Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Tubeless Troubleshooting-Valve Leakage

Jump to Latest
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
sturge said:
A couple of years ago I used Stan's conversion kit on my 26" Heckler...I had non-tubeless rims (Azonic Outlaws) but they were one of the rims referenced on the Stans conversion website so I tried it. I bought the 'All Mountain' kit and after opening it I discovered it had schrader valves on rim strip which surprised me but I went with it.

This was my first tubeless setup so I was learning too. I was also surprised at the narrow tape width but I focused on a good seal around the spoke holes and did not worry about getting it all the way to edges of rims. I followed Stan's video's....totally cleaned rims with isopropyl alcohol, cleaned off any burrs, and verified the valve stem hole was big enough for Schrader, etc. I checked for leaks with soapy water and appeared to be good to go.

First ride I had same issues as you. On one tire there was a slow leak around the valve stem. Over time I was able to work in sealant and it eventually sealed up very well. I was concerned every time I topped off air pressure being afraid of disturbing the seal around valve stem but the problem went away...the sealant did it's job.

Sounds like you have done a good job setting things up and just need to solve this one slow leak. I would give it time and ensure you have enough sealant inside to let it do it's thing to seal the leak vs a total 're-do'.

You mentioned difficulty with using compressor for Presta valves...go to Walmart or any 'big box' sporting goods store and get these:

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-23042-...=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B007OX6E3S
Click to expand...
I had one of those with a hand pump several years back and was always careful to keep track of it because all my bikes were Presta. I figured I could find something at HD or somewhere, but didn't realize anyone sold them individually. Great find.

And thanks for the reassurance. As noted above, I loosened then snugged the nut and spun and bounced the tire to splash sealant around and around the valve stem and so far so good.

I did not realize or remember that the Stans Kits were for converting non-tubeless. I just thought it was a handy dandy way to get all the chit you need in one place. I was aware that it used rim strips vs. individual valves, but thought that could only be a help.

Thanks for all the input on my redundant, repetitive thread.

As with everything, I'll know better next time.
 
#22 ·
TwiceHorn said:
It seems that these Stans kits are somewhat outmoded by the new wider rims. The rim strips, which do seem like a good idea, seem to be wide enough, but the narrow tape they sell with it seems dumb, for lack of a better term.

I'm gonna be kinda pissed if I have to redo this.
Click to expand...
I feel the same way. Stan's tape is like old typewriter correction tape, crinkly and flimsy. Duct / Gorilla tape seems a lot more solid.

I had a weird issue as well with the valve stem, it would not hold more than about 25 psi when I tried to pump it up to get rid of a wobble. Once it got to a certain psi the valve started leaking and then stopped after a while. Very frustrating. I'd love to go tubeless permanently but so far it's been a lot of problems, even when 'professionally' done by an LBS. To me the only advantage is weight loss of about 1/2 pound per tire from no tube, otherwise I don't feel any performance difference (I feel the ground more with no tube, but downhill times are not any better), and I can get a 2.5 front tire down to 14-18 psi with a tube and no flats. Sorry, I'm not 100% done drinking the KoolAid on tubeless yet.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#23 ·
TwiceHorn said:
Well, then, furk Stans. I know there are many threads on tubeless topics, but it is difficult to wade through page after page until you find your solution.

So is the consensus that Stans tubeless kits suck? Because it seems like they do.

Are the rim strips a positive or negative?

What's the generic name for that tape? Looks like it's this stuff that is the best compromise between stick and toughness and ease of removal. https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-...Ivory/dp/B00B4Y2SFG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542729390&sr=8-1&keywords=Tesa+4289
Click to expand...
Wouldn't it be so nice to have a sticky on this forum with all major tubeless methods, including a detailed video (or two) and a troubleshooting list for each? Instead of it being fragmented into 100 threads of varying opinions?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#24 ·
Perhaps I have been fortunate. I have been tubeless for many years and many, many miles with lots of tubeless tire installs, swaps and more installs.

I have experienced very few difficult situations. I seem to feel that it's more about finding a technique that works for you more than a specific application that works. There's too many variables to assign a method to any one variable or issue that arises.
 
#25 ·
I was confused by how you taped the rim. You state there was no real 'well, so you doubled it up to cover both sides of the spoke hole. Where I am confused is if you ran the tape up to the bead or not.

I too had to run double tape on my Specialized wheels with 1" Gorilla Tape. This made a fantastic seal as the double layer was thick and the beat seated no problem.

As mentioned previously, air is likely seeping beyond the tape and escaping through the valve hole. To tighten the valve, press on it as much as you can from the inside and snug up the nut. Do not use tools.
The bike I ride now is my only tubeless experience, which I set up. The specialized valve seal is silly. I went and purchased the loose bin Stans valves and have not had a problem in 2.5 years. Not sure what the problem is with the other folks. "They suck" don't really shed light as to why they are not reliable.

I would not recommend using Gorilla Tape, now that I have the experience with it. It worked perfectly, however when I broke down the wheel to retape, the glue removal process was not worth the money savings between proper tape and Duct Tape.

I do not envy you for having to redo the tape, but to me it sounds like the way to go. Again, I only have experience with the one wheel set, and 2 sets of tires (same brand tires both times).
Just prep the rim surface before taping.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Forest Rider said:
I was confused by how you taped the rim. You state there was no real 'well, so you doubled it up to cover both sides of the spoke hole. Where I am confused is if you ran the tape up to the bead or not.

I too had to run double tape on my Specialized wheels with 1" Gorilla Tape. This made a fantastic seal as the double layer was thick and the beat seated no problem.

As mentioned previously, air is likely seeping beyond the tape and escaping through the valve hole. To tighten the valve, press on it as much as you can from the inside and snug up the nut. Do not use tools.
The bike I ride now is my only tubeless experience, which I set up. The specialized valve seal is silly. I went and purchased the loose bin Stans valves and have not had a problem in 2.5 years. Not sure what the problem is with the other folks. "They suck" don't really shed light as to why they are not reliable.

I would not recommend using Gorilla Tape, now that I have the experience with it. It worked perfectly, however when I broke down the wheel to retape, the glue removal process was not worth the money savings between proper tape and Duct Tape.

I do not envy you for having to redo the tape, but to me it sounds like the way to go. Again, I only have experience with the one wheel set, and 2 sets of tires (same brand tires both times).
Just prep the rim surface before taping.
Click to expand...
No I did not do it to the bead. I just covered the spoke holes with a few mm each side of them.

Remember this is a KIT, which I am realizing/remembering really isn't suited for tubeless-ready rims. The tape that comes with the KIT is only 12mm wide, which I guess was geared for old rims with a narrow well containing the spoke holes? But it has the rim strip, so I don't think the tape has to bear the full pressure of the air.

Anyway, it's held air for 3-plus days now and a couple of short, pretty low-key rides, since tightening up the valve nut and spinning/bouncing it around.

I'm going thru my tires like poop through a goose thanks to the torrential rains here the last couple of months or so, so I will have the opportunity to redo this sooner than later and I will use "bead-width" tape and maybe discrete valves instead of the strip valves. Hopefully my new tires are a bit more pump/CO2 friendly.
 
#27 ·
I suppose as long as you are using the rim strip, the tire should form a good seal against that. I was thinking the tire was mating directly do the aluminum surface.
Hopefully in time, any small voids will be sealed, or nearly sealed, with your sealant.

I do need to air up tubeless tires at least once a week. Depending on what todays ride will consist of, I may not check air if it's only been a few days.
 
#28 ·
Yes, correct tape width does help a lot with tubeless setup :) As for valve leak, it usually happens if you start taping the rim near valve hole, go around and then finish with cross over the tape. End result is that you have double thick tape across valve hole and then hand tightening the valve (must use pliers) is usually not enough because of the double thick tape around valve hole. Solution is to start taping rim on opposite side of valve hole so you end up with single thick tape over valve hole.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I'm not sure I agree with that. I like having the double layer at the valve.

If anyone is still using Stan's valves and you have not yet tried Truckerco valves, do yourself a favor and try em. I have ZERO tubeless problems on every wheel... Fat, plus, regular mtb... I only wish Truckerco made a tube so I could split it for Surly rims. The valves on the tubes look like Stan's valves and annoy me.
 
#30 ·
Using pliers to secure a tubeless valve stem should be done with caution.

Safe if you carry pliers in your pack. If you don't have a way to remove the overly tightened valve stem there could be an issue removing it to install a tube in the field.

Just something to keep in mind.
 
#31 ·
Just to add my 2c worth, on the tubeless conversions I done I've used various brands of tubeless valve but I've always cut a square of approx 15-20mm from an old inner tube, punched a hole through it (smaller than the valve stem diameter) and used this as a washer between the rubber on the valve and the tape/rim. Also after a day or so I check that that the valve lock ring is still hand tight as everything seats in. After 2 years on one set of wheels, I've never had air leak from around the valve.
 
#34 ·
I always dab on a little RTV silicone, or even bathtub caulk for where the valve base meets the tape/hole. I would try sealing the valve base to the tape/hole before cleaning off and retaping.
Last time I taped, I heated up an empty 22 shell (holding it with pliers) to make the hole in the tape; that worked well.
My Vittoria tires hold air the best (not as good on the cx bike). I have a Spec control casing that I can only get a few hours out of, if it's wet, there's bubbles all over the place. I check pressure before every ride on all 3 of my tubeless bikes (and 2 tubeless kids bikes), I just thought that was the way it was.
Just ride it, and bring a small pump.
+ 1 more on the Truckerco stems.
Like also stated above, be very careful with the tire levers, it's easy to nick or even puncture the tape.
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
About this Discussion
33 Replies
18 Participants
Last post:
jimPacNW
Mountain Bike Reviews Forum
posts
16M
members
534K
Since
1990
A forum community dedicated to Mountain Bike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about bike parts, components, deals, performance, modifications, classifieds, trails, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Discussion Downhill - Freeride California - Norcal Shocks and Suspension Passion