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haltbro

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
i currently have guide RS brakes on my bike with about 2 years of use and im planning on upgrading to the code rsc brakes.

do i need to replace the hydraulic hose cables? the current cables are in good condition.

whats the easiest way to remove the dot fluid from the brake system? do i connect the bleeding edge tool to the caliper and just suck out all the dot fluid? i'll be using brand new dot fluid during the installation process.

does this process seem correct?
  1. connect bleeding edge tool to caliper
  2. suck out all the dot fluid
  3. remove caliper from bike
  4. remove brake lever
  5. do the same with the rear brake
  6. start the installation of codes

am i doing this correctly?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Does your code not come wth hose?

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im assuming they do. i just wanted to avoid all the internal cable routing. i'll probably use new housing since it makes sense.

i've watched videos and read on how to attach the housing to the lever, with the barb and what not.

but how do i go about attaching the caliper to the housing?
 
You should get a barb and olive to trim down the housing on the lever side, the caliper side is fixed so you'll just send the housing up the frame from caliper up to the lever.

If you want to avoid all that I'd just detach the caliper and lever and have a catch basin for any spills.


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Discussion starter · #5 ·
You should get a barb and olive to trim down the housing on the lever side, the caliper side is fixed so you'll just send the housing up the frame from caliper up to the lever.

If you want to avoid all that I'd just detach the caliper and lever and have a catch basin for any spills.

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ok so when i get the codes, i just detach the lever, route the hose through the frame starting at the rear, then do the normal barb/olive stuff, then bleed like normal?

i didn't know the housing and caliper were fixed. thanks for the info
 
well the housing and the caliper is not fixed but the little end "cap" on the housing for the caliper side is fixed.

Otherwise you are correct for the routing.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
well the housing and the caliper is not fixed but the little end "cap" on the housing for the caliper side is fixed.

Otherwise you are correct for the routing.
sorry for the stupid questions. this is my first time installing hydraulic brakes.

yeah the housing and caliper are joined by banjo. hopefully it's not too hard to install.
 
Banjo! Had major brain fart. Haha anyways, this problem wasn't a problem until internal cable routing for brakes became a thing. Ok I'm done ranting...


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Discussion starter · #9 ·
so i think this is what im going to do. feel free to spot check me.

frame and old rear brake prep:
1) open bleeding edge port on caliper and attach syringe to suck out all of the current dot fluid to avoid leaking everywhere
2) unfasten the banjo from the caliper
3) remove the banjo or cut it off

new rear brake prep:
4) open bleeding edge port on caliper and attach syringe to suck out all of the NEW dot fluid to avoid leaking everywhere
5) disconnect the hose from the lever
6) remove stealth-a-majig compression nut, olive, and barb
7) using a reverb connector or the park tool barbs, connect the old caliper hose end to the new lever hose and pull through the frame
8) rejoice! and hope i didn't get dot fluid everywhere
9) attach lever to bar
10) attach caliper to rear frame
11) install stealth-a-majig compression nut, olive, and barb on new raw hose
12) install hose into lever
13) bleed system like normal

am i missing anything?
 
Sram makes a little red coupler that has tapered oppositely threaded ends that will screw into the inside and joint two hoses so that you can use the existing hose to guide a new hose through the frame.

You can kinda do the same thing in stages with Park Took internal routing kit, but for hoses, the sram thingy works great.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Sram makes a little red coupler that has tapered oppositely threaded ends that will screw into the inside and joint two hoses so that you can use the existing hose to guide a new hose through the frame.

You can kinda do the same thing in stages with Park Took internal routing kit, but for hoses, the sram thingy works great.
yeah i got one for step #7. it's a called a reverb connector i think
 
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