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DVO diamond

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#822 ·
If anyone knows where to get a 22mm thin walled socket, I'm all ears. I don't have space for a grinder otherwise I would get one and grind a few home Depot $2 ones down for others.

A little update after riding the fork for a few months now:

I was going to do the shim stack mod, but I've had really good luck running slightly lower than recommended pressure from the weight/pressure chart. I'm running around 105-110, and I weight around 185. I decided to lower pressure to adjust bottom out resistance like the DVO guys talk about, which is how you treat these forks because of the lack of token system and the negative spring adjuster. Turns out my bottom out resistance/sag pressure needed is lower than their charts. When you hear those guys talk about adjusting the pressure, they say to do it for your bottom out and sag. I'd be curious what pressure people would be running if we took that tip, and never saw the recommended pressure chart...makes me think their chart is way off maybe?

Fork is working insanely smooth. From SoCal techy chunky stuff to bike park jumps. I'm running no HSC (so far), 2 LSC for decends, 6 for climbs, max OTT, and I'm not sure about rebond, but it's much less (faster) than their recommended starting points. I found that this fork isn't violent or kicky like my fox was when the rebound is quicker so you can get away with faster.

I rarely bottom out or use more than 80% travel, usually only on small trail hucks and jumps into really chunky stuff on the landings. When I do, I don't notice or feel it, which tells me running this slightly lower pressure is working for me. I just notice the o ring at the end of the run or section of trail.

Hope that helps!!
 
#823 ·
krau said:
If anyone knows where to get a 22mm thin walled socket, I'm all ears. I don't have space for a grinder otherwise I would get one and grind a few home Depot $2 ones down for others.

A little update after riding the fork for a few months now:

I was going to do the shim stack mod, but I've had really good luck running slightly lower than recommended pressure from the weight/pressure chart. I'm running around 105-110, and I weight around 185. I decided to lower pressure to adjust bottom out resistance like the DVO guys talk about, which is how you treat these forks because of the lack of token system and the negative spring adjuster. Turns out my bottom out resistance/sag pressure needed is lower than their charts. When you hear those guys talk about adjusting the pressure, they say to do it for your bottom out and sag. I'd be curious what pressure people would be running if we took that tip, and never saw the recommended pressure chart...makes me think their chart is way off maybe?

Fork is working insanely smooth. From SoCal techy chunky stuff to bike park jumps. I'm running no HSC (so far), 2 LSC for decends, 6 for climbs, max OTT, and I'm not sure about rebond, but it's much less (faster) than their recommended starting points. I found that this fork isn't violent or kicky like my fox was when the rebound is quicker so you can get away with faster.

I rarely bottom out or use more than 80% travel, usually only on small trail hucks and jumps into really chunky stuff on the landings. When I do, I don't notice or feel it, which tells me running this slightly lower pressure is working for me. I just notice the o ring at the end of the run or section of trail.

Hope that helps!!
Click to expand...
I am about the same weight and ride here in SoCal as well. El Prieto and the occasional trip to skypark. I run 118PSI now with the shimmstack mod and an angleset that slacked it out a bit. I can't imagine it getting any better. Similar settings as you. No HSC and adjust LSC based on terrain. Nearly all OTT and Rebound is also pretty fast.

I found that lower pressure made it too divey and too slow a natural frequency. Now with 118 it suooorts corners better and the shim stack mod makes it use travel as I would hope for.
 
#824 ·
Yeah I plan to up it a bit closer to 120 next and see how it behaves. I'm happy with how it soaks up the chunk, so I'll deal with a little more dive. It stays mid travel in the corners so far which is fine. I don't really notice it that much to be honest. Not sure what El Prieto is, but I rode the Luge last night and it was great in the corners. Skypark is another story, I turn up the LSC, and put more air in. Their trails are so insanely smooth up there and it's like a giant groomed pumptrack hahaha! Say hi if you see me up there, I'm on a blue patrol carbon and I'm there quite often :)
 
#825 ·
krau said:
Not sure what El Prieto is, but I rode the Luge last night and it was great in the corners. Skypark is another story, I turn up the LSC, and put more air in. Their trails are so insanely smooth up there and it's like a giant groomed pumptrack hahaha! Say hi if you see me up there, I'm on a blue patrol carbon and I'm there quite often :)
Click to expand...
El Prieto is by JPL/Rose bowl in the Mount Wilson area. It's a great ~1 hour loop or a great last downhill if you shuttle Mount Wilson. Lots of switchbacks and shaded dirt trail that is a bit more East Coast than most around here. It's one that DVO uses to tune their stuff.
 
#826 ·
Hey all,

I recently sent my Diamond to DVO for some warranty work. While they had it apart I asked if it would be possible to tune it to offer a bit more traction and plushness in the beginning of the stroke. They suggested doing a piston flip, and I decided to try it. After reading some replies here though, it sounds like a re-shim would have been a better idea.

Regardless, for those who flipped their damper pistons, what adjustments did you have to make to your setup? From what I understand, it increases the usable range on the HSC/LSC adjusters and also affects rebound dampening, though feel free to correct me if that's not quite right.

Thanks.
 
#827 ·
Phoenix864 said:
They suggested doing a piston flip
Click to expand...
Interesting that they've suggested the piston flip. It seems that before they weren't reccomending it, do they changed their mind?

Phoenix864 said:
Regardless, for those who flipped their damper pistons, what adjustments did you have to make to your setup? From what I understand, it increases the usable range on the HSC/LSC adjusters and also affects rebound dampening, though feel free to correct me if that's not quite right.
Click to expand...
May I ask what's your weight?
I'm 61kg and as I wrote in post #817, the fork seems nice even with all controls open.
I've put 5 psi more as before I was trying to compensate too much damping with less air pressure.
I've ridden it only two times, nothing too challenging, so I'll need more rides to get to the right settings.
I think I'll end in cranking some rebound (but *less* than before the mod), and also some HSC (I've got 29 clicks to use...).
 
#829 ·
bostik said:
Interesting that they've suggested the piston flip. It seems that before they weren't reccomending it, do they changed their mind?
Click to expand...
It may be based on weight. With higher air pressure (spring rate) the rebound speeds increase at a given setting. I believe Ronnie said the rebound circuit could choke with just the piston flip. It seems reasonable with my (dangerously limited) understanding of how these work that the issues with just a piston flip would be exacerbated with higher air pressures.

They do recommend it, but only with/after trying the shim stack mod first. So its not a "don't" but more of a "not your best first step".
 
#830 ·
I weigh in the mid 150s with no gear, about 162-168lb with gear. I found the fork with the stock piston setup to be rather stiff, even when running air pressure on the low side and OTT on the high side of what DVO recommended for my weight.

I called DVO up today and asked what the piston flip does to the dampening. As I understand it, they said that it allows oil to pass through the shim stack faster, allowing the HSC to be utilized sooner. The interesting thing is that the person I spoke with said that the flip should only affect HSC. I find this rather unusual as I would think less LSC, not HSC, would make the fork plusher in the beginning of its travel.

As far as choking the rebound, would that come from the extra oil coming through after the flip? Seems a little counter intuitive, but definitely possible.

The other possibility to this whole issue is that when DVO talked to me about the piston flip they also did the shim stack mod with it, as that seems to have been their recommendation in the past. I would find it rather unusual if they went against their own past advice for my rather normal case.
 
#831 ·
I got a Diamond 2017 150mm Boost 29er (from Chainreactioncycles) about a month ago and have ridden it about 10 times since. Straight out of the box the OTT was knocking, but has since quieted down.

Now, though, there is some pretty heavy bushing play. Grap the front brake and wiggle the bike -> clunky sound and movement between the sliders and lowers. Grap the crown and the arch on the lowers and wiggle-> clunky sound and movement. Same for full and 50% extension. I just issued a warranty request to CRC, we'll see how that plays out.

It was a great fork though, shame about this issue. At my weight (95kg ready to ride) the damping adjustment range is spot on, at least for my riding style.
 
#832 ·
Toni L said:
I got a Diamond 2017 150mm Boost 29er (from Chainreactioncycles) about a month ago and have ridden it about 10 times since. Straight out of the box the OTT was knocking, but has since quieted down.

Now, though, there is some pretty heavy bushing play. Grap the front brake and wiggle the bike -> clunky sound and movement between the sliders and lowers. Grap the crown and the arch on the lowers and wiggle-> clunky sound and movement. Same for full and 50% extension. I just issued a warranty request to CRC, we'll see how that plays out.

It was a great fork though, shame about this issue. At my weight (95kg ready to ride) the damping adjustment range is spot on, at least for my riding style.
Click to expand...
Yep - every pair I've had were the same straight out of the box. Deal straight with the importers and it will get fixed quicker - good luck if your in the uk as the importers are crap and carry zero spares. I waited 6 weeks for a set of lowers and the replacement set were worse than the first pair to be then told another 6 weeks wait. This is the main reason I sold up and went back to fox
 
#833 ·
I bought a set of DVOs to then have travel reduced and service guy showed me the cracked spring guide for the neg spring OTT.
Ronnie kindly sent me one out asap from USA of course.
This might explain the clunk noise as the guide is like heatwrap to a Fox coil springed fork to keep it from rubbing away the inner of stantion tube.

I’ve still yet to get riding on mine due to waiting 3 months on a boost adaptor kit.

If I had to deal with crc regarding warranty, I would personally be talking to my cc co to reverse the payment if any foul play on crc’s part as crc are fairly aweful to deal with as I found out the other day.
They give it all that over phone then try to sell you something that should have come with the item. They had a chance to resolve a simple issue so in the end I called him a dumb irish **** and that I shall discuss directly with DVO themselves.

May seem harsh language but at that time I rang, I were being shifted from pillar to post via a couple of staff. Then fobbed off repeatedly so BAM! I’d swing for that potato stealing gypo if it weren’t for the fact he aint worth diddly ****. That and fact I’d have to travel to a shithole of a place to give him a slap.

I really sincerely hope crc reads thus and learns nect time to deal appropriately in CS as it lacked every drop of it.

Anyway I cannot wait much longer to ride the green wave of comfort. :-D
 
#834 ·
Any advice on how to unthread the Black ring on the bottom of the air cartridge on the Diamond Boost?
I was going to do the air side service but there is no way to loosen it, It seems stuck...

Inviato dal mio PULP 4G utilizzando Tapatalk
 
#835 ·
davideb87 said:
Any advice on how to unthread the Black ring on the bottom of the air cartridge on the Diamond Boost?
I was going to do the air side service but there is no way to loosen it, It seems stuck...

Inviato dal mio PULP 4G utilizzando Tapatalk
Click to expand...
You need to hold the green inner part with a pair of snapring pliers while loosening the black lock ring. If not the whole assembly turns in place. On DVO's Youtube video Ronnie makes it look like it should just break free and come off but it doesn't. I had to do this for a travel change on a friends fork. The non boost version is different. You may also need to heat that ring to break it free it might have thread lock on it. I can't recall.
 
#836 ·
Rngspnr said:
You need to hold the green inner part with a pair of snapring pliers while loosening the black lock ring. If not the whole assembly turns in place. On DVO's Youtube video Ronnie makes it look like it should just break free and come off but it doesn't. I had to do this for a travel change on a friends fork. The non boost version is different. You may also need to heat that ring to break it free it might have thread lock on it. I can't recall.
Click to expand...
Much appreciated, thanks.
Yeah i was working following that video...

Inviato dal mio PULP 4G utilizzando Tapatalk
 
#840 ·
No, I use a vice opened enough to grab the large black nut then spin the large upaper part of the cartridge. If you clean the cartridge with alcohol you can hrab it bare handed. There is no need for pliers or snap ring pliers.

That nut is just there to stabilize the green cap. The snap ring inside the cartridge is what hold the green cap.
 
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