I already have the oil change kit - where can I buy the oil itself?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Automotive oils are probably not a good idea, the performance envelope is completely different. Engine oils are designed for high temperatures, and gear oil is designed for higher loads, power, and rpm. Plus they often have seal swelling additives.Frame said:Would there be a problem with using a good automotive oil. My hub is due an oil-change. I don't understand what's so special about the Rohloff oil? Surely auto engines and gearboxes are far more demanding on the quality of the lubrication.
Seems like one of those situations where a company is hoping to make a mint on it's aftermarket products and accessories. Or am I being unfair?
Anyone using auto oil?
What about automotive automatic transmission fluid? I've convinced myself it's a good fit. I'm running my Shimano Alfine/Nexus and SRAM i-Motion 9 on Mobil 1 for about 1 year now. Shifts quicker and smoother, esp in the cold.itsdoable said:Automotive oils are probably not a good idea, the performance envelope is completely different. Engine oils are designed for high temperatures, and gear oil is designed for higher loads, power, and rpm. Plus they often have seal swelling additives....
That makes sense. I suppose I should use the Rohloff oil. I live in South Africa, my nearest distributor is many miles away, and is out of stock anyway. Speedgoat is also OOS, apart from the fact that ordering from overseas doubles the cost due to courier charges. I'll just have to be patient!itsdoable said:Automotive oils are probably not a good idea, the performance envelope is completely different. Engine oils are designed for high temperatures, and gear oil is designed for higher loads, power, and rpm. Plus they often have seal swelling additives.
A bicycle gear hub is a low speed, low power transmission, which works better with lower viscosity oils and MFR additives like moly.
As for the cost, it's not bad if you compare it to the hub cost, but I do find it expensive. But if you consider the relative small volume speciality manufacturing costs and stocking, and the little amount we use per year, I don't see them making much of a profit on it. Look at it from the corporate side, if you let people put their own mixture in the hub, warrantee issues can become a nightmare for a company that usually fixes anything that goes wrong internally in the hub.
St John Street Cycles in the UK always seem to have some in stock (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/).Frame said:That makes sense. I suppose I should use the Rohloff oil. I live in South Africa, my nearest distributor is many miles away, and is out of stock anyway. Speedgoat is also OOS, apart from the fact that ordering from overseas doubles the cost due to courier charges. I'll just have to be patient!
Shimano & SRAM hubs are grease hubs (except the new 11-speed Alfine), so you can use any gear oil on them. ATF is basically mineral oil, so it works fine. Because grease hubs are usually not very well sealed, you need to use a relatively viscous oil so it does not all run out. The Rohloff is an oil bath hub, designed to run a light oil.pursuiter said:What about automotive automatic transmission fluid? I've convinced myself it's a good fit. I'm running my Shimano Alfine/Nexus and SRAM i-Motion 9 on Mobil 1 for about 1 year now. Shifts quicker and smoother, esp in the cold.
Huh? Please explain... I can't even keep the stock factory grease in my i9; it bleeds out both sides and even drips on the rim from time to time. Where are you putting the tranny fluid that it's not just spilling out?pursuiter said:What about automotive automatic transmission fluid? I've convinced myself it's a good fit. I'm running my Shimano Alfine/Nexus and SRAM i-Motion 9 on Mobil 1 for about 1 year now. Shifts quicker and smoother, esp in the cold.
I didn't overfill it. Doesn't take much, I put 2 capfuls in. Did you know the disc attachment holes aren't blind but rather are open to the internal cavity of the im9 hubshell? If you don't put screws in 'em, water gets in and oil leaks out like a sieve....Speedub.Nate said:...Where are you putting the tranny fluid that it's not just spilling out?
wrt Rohloffs, that's one of the reasons - when your power output is so low that friction becomes a significant loss, you want to use a low viscosity oil with some sort of MFR. ATF's often have some seal swelling additives, which increase friction, and are not nice to composite parts (which are not an issue in auto transmissions). Nexus/Alfine/i9,.etc... are a different story.pursuiter said:...I was asking why Rohloff users don't consider ATF? ... The load on an automotive transmission is much higher than any IGH.
Shimano has an oil dipping kit for the alfine - take the unit out of the hubshell, clean, then dip the whole thin into an oil can, drain, reassemble. Sturmy-Archer users have been doing this for decades. There is enough residual oil on the metal surfaces to last a year of "regular" use.Speedub.Nate said:Please explain... I can't even keep the stock factory grease in my i9; it bleeds out both sides and even drips on the rim from time to time. Where are you putting the tranny fluid that it's not just spilling out?