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Shimano XT M8000 High/low adjustment?

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Lovespicyfood

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am having an issue adjusting this rear derailleur. I can adjust the high no problem, got it adjusted to just outside of the centerline per the instructions. Having an issue with the LOW adjustment. I need to adjust in towards the spokes but the adjustment screw isn’t even touching. The only adjustment is away from spokes if I adjust the screw in making contact.

What am I missing here?!? I did adjust the derailleur hangar; I have the Park tool for this and it was off...

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
#2 ·
It seems you have too much cable tension.
Either screw in the adjust at the shifter and see if it's fixed, or
1) shift to the lowest sprocket.
2) loose the cable clamp.
3) completely screw in the adjuster at the shifter, then back a couple of turns.
4) set the high and low limits of the derailleur
5) pull the cable at the derailleur, and stretch it by hand, just make sure it's not loose, you don't need to stretch it like your life depends on it :).
6) tight the cable clamp.
7) adjust your gears.
8) go for a ride.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks for replying! I did release the tension in the cable by screwing in the barrel adjuster at the shifter and shifting into the high gear. I then loosened the cable at the derailleur and retightened it. I then adjusted the high position at the rear derailleur. The issue is I can’t seem to adjust the low.

Dumb question but I am doing this with the chain off the bike. Is that correct?

I must be doing something wrong here...
 
#4 ·
You only need the chain to adjust the B-SCREW, both low and high limit usually are adjusted without the chain.
If you can't shift to the biggest sprocket try to unscrew the barrel adjuster to increase the tension on the cable.
 
#5 ·
Lovespicyfood said:
I need to adjust in towards the spokes but the adjustment screw isn't even touching. The only adjustment is away from spokes if I adjust the screw in making contact.

What am I missing here?!?
Click to expand...
The low limit screw won't contact the stop or move the derailleur until you move it either with the cable or by pushing it towards the spokes. The limit screws should be adjusted with the chain on. The Park Tool website has a good step by step tutorial on derailleur adjustments.
 
#6 ·
Leave the chain on and remove the cable from the derailleur. Set the high limit, move the derailleur by hand to the biggest cog and set the low. Once you get them set re-install the cable and set b-screw & tension. Hope that helps.
 
#8 ·
When I install a derailleur, particularly a new one where the limit screws will be way off, I attach it to the hanger, adjust the high limit, then push and hold the derailleur against the low limit screw and adjust that. I attach cable and install the chain. The cable tension, limit screws and B screw are fine tuned after that.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Hey All,

So I setup the high low w/ the chain off. Put the chain on and adjusted the cable tension. I had to tweak the high low settings a bit...did this based off the sound of the drivetrain.

However, at the low setting, if I back pedal, the chain moves off the biggest sprocket and goes down 2-3 gears. WTH?

I checked the chain for any tight links and it seems fine.

Any suggestions?

I rode the bike and up my cul de sac and under tension, everything seemed to be okay...but I still can't back pedal... :(
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Hmmm...seems like it's just an issue, eh?

"I found that backpedaling with the chain in the largest, 42 tooth sprocket causes it to jump down two or three gears, an occurrence that's most noticeable when adjusting the shifting with the bike in a stand. Because it takes more than a half revolution of the cranks for this to occur, I didn't notice it out on the trail (I rarely find myself backpedaling more than that, especially in the easiest gear), but since everyone has different riding styles, it's worth a mention."

It is a 2x11 setup....
 
#11 ·
Lovespicyfood said:
...However, at the low setting, if I back pedal, the chain moves off the biggest sprocket and goes down 2-3 gears...(
Click to expand...
Basically, that's normal. Pedaling forward, the derailleur guides the chain onto each cog. Pedaling backward, there's nothing to guide the chain onto a cog. Cogs have short teeth designed to make shifting quick and easy. The flip side is they're bad at chain retention. Another effect is that the top run of the chain gets pretty slack when backpedaling due to the friction in the freehub and jockey wheels. This is also bad for chain retention.

One thing I found that reduces this slightly is using a non-boost offset chainring on a boost bike. This moves the chain line in which favors the lower cogs, but it ain't much...3mm. Wolf Tooth has a white paper that describes this. If doing this, check that the chainring will clear the chain stay and the chain will clear the tire.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Thank you for this info! I guess I never realized this...this bike has a lower bottom bracket and I have hit rocks with the cranks at times so I am careful in technical situations. II have back pedaled some times in the lowest gear and experienced this gear slipping which confused me. Being cognizant of this will be helpful to minimize issues going forward.
 
#13 ·
Assuming you're running M8000 for the cassette as well? I've got the 11-46 version and short cage derailleur on my Camber and have yet to run into any of the dreaded backpedal issues. As suggested above though, changing the chainline could help. Lotta variables between bikes out there so it's often a game of trial and error.
 
#15 ·
Thoreau said:
Assuming you're running M8000 for the cassette as well? I've got the 11-46 version and short cage derailleur on my Camber and have yet to run into any of the dreaded backpedal issues. As suggested above though, changing the chainline could help. Lotta variables between bikes out there so it's often a game of trial and error.
Click to expand...
OP's running 2x so a short cage isn't really a good option. Anyway, I think it's more about chainline and/or tweaking the shifting to minimize it if it's even a real concern out on the trail.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Image
Hi guys, I'm new to this forum. Hope to get some help.

I've just installed a 1x11 drivetrain. Shimano Xt m8000 using a hg 11-46t shimano cassette with a absolute black oval 32t chain ring with hollowtech bb.
Bike is vitus nucleus 2020 Altus 27vr.

Installed the drive train excited. But when adjusting it just doesn't feel right. 3 biggest cogs the chain doesn't sit in the teeth and will then snap in place. Also low limit screw has max out (meaning the screw doesn't even touch the derailleur anymore and the pulley can go inwards towards the spoke any further) and still my pulley is not align with the biggest cog. So it's always struggling to go into the lowest gear.

What can I do? Can I use a spacer to bring out the cassette?
I've checked, kmc x11 chain.., words facing out. I'll take some pic later. But does anyone have this problem? Where low limit screw all the way out and still can't reach/align with the biggest cog?

Millions of thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Hi guys, I’m new to this forum. Hope to get some help.

I’ve just installed a 1x11 drivetrain. Shimano Xt m8000 using a hg 11-46t shimano cassette with a absolute black oval 32t chain ring with hollowtech bb.
Bike is vitus nucleus 2020 Altus 27vr.

Installed the drive train excited. But when adjusting it just doesn’t feel right. 3 biggest cogs the chain doesn’t sit in the teeth and will then snap in place. Also low limit screw has max out (meaning the screw doesn’t even touch the derailleur anymore and the pulley can go inwards towards the spoke any further) and still my pulley is not align with the biggest cog. So it’s always struggling to go into the lowest gear.

What can I do? Can I use a spacer to bring out the cassette?
I’ve checked, kmc x11 chain.., words facing out. I’ll take some pic later. But does anyone have this problem? Where low limit screw all the way out and still can’t reach/align with the biggest cog?

Millions of thanks in advance.
 
#20 ·
Aglo said:
Why are you using a mech hanger extension? The RD-M8000 don't need one to work with a 11-46 cassette.
Click to expand...
I use it cause... if I don't then my b-screw will be the one maxing out and also, if I don't use the extender, my gear change is very very stiff... it's like double the toughness if I use one. Literally have to use a lot of strength to push the shifter.

wish I don't have to use it. Cause that would give my low limit screw enough to reach the last cog

not sure if I did anything wrong...pleas help

edit: when I don't use the extender, my derailleur is tilted so much it's like almost 90 degree and the pulley become too far behind the cog.
 
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