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What is best way to prioritize frames and components when comparison shopping bikes?

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Virtus3

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
When comparison shopping for bikes how do you prioritize their specs to find the best value? My guess is below from most to least important; just curious if I'm on the right track or how others approach it.

1. Fit/Geometry
2. Suspension
3. Brakes
4. Drivetrain
5. Wheels/tires
6. Misc (seat, post, handlebars, stems, grips, etc)
 
#12 ·
One of the main things I look for is durability and “fixability”. The best place to go for that info is usually Facebook owners groups. Obviously you have to take everything with a pinch of salt, and you’ll have to wade through dozens of “what size dropper post” and “what are the best tyres” posts, but it can give you an idea of any problems you might run into.
 
#14 ·
This is harder than anticipated. I keep re-arranging things based on reasons that are hard to explain. Like, I don't consider myself a brand snob... but I won't buy a mountain bike from Motobecain... and probably not from a few other manufacturers that actually make decent bikes, simply because of horror stories I hear about getting warranty replacement, or other customer service issues.

The main constant I see is that getting the right frame is of utmost importance. It defines fit, and the usecase/usage (ie, get the right size, and style/travel of bike you actually need/want). Suspension is probably next, but also sometimes kind of not (ie, is it a Yari, where you can drop in a damper in the future with funds... or is it a Rockshox 35... with no upgrade path, and that sucks). Then wheels, brakes, then personally I don't care much about the drivetrain, or stem/whatever.

Something like this.

1. Fit
2. Geometry/Travel/suitability for intended bikes purpose
3. Brand reputation (customer service, reliability, etc)
4. Suspension
5. Wheels/tires
6. Brakes
7. Drivetrain
8. Misc (seat, post, handlebars, stems, grips, etc)
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Sparticus said:
Warranty / reputation might fit in there someplace.
=sParty
Click to expand...
I'm curious which of the smaller or DTC brands have really good reputations?

PhillipJ said:
I'd rather have nice wheels than a nice drivetrain.
Click to expand...
If looking at upgrades I would certainly put wheels higher than drivetrain but it seems like there is more variation in drivetrain components on comparable complete bikes. Are there any models you can think of that have significantly better wheel sets at a similar price point?

eb1888 said:
If you're doing a build you get everything right.
For a complete wheels are the last to be good. At the highest price point. And often not even then.
Click to expand...
This is what I was alluding to in the above comment on wheels. Doing a build definitely allows you to fine tune everything but doesn't seem like the best plan for a newer rider (returning to the game) in the current market.

ocnLogan said:
This is harder than anticipated. I keep re-arranging things based on reasons that are hard to explain. Like, I don't consider myself a brand snob... but I won't buy a mountain bike from Motobecain... and probably not from a few other manufacturers that actually make decent bikes, simply because of horror stories I hear about getting warranty replacement, or other customer service issues.

The main constant I see is that getting the right frame is of utmost importance. It defines fit, and the usecase/usage (ie, get the right size, and style/travel of bike you actually need/want). Suspension is probably next, but also sometimes kind of not (ie, is it a Yari, where you can drop in a damper in the future with funds... or is it a Rockshox 35... with no upgrade path, and that sucks). Then wheels, brakes, then personally I don't care much about the drivetrain, or stem/whatever.

Something like this.

1. Fit
2. Geometry/Travel/suitability for intended bikes purpose
3. Brand reputation (customer service, reliability, etc)
4. Suspension
5. Wheels/tires
6. Brakes
7. Drivetrain
8. Misc (seat, post, handlebars, stems, grips, etc)
Click to expand...
This is a good breakdown! I'm torn on wheels for the above mentioned reasons and had tires low despite their importance since they're easier and less expensive (relatively) to upgrade if needed.

It's tough with fit being so important when it's not possible to test many of the bikes you would be considering. Not even accounting for inventory shortages right now it's just really difficult for the smaller and DTC manufacturers who seem to offer the best value for money.
 
#16 ·
If you really want the best bike for you, build it up yourself.

Every single complete bike has a compromise.

usually the wheels and suspension are the first to get compromised, brakes are not far behind.

Companies usually splash on the drivetrain. But be careful, a lot of times it’s just on the rear derailleur because far too many people only pay attention to that despite the fact that it usually has the lowest impact.

Good wheels and suspension can follow you from bike to bike and can have a big impact on performance so I put a lot of priority on them, only second to the actual frame (because of fit and geo).

Don’t get too caught up in frame material. Carbon is nice, but so is aluminum and aluminum can allow you to budget for far more impactful upgrades.
 
#17 ·
From most important to least important:

Availability
Comfort (size must fit, geo must work for me)
Pannier mounts (I use my bike as a workhorse and bring it on camping trips)
Durability (steel is preferred, carbon is a nope for me)
Good wheels (must be tubeless ready, hubs must have good sealing)
Modern standards for good upgradeability
Brakes
Drivetrain

It's easy to tell I don't do much actual MTBing. The first four are must-haves, the fifth is a high priority, and the following ones are just bonuses.
 
#18 ·
Mines is:
1. Fit/Geometry:
This includes contact points like seat, stem, grips. Usually cheap to swap out to thicker/thinner grips, etc... I prefer aluminum frame because its better value. Going carbon may save around 1 lbs depending on how burly the frame is built.

2. Suspension: This is 2nd most expensive part and determines ride quality. I'm putting tires with this category since it also has large impact on ride quality but not super expensive to replace.

3. Wheels: Ensure the rear freehub is good quality. I've had a lot of after market and OEM freehubs fail within 1500 km. If freehub cannot be replaced, it gets costly to re-lace with new hub. Moved to DT Swiss 350 hubs as they die.

4. Drivetrain

5. Brakes
 
#19 ·
sillymonkey said:
3. Wheels: Ensure the rear freehub is good quality. I've had a lot of after market and OEM freehubs fail within 1500 km. If freehub cannot be replaced, it gets costly to re-lace with new hub. Moved to DT Swiss 350 hubs as they die.
Click to expand...
I fell like a lot the times the problem is that the freehub comes out of the factory dry.

Since the pandemic started, hubs are one of the components manufacturers seem to be cheaping out.
 
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