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Read the first post of this thread. The whole point was to create something you could quickly read and take action on. There is a link to a pressure calculator and recommendations for the damper settings.

You posted asking for help, without giving any real specifics about your current setup, bike specs, or your own weight. No one can give you help without all that.

Better yet, start with the first post, help yourself, then post if you find yourself needing more.

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ok, thanks. will try to use pressure calculator instead of the manitou guide and see if anything improves with my lsc. i am on ripmo AF, fork at 160mm travel. 170lbs rtr.
there is also rider on the 1st tab on same bike with same weight as me, so will go to his setup as a alternative (it does differ from calculated values quite a bit)

thanks again
 
Discussion starter · #482 ·
I wouldn't just pick one person's setup off that list, at least as a starting point. Same bike doesn't equal same preferences.

Start with my pressure calculator and general damper guidance and see how it feels as a baseline. Then experiment to your heart's content.

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Like I said, in the first post.

Simple enough: try riding with all dampers wide open (full fast). Give it a couple miles to see how it feels. Start adding some LSC first if needed.

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And remember, forks often bed in over the first 10 hours or so. I have found that with most forks, I end up adding pressure and increasing dampening after a few rides.
 
I just installed my Mezzer Pro but I noticed the wheel fits super tight into the lowers. Much tighter than my previous Fox, RS and MRP forks. I almost have to force the wheel in a bit. Can anyone confirm this is normal for a Mezzer? Starting to wonder if the machining on my lowers was not done right.
 
Discussion starter · #487 ·
I just installed my Mezzer Pro but I noticed the wheel fits super tight into the lowers. Much tighter than my previous Fox, RS and MRP forks. I almost have to force the wheel in a bit. Can anyone confirm this is normal for a Mezzer? Starting to wonder if the machining on my lowers was not done right.
It's normal. There is a lip that helps retain the wheel, with the axle removed.

In my testing, I found the lowest bushing drag with the wheel mating faces decked down until the paint was gone.

Image


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It's normal. There is a lip that helps retain the wheel, with the axle removed.

In my testing, I found the lowest bushing drag with the wheel mating faces decked down until the paint was gone.

Image


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Thanks for the image and confirmation! I almost couldn't get my wheel into the slot at first and was afraid to flex the lowers. Did you re-face the surface or was the paint worn away from riding?
 
Discussion starter · #489 ·
Thanks for the image and confirmation! I almost couldn't get my wheel into the slot at first and was afraid to flex the lowers. Did you re-face the surface or was the paint worn away from riding?
I made a tool to make facing them very safe and easy. PM me if you are interested in one.

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new owner of mezzer pro here. did setup according to the guide and i am super stoked about the for performance through chunk at speed. i cant however figure out how to get the fork work better at slow tech riding. there just seem to be too much low speed damping? even if my LSC is set to full open. is this something that can be further adjusted by IRT or dorado air chambers? what exactly do these two chambers do? what kind of adjustment to how the fork feels can i achieve, by changing pressure in either one?
thanks
What is happening at low speeds that you don't like?
 
ok, gotcha, good to know, so adjusting these two chambers will not solve my low speed compression problem i assume.
The Mezzer has excellent small bump and low speed. My buddy just sold his 38 because he felt how good mine was. I'm just giving you a starting point, you can drop a few psi off the bottom valve and fine tune the top valve to avoid bottom out, and you'll have all the plushness you've ever dreamed of.
 
What is happening at low speeds that you don't like?
I would suggest he's got a touch more compression damping than he needs. At high speeds it feels great but he'll notice it feeling too firm at low speeds.

Swap one 17mm shim for 12mm shim and the problem goes away.
 
Discussion starter · #494 ·
Thanks! I find it a little crazy you had make a facing tool for $1000 fork that should already be correctly faced and optimized. Do you think this may have to do with the pre-mature wear some of these fork?

There's nothing crazy about it. I didn't "have" to do anything. The fork is great out of the box. I'm an engineer and constantly try to optimize things.

All I did was carefully remove the paint with a tool I designed. This has nothing to do with wear. This isn't a wear surface.

What is crazy, is other $1000 forks from Fox and RS with bushings so tight, the friction is more than the damping.

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I would suggest he's got a touch more compression damping than he needs. At high speeds it feels great but he'll notice it feeling too firm at low speeds.

Swap one 17mm shim for 12mm shim and the problem goes away.
I'd love to do the shim swap, but with poor close-in eyesight and arthritic hands, it might be a real challenge.
 
Botched up the MezzPro fender today after riding through some peanut butter mud....
Anyone happy with an alternative fender?
How bad is it? The top hole pretty commonly breaks off, but it's easy to get it to stay in place with a fender washer under the screw. And also thanks for reminding me that I needed to order some more Sweat Busters :)
 
How bad is it? The top hole pretty commonly breaks off, but it's easy to get it to stay in place with a fender washer under the screw. And also thanks for reminding me that I needed to order some more Sweat Busters :)
Ha glad to help!

Both side mounts ripped off...overall i like the fender...my fault for trying to run through mud hole...things changed quick
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Image
 
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