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KP251 bolt retains Stages Hollowgram perfectly on SE1

This is BIG news! I'll order some crank bolts (KP251) and give it a go.
Thank you! :thumbsup:
Matt E.
The KP251 bolt worked perfectly, as described above. Thanks a bunch for showing me the solution that was right in front of me! :cool:









Thanks again, MTBR!
Matt E.
 
Following up on Rear Hub issue

Any help you can provide to point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. How would I identify whether it's a 370?

Edit: Found a recent thread on Teton. Looks like it won't be economic to do. Better off continuing on my current path, which is relacing with a MT901BS hub and selling off what's currently there.

Interestingly, from that thread it looks like I'm not the only one with an adverse opinion of DT Swiss.
OK,
I now have 200+ miles of trail on my SE1. The ONLY two issues I want to correct are: 1) weirdo handlebar results in odd backsweep and some wrist discomfort (easy fix); and 2) the rear hub. In fact, the rear hub stands out to me as a seemingly entry-level piece on an otherwise expert bike.

So, is the final answer that this hub cannot be upgraded? It needs to be replaced to get a higher POE?



Any and all advice welcome! Thanks in advance!
Matt E.
 
OK,
I now have 200+ miles of trail on my SE1. The ONLY two issues I want to correct are: 1) weirdo handlebar results in odd backsweep and some wrist discomfort (easy fix); and 2) the rear hub. In fact, the rear hub stands out to me as a seemingly entry-level piece on an otherwise expert bike.

So, is the final answer that this hub cannot be upgraded? It needs to be replaced to get a higher POE?

View attachment 1365461

Any and all advice welcome! Thanks in advance!
Matt E.
I have the Scalpel Carbon 2 - which came with the 370 equivalent and upgraded it to 54T star ratchet myself.

I didn't have any of the tools required really, except for a large (24") plumbers wrench I used to get the old pawl ring nut out of the inner hub - which you will need that thing is a pain to torque out. So I ended up ordering almost all of the part and tools and did it for around $300 or so.

Parts/tools needed:

New star ratchet free hub body - CompetativeCyclist.com

54T ratchet upgrade kit from DT swiss - CompetativeCyclist.com

star ratchet ring nut - Amazon (Send It Bikes Bike Shop)

star ratchet bushing/spacer - Amazon (Send It Bikes Bike Shop)

star ratchet shim/washer - Amazon (Send It Bikes Bike Shop)

pawl ring nut removal tool - eBay (I had very bad luck with this tool, I ordered a knock-off any it didn't fit into the ring nut, then I ordered what appeared to be a proper DT Swiss part, and had trouble getting it in as well - had to basically tap it in as far as possible but it happened to be enough to allow me to torque it out)

star ratchet ring nut removal tool - Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T6JFPCJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

cassette wrench - Amazon

large wrench - owned 24" plumber wrench

word of caution: need to make sure the shim/washer seats in the right spot and you don't tighten down on it when it's not in place. Also, don't put too much grease on the teeth of the star ratchet, it will be quieter but you might get more "floating" over the teeth then instead of instant engagement.

You can find videos online - here's one:
 
What is the rear hub on the scalpel HM 1 team?
In case you missed the follow-up posts, I was wrong. There is a way to upgrade, and I did it to my Carbon 2. If you have the HM1 you probably have the star ratchet hub already, though it may be a lower engagement profile, which is really easy to upgrade. All you'd need is the DT swiss 54T upgrade kit I think.
 
In case you missed the follow-up posts, I was wrong. There is a way to upgrade, and I did it to my Carbon 2. If you have the HM1 you probably have the star ratchet hub already, though it may be a lower engagement profile, which is really easy to upgrade. All you'd need is the DT swiss 54T upgrade kit I think.
That's true. Like I previously said, I have carbon 2 and HM1. Yes HM1 comes with 18t ratchet so easy upgrade.
 
I have the Scalpel Carbon 2 - which came with the 370 equivalent and upgraded it to 54T star ratchet myself.

I didn't have any of the tools required really, except for a large (24") plumbers wrench I used to get the old pawl ring nut out of the inner hub - which you will need that thing is a pain to torque out. So I ended up ordering almost all of the part and tools and did it for around $300 or so.

Parts/tools needed:

New star ratchet free hub body

54T ratchet upgrade kit from DT swiss

star ratchet ring nut

star ratchet bushing/spacer

star ratchet shim/washer

pawl ring nut removal tool

star ratchet ring nut removal tool

cassette wrench

large wrench

word of caution: need to make sure the shim/washer seats in the right spot and you don't tighten down on it when it's not in place. Also, don't put too much grease on the teeth of the star ratchet, it will be quieter but you might get more "floating" over the teeth then instead of instant engagement.

You can find videos online - here's one:
Perfect!
Thank you so much! I just bumped into this video with @Baltazar 's reply deeper in the thread.

One more Q: Did you source the freehub body and parts direct from DT Swiss, Amazon, etc?

Thank you!
Matt E.
 
I have the Scalpel Carbon 2 - which came with the 370 equivalent and upgraded it to 54T star ratchet myself.

I didn't have any of the tools required really, except for a large (24") plumbers wrench I used to get the old pawl ring nut out of the inner hub - which you will need that thing is a pain to torque out. So I ended up ordering almost all of the part and tools and did it for around $300 or so.

Parts/tools needed:

New star ratchet free hub body - CompetativeCyclist.com

54T ratchet upgrade kit from DT swiss - CompetativeCyclist.com

star ratchet ring nut - Amazon (Send It Bikes Bike Shop)

star ratchet bushing/spacer - Amazon (Send It Bikes Bike Shop)

star ratchet shim/washer - Amazon (Send It Bikes Bike Shop)

pawl ring nut removal tool - eBay (I had very bad luck with this tool, I ordered a knock-off any it didn't fit into the ring nut, then I ordered what appeared to be a proper DT Swiss part, and had trouble getting it in as well - had to basically tap it in as far as possible but it happened to be enough to allow me to torque it out)

star ratchet ring nut removal tool - Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T6JFPCJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

cassette wrench - Amazon

large wrench - owned 24" plumber wrench

word of caution: need to make sure the shim/washer seats in the right spot and you don't tighten down on it when it's not in place. Also, don't put too much grease on the teeth of the star ratchet, it will be quieter but you might get more "floating" over the teeth then instead of instant engagement.

You can find videos online - here's one:
Awesome!
Parts and tools all ordered! BTW, for those on an SE1, the Shimano MicroSpline freehub body and star ratchet upgrade kit were a bit less at JensonUSA. Ironically, everything is available in the next week or so EXCEPT the actual star ratchets. Will be a couple weeks.
Really looking forward to this upgrade.
Thanks again,
Matt E.
 
Awesome!
Parts and tools all ordered! BTW, for those on an SE1, the Shimano MicroSpline freehub body and star ratchet upgrade kit were a bit less at JensonUSA. Ironically, everything is available in the next week or so EXCEPT the actual star ratchets. Will be a couple weeks.
Really looking forward to this upgrade.
Thanks again,
Matt E.
It ended up being easier, less risky and cheaper for me to replace the hub, as I am enjoying the process of learning to build my own wheels to pro standard.

And now I have a near-silent 100 POE rear hub :cool:
 
Just checked stock online (dealer site) and the LTD has availability after 9/5. The SE1 available Dec (M/L/XL).

For what it's worth I just completed a build that started as a SE2 at 28lbs and finished at 21.67lbs. Only reused the frame, rear shock, and tires though.
Hi, when you were building your SE did you happen to weigh the frame?
 
SURPRISE Rear Hub Internals!

So, I accumulated all the parts and bits necessary to convert the rear hub from the 3 pawl to the 54T star ratchet on my 2021 SE1. I staged it all neatly so I could do a thorough "how to" post.



Imagine my surprise when I pulled the freehub away from the hub!



Rather than the three pawl system, I have the 18T ratchets. Perhaps this was a "mid-year upgrade" already?



So, easy peasy, I simply applied a light coating of "Special Grease" to the new 54T star ratchets and put it all back together (reused original springs and bushing).

View 12-sec vid:

Now, I guess I'll send the two ring nut tools, ring nut, bushing, shim, and freehub body back for refunds. Wow!

Matt E.
 
Dude!!! I'm gonna be so pissed if I have a ratchet drive! I just bought everything like you but haven't cracked it open yet.
You'll know as soon as you pull the end cap. With the star ratchets, the spring pressure pushes the freehub body out, revealing the star ratchets.
:eekster:

Yeah, I was really surprised... and momentarily pissed. After a few minutes I realized, "Hey, I learned a lot preparing for this. And I'll probably recover about $200." I'll keep the extra springs, Special Grease, bushing, and shim for future servicing.

All the best,
Matt E.
 
You'll know as soon as you pull the end cap. With the star ratchets, the spring pressure pushes the freehub body out, revealing the star ratchets.
:eekster:

Yeah, I was really surprised... and momentarily pissed. After a few minutes I realized, "Hey, I learned a lot preparing for this. And I'll probably recover about $200." I'll keep the extra springs, Special Grease, bushing, and shim for future servicing.

All the best,
Matt E.
You are correct there, I definitely learned a lot on how the whole hub works going through the research making sure I ordered all the correct parts/tools.
 
Does anyone have experience between the SE and regular 100mm scalpel?

I'm currently on the regular 100mm scalpel and curious how efficient the SE is mashing the pedals out of saddle with the 120mm of travel?

Debating on a 120mm fork for my carbon 2 or just going 120/120.

At this point I just swapped out the ocho for a Sid Ultimate 100 and didn’t really notice any difference besides the weight savings which is a good thing.
 
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