fork length. I haven't even ridden the bike properly yet but I've got it in my head that I'd like it to be slightly slacker🤦‍♂️
I don't know about the XCM32 but there is definitely a difference in A-T-C between a 130mm fox 34 and a 130mm rockshox revelation/pike - the rockshox is about 4mm longer.

Regarding your second question, I do know for Fox 34 (and likely the Revelation/Pike) it's the identical chassis for 120-140mm. The only thing that is different is the air spring. You can swap air springs and change travel of these forks. So a 130mm fork will be 10mm longer ATC than a 120mm fork when unsagged.
 
I'm now running some 130mm Fox34's with 44mm offset. Marzocci Z2's are basically the same fork with a different damper.

Both the travel increase and offset change has increased the trail (I'm assuming that's what you mean instead of rake). In comparison to the original fork, its definitely more confident on rough descending and fast flow trails. It's still quite manoeuvrable in tight twisty singletrack. I have not really noticed any issue with climbing, it still feels great.

Static Geometry: head angle is now 66 degrees. seat angle 74. Trail has increased from 109mm to approx 119mm. Wheelbase is probably 5-8mm longer. When you are riding it with fork sagged it feels similar to old fork however wheel feeling slightly more out in front.

with your new fork steerer, I would suggest adding a few extra spacers above the stem and cutting the steerer about 20mm longer than the old fork. If you ever want to fit an angleset at some point, it will need this extra length to make it work.
Unfortunately, I'm unable to buy brand new forks at the moment so have been keeping an eye on ebay, pinkbike... I have found some Rockshox Revalations previously fitted to a Whyte S150s. Plenty steerer left, boost, 42mm offset and 150mm travel. I could get a new air shaft to adjust the travel.
Would you say that a shorter offset is the way to go?
 
Discussion starter · #138 ·
Unfortunately, I'm unable to buy brand new forks at the moment so have been keeping an eye on ebay, pinkbike... I have found some Rockshox Revalations previously fitted to a Whyte S150s. Plenty steerer left, boost, 42mm offset and 150mm travel. I could get a new air shaft to adjust the travel.
Would you say that a shorter offset is the way to go?
In my personal experience, yes.

Also, the Torrent, Fuse, Roscoe (2022), Fathom HT's all run shorter offset forks of 130mm travel now.
 


Some pics from todays snow ride.
The mullet setup with fatter rear tire seems to work quite well in the snowy winter. For the summer I cannot say anything yet.
The Continental tires with Black chili compound also work well in the winter. The rubber does not get hard at all in the cold, which is not the case with e.g. the softer spots of Maxxis 3C compound tires. My recommendation for cold weather tire choice goes to Black Chili!

After my last post I have upgraded the saddle to Ergon SM Enduro Comp. Yes, it is an upgrade, but still a bit uncomfortable, seems not to fit my narrow sitbones quite right. It has good reviews, but after all a saddle is a very personal item and all reviews should be taken with a grain of salt. So beware if you also have very narrow sitbones in the 9-10cm range. WTB Volt narrow is the only one yet I know that fits me. In hindsight should have bought that, but wanted to try something else.
I now also have some Shimano B03S brake pads waiting to be installed, I think these ones SHOULD fit the Tektros, but we'll see. In the winter you don't need or can't use brakes anyway lol.
 
So I've decided to get back in the saddle after a few year hiatus, amazing what happens when your kids finally ditch the training wheels!

I've got a HT1 on order that happens to be arriving the day after we leave for a trip for my birthday that a new bike would have been good on :/

Anyway, just after confirmation on the brakes from someone with a 2021 HT1. The guys at the bike shop said the discs were standard 6 bolt discs. I've ordered a set of Magura MT Sport brakes while I wait for the bike to arrive, along with two standard 180mm rotors. I've since been on Norco's website that states the HT1 comes with centre lock rotors? Anyone able to confirm?

Thanks
 
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