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can anyone tell me how these compare to the Guide RSCs? Do they provide more stopping power?
I installed the XT 4 pot M8020s on Friday and got a couple rides in this weekend. The XTs definitely bite harder. My perception is that it takes a lot less force to lock the wheels up than with the Guides. On the Guides I would have to pull the levers damn near to the bar to lock up a tire. I would actually have to consciously think about it if I wanted to skid. The XTs have a strong initial bite but also modulate nicely until lockup. They require less force overall and have a nice light feel.
 
Nope. Not a 'bleed problem'. I spoke with a very helpful dude at Shimano Warranty USA (probably too helpful) and he said that it is a design issue, and they are "constantly back ordered on levers to keep up with warranty demands".
Did he say if this issue was resolved via warranty or if it was just a design issue we have to deal with?

can anyone tell me how these compare to the Guide RSCs? Do they provide more stopping power?
Yes, significantly more.

I feel they modulate well enough, but the added power is really nice. They aren't as grabby as I expected and I didn't have to adjust my riding too much compared to the guides, but I could get away with just about anything on the Guides with brake power down. These do require more modulation with your fingers and more careful application of the brakes, but I found it an easy adjustment even on slower technical sections.
 
Can someone tell me please how’s the XT 4 pistons compare to Sram Code R in terms of power-modulation-reliability? My next bike (Bronson V3) comes with Code R, but my LBS offered to replace them for the XT 4 Pistons free of charge.

On my last bike i had Guide R and i had many problems with them, in the end i had to fix them, but when they worked i really liked the modulation compared to the XT 2 pistons i tried (didnt like the ‘on\off’ feeling).

Im sure the Code R are powerful and having nice modulation, but unless they’re super reliable, im thinking to go with XT M8020, hoping they are reliable, having more modulation and power compare to the 2 piston version i tried. I would like to have brakes that works and i can trust them, without thinking if they’ll hold the all day or will brake down while im riding…
 
Can someone tell me please how's the XT 4 pistons compare to Sram Code R in terms of power-modulation-reliability? My next bike (Bronson V3) comes with Code R, but my LBS offered to replace them for the XT 4 Pistons free of charge.

On my last bike i had Guide R and i had many problems with them, in the end i had to fix them, but when they worked i really liked the modulation compared to the XT 2 pistons i tried (didnt like the 'on\off' feeling).

Im sure the Code R are powerful and having nice modulation, but unless they're super reliable, im thinking to go with XT M8020, hoping they are reliable, having more modulation and power compare to the 2 piston version i tried. I would like to have brakes that works and i can trust them, without thinking if they'll hold the all day or will brake down while im riding…
Not what you're asking but how about swapping them to Code RSC's? They're a bit nicer than R's as you can adjust the contact point. Codes don't have any issues like the first version Guides did.
 
Not what you're asking but how about swapping them to Code RSC's? They're a bit nicer than R's as you can adjust the contact point. Codes don't have any issues like the first version Guides did.
The Core RSC will cost me extra while the XT's are free of charge. If i need to pay more for new brakes, i'll go with Magura MT7 instead... but good to know the Code's dont have any issues compare to the guides i had.
 
I recently moved from m7000 slx to shimano zee 4-pots. I thought it would be a substantial upgrade due to my clyde-ness. Its only been a week or so, but thus far I dont think its worth the extra upcharge. Granted I dont do very long downhills, but the 2 pot shimanos have always worked well for me. I do like the modulation on the zee, but I also thought the m7000 had good modulation compared to the earlier m785 range. For a 165 pound rider, I think youll be fine with the 2-pots. Get bigger rotors if you want.
 
^ I have found that if I "over fill the system" by using the Shimano funnel to add fluid to the levers with the wheels installed on the bike in order to do the popular "5 min Shimano lever bleed" trick, then the variable dead band change is at its worst.

So now I only add fluid and/or "flick the lever to bleed it" after the pistons have been pushed back into their bores and then the yellow bleed block installed.

I believe this insures the correct fluid level, and what Shimano does during manufacturing.

While that hasn't completely fixed the issue for me, it does reduce it by a noticeable amount.
I think you are on to something here. I read in another thread someone had the same experience and observed that with the topped off reservoir, the pistons have a more difficult time retracting. It kindof makes sense, I suppose, the fluid seems to thicken when it's cold and I could see a situation where it can't retract back into the reservoir fast enough when there is excessive oil and not enough space.

I have two other friends that use the same brakes and haven't had this issue, one said it happened a few times when she first started using them, then stopped. Another said it was never an issue.

I experimented with the process that the Syndicate mechanics used and published on YouTube a few months back, which is basically a gravity bleed with the bleed nipple removed entirely, followed by what amounts to a bleed using new pads or the bleed block (they used new pads but I think the difference is negligible). They also bleed with the freestroke fully out, then close it while doing the lever portion of the bleed. I tried this and, so far, there has been no issue and the amount of stroke change I get is negligible even in colder temperatures.

The worst time I noticed this was when I did a full Shimano bleed, using their instructions, followed by the reservoir top off technique with the pads in. I think people use this to get a tighter lever feel, but it seems odd to me that it would be necessary to do as the pads wear, that'd be a pretty big design deficiency IMO. Later, I went to bleed them and removed the bolt on the lever and the system was pressurized. The extent to which I had lever issues was the highest at this point.

I have a spare M8020 rear that I will experiment with this on once it gets cold enough again.
 
This "overfilling logic" could also explain why this wandering bite point appears on hot(ter) conditions; When the brake is used heavily, the fluid expands when it heats up, but if the reservoir is overfilled, it has nowhere to go causing the bitepoint to move inwards...
 
Installed an 8020 on the front of a new bike. First ride today. First bit of chunky descent the rattling coming from the front end was obscene. Took me a minute to figure out it was the pads rattling.

Finished the ride, came back and googled to see if it was 'a thing'. Some people had luck wrapping the cooling fins with something to damp the vibration. I opted to hacksaw the suckers off.

Next ride tomorrow. We'll see if that solves it...
 
The laws of physics tell me that 4 piston won't help unless the coefficent of friction is improved with a grippier pad compound. Assuming a more grippy compound doesn't last as long, the advantage of the 4 will be equal pad life with improved braking. You can also get 11% more leverage going from 180mm to 203mm.
 
The laws of physics tell me that 4 piston won't help unless the coefficent of friction is improved with a grippier pad compound. Assuming a more grippy compound doesn't last as long, the advantage of the 4 will be equal pad life with improved braking. You can also get 11% more leverage going from 180mm to 203mm.
This assumes that the piston area at the caliper is equal between the 2 and 4 piston brakes. In the case of Shimano's brakes, the 4 piston models have more piston area which results in more leverage and a higher clamping force at the caliper assuming you squeeze the brake levesr with the same amount of force.
 
Higher clamping force, but also higher area. It would need to be a higher pressure to have the effect you are referring to, but then you run into issues with supplying enough oil. The lever side hasn't changed in that regard.
 
Shopping for brakes for my Krampus. Going to be set up for bike packing. I'm 235, plus bike plus gear. Thinking the new XT's are the way to go. I usually run 180/160 rotors front/rear. Thoughts please.
I weigh less than you do and so does my (unloaded) bike. I run 203f/180r rotors and wouldn't consider smaller ones, so I recommend these or 203/203.

As for 4-piston or 2-piston, I can't say as I haven't used 4-piston calipers yet. However I do believe that larger rotors improve braking power more than increasing the number of pistons.
=sParty
 
He's probably not bombing through the gnar on a krampus.

Having recently moved from m7000 SLX to a pair of Zee brakes, I have to say I'm not all that impressed with the four piston stuff. Theyre nice brakes, dont get me wrong, but I dont know that they're worth double the price. Granted I haven't used them on any substantial downhill sections yet, so maybe I'm missing out on their intended use, but as a trail brake, I'd probably just save the money and go m8000 if I were to do it over. But if youre gonna be using the krampus for bikepacking and light trail the 4-pots are certainly more than youll need in my opinion.
 
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