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Detailed instructions on RIG EBB Adjustment?

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ncj01

· The Duuude, man...
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm putting a 17t on the rear of my RIG, but I have NO idea how to mess with that EBB...can anyone give me a "EBB for Dummies" step by step on how to adjust that thing? Tips on putting it back together/tightening, complete with if/when/how to grease/lock-tight, etc?

Mucho GrassyAss,
N
 
#2 ·
ncj01 said:
I'm putting a 17t on the rear of my RIG, but I have NO idea how to mess with that EBB...can anyone give me a "EBB for Dummies" step by step on how to adjust that thing? Tips on putting it back together/tightening, complete with if/when/how to grease/lock-tight, etc?

Mucho GrassyAss,
N
Click to expand...
Here's what I wrote:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=126285

Pull the EBB completely out of the shell and grease all contact surfaces lightly. Don't forget the sliding surface of the wedge.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Nat said:
Here's what I wrote:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=126285

Pull the EBB completely out of the shell and grease all contact surfaces lightly. Don't forget the sliding surface of the wedge.
Click to expand...
Ah, very cool, I didn't realize that it was that simple, or the part where it will push the wedge APART if you keep loosening it...very good...sounds like I'll be jammin' ...will try to get pic's up as soon as I can...lets just say it's budget bling, but bling none-the-less...purple surly on otherwise blacked-out RIG...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bump on the info you linked:

1) LOOSEN BOLT: Use a 5mm Allen wrench to turn bolt counterclockwise. It will loosen but then KEEP TURNING counterclockwise until it gets tight again. A few more rotations and the bolt will push the expanding wedge loose.

2) ROTATE EBB: Insert a 5mm Allen wrench into one of the two hex-shaped holes adjacent to the bolt. Rotate EBB until chain is adequately tight.

3) TIGHTEN BOLT: Tighten bolt adequately. It usually takes me a few tries to get it just right, because the EBB tends to creep towards the drive side as I tighten. The chain also usually ends up tighter than it was before tightening. Trial and error process.

You should not need any tool other than the 5mm hex wrench. Don't mess with the ring around the bolt that looks like the backside of a chainring bolt.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Nat said:
Hammers and cussing were involved.
Click to expand...
What? I thought that was the critical step in all bike mantinence, I know it comes in handy for me during little jobs like:
1) oiling the chain
2) adjusting air pressure
3) removing and installing wheels into the dropouts
 
#6 ·
To try and eliminate the 'trial and error' aspect NAt describes as much as possible I find it's best to use two 5mm allen keys, one in the hex hole and one tightening the bolt so that the EBB doesn't shift around too much while tightening.

Sam
 
#7 ·
Kolo said:
To try and eliminate the 'trial and error' aspect NAt describes as much as possible I find it's best to use two 5mm allen keys, one in the hex hole and one tightening the bolt so that the EBB doesn't shift around too much while tightening.

Sam
Click to expand...
Good idea. Someone else suggested using a C-clamp on the shell to prevent the EBB from drifting laterally when you tighten the bolt. This method would necessitate the EBB be centered in its shell though, meaning you'd have to fine tune your chainline some other way. I don't think I've ever seen a C-clamp slender enough to squeeze in between the chainring and the BB though, but it might exist..
 
#9 ·
couple of things.

Being a seasoned pro at this ebb thing I've found that a yellow spanner wrench works perfect for the rotation adjustment. After loosening the 5mm "wedge" bolt stick the spanner prongs in the two holes and rotate. If your ebb gets stuck like mine go to sears and buy a center punch and hammer for the loosening process. Yes, mine is excessively lubricated or as my fellow employee pete says, "massively slathered." I change ratios once every two weeks and have to resort to the center punch hammer method everytime.
 
#10 ·
creepyfriendly said:
Being a seasoned pro at this ebb thing I've found that a yellow spanner wrench works perfect for the rotation adjustment. After loosening the 5mm "wedge" bolt stick the spanner prongs in the two holes and rotate. If your ebb gets stuck like mine go to sears and buy a center punch and hammer for the loosening process. Yes, mine is excessively lubricated or as my fellow employee pete says, "massively slathered." I change ratios once every two weeks and have to resort to the center punch hammer method everytime.
Click to expand...
Wow, I wonder why your EBB gets seized up so badly even when you move it every other week?

Is your center punch dimpling the surface of the EBB pretty badly?

Do you find using the spanner to be easier than using a 5mm allen wrench?
 
#11 ·
Pictures to those who may want to see

ncj01 said:
...can anyone give me a "EBB for Dummies" step by step on how to adjust that thing? Tips on putting it back together/tightening, complete with if/when/how to grease/lock-tight, etc?
Mucho GrassyAss,
N
Click to expand...
This post helped me go through the process of pulling and regreasing my Rig EBB to hopefully kill the obnoxious creeking.
Figured I'd revive the thread and show some pics during the process in case anyone needs 'em. I'm a "show me" kinda mechanic and need more than verbal/typed destructions to to feel comfortable doing just about anything new. .
I the EBB was very easy to pull and tinker with. I had more issues with not having the right crank puller. Quick trip to LBS with bike and they got me the right tool, did the pulling and more importantly showed me how to do a couple things so I came outta there with some knowledge too.
Hopefully these pics help some of ya.
Tools used: 5mm for EBB. 8mm and crank puller tools for cranks. Test ride soon to see if this process did the trick.

Pic 1: EBB from non drive side
Pic 2: Top view, wedge coming out
Pic 3: Driveside, crank off. Wedge mostly loose and bottom bracket sliding out.
Pic 4: EBB extracted. I left one crank arm on. A little bit o laziness.
Pic 5: The wedge and nut
 

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