Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 158 Posts

Jonilink

· Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Recently had a warranty fix on my bike and the shop replaced my entire wheel. It has a Shimano Fh-mt200b I feel like there is ALOT of play where the chain doesn't engage.

Is it possible to replace this for one that will engage sooner. I'm not 100% sure I am asking this quest correctly this is the best way I can explain it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sounds like you're saying your hub has too few points of engagement (POE). That's the number of times the freehub will "catch" in 360 degrees of rotation. If a hub has 16 POE, it will catch every 22.5 degrees. I'm not sure, but I believe that is what your hub has, and I don't think it can be improved. Many/most hubs have higher POEs, some much higher. One set of wheels I'm using has 108 POE.

Somebody more familiar with that hub can tell you if it can be improved. Otherwise, you'll need a different hub to get higher POE.
 
No, Shimano hubs only fit the Shimano freehub for which they were designed. Nothing else should fit. Unfortunately there are hundreds of hub and freehub designs and none of them follow any sort of standard. You need to replace the whole hub. Some Shimano hubs are reliable, but the freehub mechanism on most is crap.
 
Yes. You can replace just the hub, but you'll likely need new spokes, and a decent mechanic will charge $50+ for the job. Unless you have a really nice rim, that's not worth it. Buying a new wheel makes more sense.

You have an Acera-level hub, which the bike manufacturer used because it's cheap and it is sufficient for most people buying bikes with Acera level parts.

You don't need a new wheel set, just a new rear wheel, for now. What bike is this?
 
be aware that a new wheel with better engagement can cost a good amount, depending on what you get. You're going to want to set yourself a budget and stick with it for this, but you will also need to be realistic with it. Part of that is going to depend on what the bike is.
 
You would need a hub that allows you to swap out the ratchet gear or the whole pawl. With hubs such as DT Swiss 350 or Hope Pro4, you can swap out the pawl or the ratchet for more engagement or just to replace due to wear. You can also swap out the pawl for XD and install a SRAM XD specific cassette too.

DT Swiss offers ratchet upgrades for the 350 series hub. I don't know for sure if Hope does the same thing. I think Hope has their hubs and pawls set to one specific setup unless they changed something recently. From what I'm guessing based on what you've said (and what others have pointed out), you want more engagement.

Here is a video how you can take the pawl apart on a DT Swiss hub. It gives you an example how DT Swiss rear hubs come apart for upgrades or parts replacement. I actually run DT Swiss 350 hubs on my road bike and mountain bike!

 
I don't know for sure if Hope does the same thing. I think Hope has their hubs and pawls set to one specific setup unless they changed something recently.
VERY few hub manufacturers allow you to change the engagement of the hubs. Most are either DT Swiss or use the same type of internals.

I9 did this for a time, but the way they did it was to just install fewer pawls on their hubs from the factory, and if you wanted more engagement, you could buy/install more pawls. But most don't do that.

OP has an inexpensive Shimano hub. If he wants better engagement, it won't be worth replacing the hub itself (rim will be pretty inexpensive/low end, and not worth re-lacing onto a different hub). He would need a whole new wheel, but it begs the question of whether even that is worth it for the bike. Most hubs with better engagement than inexpensive Shimano hubs are going to cost quite a bit more than that Shimano hub.

I found OP's hub for sale on ebay for $33. That's CHEAP. DT Swiss 350 rear hub on JensonUSA is just under $250. I'm going to guess that's unlikely for OP to be willing to purchase. More attainable would be wheels built on Bitex hubs from bikehubstore.com (can have them build wheels for $60/wheel), but at $110 for a rear hub, that's still many times the cost of OP's hub. And I dunno what the engagement on those is. I'm sure someone on mtbr knows and there may be a thread on them in the wheels forum.
 
VERY few hub manufacturers allow you to change the engagement of the hubs. Most are either DT Swiss or use the same type of internals.

I9 did this for a time, but the way they did it was to just install fewer pawls on their hubs from the factory, and if you wanted more engagement, you could buy/install more pawls. But most don't do that.

OP has an inexpensive Shimano hub. If he wants better engagement, it won't be worth replacing the hub itself (rim will be pretty inexpensive/low end, and not worth re-lacing onto a different hub). He would need a whole new wheel, but it begs the question of whether even that is worth it for the bike. Most hubs with better engagement than inexpensive Shimano hubs are going to cost quite a bit more than that Shimano hub.

I found OP's hub for sale on ebay for $33. That's CHEAP. DT Swiss 350 rear hub on JensonUSA is just under $250. I'm going to guess that's unlikely for OP to be willing to purchase. More attainable would be wheels built on Bitex hubs from bikehubstore.com (can have them build wheels for $60/wheel), but at $110 for a rear hub, that's still many times the cost of OP's hub. And I dunno what the engagement on those is. I'm sure someone on mtbr knows and there may be a thread on them in the wheels forum.
My friend was in the same boat. His rear hub went out and wanted to get a SRAM or Shimano hub to replace it. I told him it's not worth the money because they aren't exactly the greatest quality. He would have to pay a shop to lace up the new hub and probably replace a couple other bits along the way which would add up in cost. I told him it would be way cheaper to just find a used wheel set that has better hubs like DT Swiss and what not.

I actually rode 200+ miles on a 54 point engagement Bitex hub and they are very good quality. I was rather surprised. The anti-bite technology actually works. My cassettes slide off without getting stuck on the pawl. I also love the sound that the hub makes too. Op can probably speak with Wayne at Speed Gear Bike Shop and have a wheel set built up for $300-400 range using Bitex hubs and Stan's rims. Wayne can build them in boost, non-boost, and in any width needed.

I still have my Bitex XD boost hubs in my garage from a previous build. If the OP wants them, I'll sell dirt cheap but they would need an XD cassette. I have less than 30 miles on them.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Norco Fluid HT 4 27.5
I understand it's considered entry level but Its a massive upgrade to what I had before.
I've allready upgraded the fork to a suntour raidon much lighter than the coil spring that came stock. Added a dropper as well
Image


This is an older picture the rear wheel is now an WTB st i29 light
 
Norco Fluid HT 4 27.5
I understand it's considered entry level but Its a massive upgrade to what I had before.
I've allready upgraded the fork to a suntour raidon much lighter than the coil spring that came stock. Added a dropper as well
Image


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok, that's good to know. It's not entirely about how much you spent on your bike, but it's also useful to know what the manufacturer specs for the top trim for that model. If the top trim for the model is $500, I sure wouldn't be spending $300+ on a new wheel. But considering that the bike you have is just a lower trim of a bike that Norco sells for as much as $1700, that's a good reference and points to it being a more upgradeable platform.

You still need to figure out a budget for this, though.

With 9x141 hub spacing, your hub options will be limited. Not many budget hubs will fit that spacing. Boost hubs with swappable end caps will do it (even if the hub isn't sold in a specific 9x141 trim, swapping the thru axle end caps for qr end caps for a boost version of the hub should work).

For example, it looks like the Bitex hubs I referenced don't have swappable end caps. Battery should be able to confirm, since he says he has some. But for those, I don't see a 9x141 option. DT Swiss does swappable end caps. Hope does. Industry Nine does. That makes them all easy to fit into a 9x141 frame. But they're also much more expensive hubs that'll result in a much more expensive wheelset.

It's also worth noting that the bike looks to be a 27.5+ bike. Looking at the spec, I can't tell who makes the rims. "Alloy XD26" is pretty meaningless. Might be worth getting a whole wheelset because better rims could certainly be worthwhile. Spec does say that they're 30mm internal width, which is on the narrow side for plus rims, too. I'm using 30mm rims with 2.6" tires, and a fair number of people say that I should even be using wider rims. If you went with new rims on both wheels, you might be able to get wider ones (say, 35mm) for the same weight, or keep the same width rims and get lighter ones.

Of course, all this pushes the cost higher. Is getting a better-engaging rear hub worth this expense for you? What are you willing to spend?

You've certainly dived into the rabbit hole of upgrades. This is why I've just bought a frame and built it up how I like to begin with for my last 3+ bikes (I say + because my commuter has been rebuilt through a few iterations as my needs have changed over the years, and I think I might be changing the wheels to suit other needs soon).
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
I remember reading that thread awhile back when my original hub went out. I still want to get the most out of this bike if I can.

This is the current rear wheel
Image


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is a very interesting topic...

as I dove briefly into upgrading hubs or whole wheelsets for my bike (18 timberjack gx1, 27.5 i41mm with src hubs 148x12, ~$1400)
I noticed, too, that you can't easily just get better hubs, and that it's hard to find upgrades that are priced for my bike's price range.
 
My vote is for leaving them alone.

-keeping on the gas is good practice, and low engagement is a reminder to do so
-those wheels are cheapo-depot, but they're not going to hold you back. If you're progressing quickly you're gonna mess up a wheel eventually... might as well be these.
-there aren't any good 141mm hubs anyway
-that WTB rim is quite good. Replacing the hub will require you to replace the spokes or hang up a good rim.
-going whole-hog on upgrades isn't a good way to do this. You end up buying 2 bikes.

it may be possible to buy a boost 148mm hub, and then use the qr endcaps for that hub.

Looking at the spec, I can't tell who makes the rims. "Alloy XD26" is pretty meaningless.
Most likely alex xd-lite rims. They're fine.
 
My vote is for leaving them alone.
kinda where I was going. possible to upgrade, but a pretty expensive change, especially for a low-midpriced hardtail.

-there aren't any good 141mm hubs anyway...

it may be possible to buy a boost 148mm hub, and then use the qr endcaps for that hub.
kinda contradictory. I get your point about there being no good MIDPRICED 141 hubs, though. There's plenty of cheap oem stuff. And the top shelf stuff with swappable endcaps that'll most likely work.

Most likely alex xd-lite rims. They're fine.
That was the closest thing that turned up, but it didn't match exactly with rim spec, unless it's an oem thing not listed on their website (which happens often enough in those cases). Still, it irritates me when bike manufacturers list a spec don't don't actually tell you what it is.
 
1 - 20 of 158 Posts