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are you sure that's not crank/BB noise ? What happens when you bounce up and down, and then reverse the crank position and bounce up and down? Does it get louder when you pedal harder ? Does the tenor or prevalance of the noise change if you put the twin loc on lock out ?

What about if you stand next to the bike with the crank next to you in the bottom position, and lean the bike over and then stand on the bottom pedal and push down ? Does it make noise every time or do you have to alternate to the other side to "reset" the creak ?

Can you replicate it in anyway when you are not riding the bike ?

I had a creak I couldn't find for awhile - I put the front end in a bike rack so it was captured, held the top of the seat tube as hard as I could, and pushed the back wheel back and forth to replicate the creak and then have someone else determine exactly where it wsa coming from. I think in fact I had to take a crowbar and wedge it between the seat stays to recreate the creak. Don't reef on it or overdo it, but you do need to twist the bike hard enough to recreate the creak.

TBH I've had some creaking issues with this bike, and yet they always seem to come down to insufficient torque on the bearing or a bad bearing, so I ask myself is there really a problem with the bike ?

I find the rocker bearings to be especially problematic - the rockers seem to move too much for my taste even with new bearings, and seem to amplify any problems with movement in the other bearings.

It might seem strange that a new bike would have a bad bearing because it is, and I would be worried that some machining was out of spec or tolerances stacked up.

But we can't know that until you can somehow figure out where exactly its coming from. A creak always has a source and with good ears you can track it down, but for obvious reasons usually only once you can replicate the noise off the bike.
 
Does anyone know the max insertion depth of a dropper post for a Large Ransom? I have the carbon Tuned version but not sure that matters. Trying to figure out if I can install a 212 dropper post and still get it inserted all the way where the collar is bottomed out on the seat tube. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Is the RWC needle bearing kit a worthwhile upgrade?
Well, I got mine for free but I assume they're not too expensive and I think it makes the bike plusher. Only caveat is since installing it I had the shock bolt loosen a couple times. This never happened before. I've Loctited and torqued the hell out of it but now I have to keep a T30 in my hip pack in case it happens again.
 
Well, I got mine for free but I assume they're not too expensive and I think it makes the bike plusher. Only caveat is since installing it I had the shock bolt loosen a couple times. This never happened before. I've Loctited and torqued the hell out of it but now I have to keep a T30 in my hip pack in case it happens again.
I appreciate the info. I think it ended up being around $42.00 shipped. I will be sure to loctite the shock bolt when installing.

In case anyone was looking...

 
Put your finger on the bottom of the shock and lift the bike up and down such that you can fell the play. Your finger should be able to note if the movement is in the lower mount. If its in the upper mount then you have some issue with the needle bearing hardware (make sure the shock bolt is threaded properly and tight). Play could also be coming from a pivot but personally my pivots start squeaking long before they get loose..

most likely the play IS in the lower shcok mount - search this thread with the word IGUS and you should find some of my posts on the subject. Bottom line you can buy IGUS bushings aftermarket to fix the worn out ones and they are pretty cheap but you have to sand/cut them down in length. You could also attempt to buy bushings from a Scott dealer but I'm sure there will cost a lot mroe and most likely be difficult to get or come in an overly expensive shock mount kit that contains other pieces you don't really need.
 
Put your finger on the bottom of the shock and lift the bike up and down such that you can fell the play. Your finger should be able to note if the movement is in the lower mount. If its in the upper mount then you have some issue with the needle bearing hardware (make sure the shock bolt is threaded properly and tight). Play could also be coming from a pivot but personally my pivots start squeaking long before they get loose..

most likely the play IS in the lower shcok mount - search this thread with the word IGUS and you should find some of my posts on the subject. Bottom line you can buy IGUS bushings aftermarket to fix the worn out ones and they are pretty cheap but you have to sand/cut them down in length. You could also attempt to buy bushings from a Scott dealer but I'm sure there will cost a lot mroe and most likely be difficult to get or come in an overly expensive shock mount kit that contains other pieces you don't really need.
Thanks for the thorough reply. I loosened and retightened all my pivot bolts yesterday. I had a horrendous creak originating form the main bolt and was able to remedy the noise with some cleaning, fresh grease, and retorquing it. The vertical play in the frame remained when lifting the bike up either from the top tube or handlebars.

I will check for play by simply lifting the shock and report my findings.... thanks again!
 
It looks like you can no longer search directly in the thread so I looked it up real quick check out pot #715.

I"m impressed you could get rid of the creaking just by regreasing and re-tightening. I've had a lot of issues chasing down creaks on this bike (my only real complaint about the bike otherwise I still love it 3 years later) but I've found once it starts creaking I just bite the bullet and replace all the bearings whether they need it or not, although the main culprit is usually but not always the main pivot. I think that carbon "box" down there amplifies the sound and really a 6802 is not a big enough bearing for a main pivot IMO. I live in PNW with a lot of rain and mud and usually replace the bearings twice a year. That probably seems excesive to most people but it is what it is I can't stand creaking. I had to replace bearings a lot on my 2014 Specialized Enduro as well (which also used a 6802 as the main bearing) but they would just get loose and knock without any creaking so who knows !
 
Quick update, here. By tugging on everything I was able to localize the source of play to the top shock mount. I actually ended up removing it completely in order to try to install a sleeve a hair larger as I thought this might solve the issue. RWC claims that "some "bedding in" of the needle rollers may take place after the first couple of rides, after which you may need to install a larger OD inner ring". I attempted to slide in ++ sleeve as opposed to the + size currently installed, but the ++ wouldn't go in without forcing it. So I simply reinstalled everything as it was but torqued it like hell and now it feels good! I assume the top shock mount bolt was just coming a tiny bit loose with the lift served riding I had done over the past weekend. If the the bolt continues to loosen I might try to some loctite.

So many variables on these seemingly simple machines. More often than not the solution seems to be grease it or tighten it. Thanks for everyone's help!
 
^I did the same, including blue loctite and LOTS of torque. Still, it came loose occassionally and I got sick of that so I went back to the stock bushing and it hasn't come loose since. The smoother movement was nice, but not worth the worry and having to check that bolt and carry a T30 around. It was the only maintanence issue I have with the bike so better to just eliminate that.
 
Has anyone tried a works components angleset? I am thinking of running mine mullet in the high setting but using a +1or1.5* angleset (does anyone know how much the head angle changes going mullet) to keep the stock head angle and reach. Anyone tried this?
 
I haven't tried an angle set in the Ransom.
Have you tried it yet ? What head angle does it end up with after the 27.5 and flipping the chip ?
At least one person (I think StreetDoctor) claimed some satisfaction with running a mullett (and the chip in the high position).
He's moved on to a new bike (seems to be his jam) so I doubt you'll get any more info on how it worked out for him though.
 
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