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I9 Torch boost rear hub is slipping

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#21 ·
Schulze said:
Sucks to spend so much on a high end hub and have it break like this.
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Uh, yeah.

backinmysaddle said:
I posted a few days ago about my ratchet ring slipping, different brand of hub but same outcome. I extracted it with a tool and could see that the threads on the hub side were shredded but the ratchet ring, made of harder metal was fine. In that discussion thread, someone recommended green Loctite 680. Bought a bottle but haven't tried it yet. I'm moving back to DT Swiss 240s.

By the way, my slipping was very smooth, not clunking.
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People - typically heavy, powerful people- have toasted the DT Swiss 54T star ratchet by chipping teeth. Smaller teeth and more points of engagement leads to an interface that can't handle as much torque.

But this is not the ratchet and pawls. This is the inner hub coming apart, which I believe, DT does not do. There have been major, wide-spread issues with other hubs like Novatec and Stans. Maybe this issue with I9 is much more uncommon?
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
keen said:
I have spun a few drive rings and as I mentioned it was an easy diagnosis. When my first ring spun manufacture wanted evidence of slipping. I used a paint pen and marked the side of one ring tooth and the hub flange. Did a quick spin on a hill and sure enough the marks clock positions changed. Once the drive ring spind hub is toast.
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Thanks for the info. I think I read one of your posts in another thread where you said you marked the drive ring to test whether the drive ring was slipping.

Do you have another rear wheel you can install to make certain it is a hub issue?
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No, but I replaced the chain, the cassette, and the chainring, so all the parts in the drivetrain are brand new except the rear hub, cranks and derailleur; and I don't see how it can be a crank or derailleur problem.
 
#25 ·
happyriding said:
Thanks for the info. I think I read one of your posts in another thread where you said you marked the drive ring to test whether the drive ring was slipping.

No, but I replaced the chain, the cassette, and the chainring, so all the parts in the drivetrain are brand new except the rear hub, cranks and derailleur; and I don't see how it can be a crank or derailleur problem.
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I'd send the wheel to I9.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
To show how things can snowball when you are on a road trip: UPS overnight delivery was delayed due to a sorting error. Another day without a bike...

Lesson learned: always carry a spare rear hub as well as the correct spoke lengths to rebuild a wheel. I didn't have room for my Park truing stand, so I'm going to rebuild on the frame. Are there any portable truing stands that are worth a damn?
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Do Shimano XT hubs ever break? I don't understand why breakage like this is acceptable.
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Ha! I was just thinking about that. On a 40 spoke rear touring wheel that was built with a Shimano XT hub, I had some unsolved, slight slipping after 3,000 miles. My LBS replaced the chainrings and cassette, and it still slipped. A few years ago, I read something that made me suspect it was the hub.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
And for the coup de grace: I started to rebuild my rear wheel today, but when I removed the tire I found a big dent in the sidewall. I could straighten that easily enough--although a rippled sidewall would make truing the rim more difficult, but the dent extends into the bed of the rim. After examining the rim for a few minutes, I decided not to try to build a new wheel with a rim that I won't be able to true laterally or radially, so now I'm waiting for a new rim to be delivered on Tuesday, which will mean I will have been dealing with this problem for 14 days.

I guess I'll service my fork and seatpost while I'm waiting. I already did the shock.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
The drive ring has several pieces, and I made three pencil marks on the outside of the hub to line up with three of the drive ring edges then I reassembled the hub, and I pedaled my bike about 50 feet with moderate pressure on the pedals and my drivetrain slipped 3-4 times. Then I opened up the hub again, and the pencil marks still lined up with the drive ring edges, so the drive ring didn't slip.

I sent some pics of my rear hub to I9 and the preliminary diagnosis is cracks in the drive ring and damage to the drive ring teeth, so my hub needs a new drive ring. I'll mail my hub to I9 in a couple of days, and I'll know more in a week or so.

teeth1 by happyriding, on Flickr
pawls3 by happyriding, on Flickr
 
#35 ·
You made a whole thread on this when the drive ring is obviously cracked and the teeth are chipped or worn away. I mean, I can see it obviously in the pic, so in person it's even more obvious. This is just ridiculous.
 
#38 ·
Those are NOT cracks and it is NOT broken

You guys are apparently are not familiar with I-9 hubs or the pressed ring gear.

The marks that you think are cracks are not. I think they are are machining press or die marks, but they are not cracks.

Note this almost new I-9 Torch hub and you can clearly see the same die marks.
 
#39 ·
I'm guessing here, but...

Looking at another photo of Happyring's Freehub (from his Flickr), it appears, but I can't really determine that your pawls might be worn a bit.

My freehub photo isn't as good as Happyriding, but look at the pawls on mine compared to yours. Do my pawls appear slightly sharper?
 
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