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Hope Tech E4 brakes experience

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#61 ·
R_Pierce said:
on the bike (but I remove the rear caliper and let it hang so that the bleeder is the highest point)

I tried to contact Hope USA, and there answer was "call CRC and have them send you another set" Very helpful.
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Yes- "I'm just an independent distributor, just like CRC."

-Phil

In other words, there is no such thing as Hope Tech USA any longer. Caveat Emptor.

I have 10 year old Mono Minis that still work. Bled them maybe 5 times total.

1 year old X2 pistons sticking badly after some heavy use in the Rockies bikepacking. Tried all my tricks, all the above, and, yes, I know how to bleed Hopes.

Also have recent E4s that are great. Likely just that QC is very inconsistent at Hope these days. They are using expensive UK labor so not shocking. Will look to other MFGs in the future.
 
#62 ·
A_street said:
Unfortunately warranty replacement are easier resolved through the dealer who sold you the brakes. Sucks that it's crc cause you probably mail ordered them.
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Tough to buy Hopes at LBS- there are like 20 shops local for me and NONE of them stock Hope and know them well. Shouldn't matter if I order from CA or UK: Good companies stand behind product, period.
 
#63 ·
That is the only thing I don't like about the hopes.... Almost impossible to walk into a shop and buy a set of pads....

I always keep multiple sets in the parts bin, especially if I have a trip....
 
#67 ·
terrible said:
No one asked if the OP was using hope rotors either? If he/she was using shimano or avid rotors that can cause issues too. Hope rotors are a little thicker remember.
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They used to be, but not no more they ain't - Hope have craftily changed the spec and kept it quiet. Standard Hope rotors used to be 2 mm thick, and their Lightweight models were 1.8 mm. Now they've dropped the Lightweight model and the standard rotor is 1.8 mm. I bought some Hope rotors in Dec 2016 just because they were thicker and rode them around for a year or so before I finally got around to actually measuring the things... and they came in at 1.82 mm*. Hope V4 rotors are about 3 mm, but they're specials for the V4 caliper.

I can see why Hope would want to make their rotors more compatible with other manufacturer's calipers, but the swines kept that one quiet and there are still shops out there selling Hope rotors listed as 2 mm; maybe some of these are genuine NOS but the chances are most of them are the new 1.8 mm design and the vendors are unaware of the change.

* Measured with nice Mitotoyu calipers still in calibration, and measured across the arm to eliminate track wear.
 
#69 ·
jncarpenter said:
Important to note when bleeding/filling hope brakes is to have the BP adjuster fully out, that way you get maximum fluid volume/ BP adjustment.
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That's a very good tip. Cheers, that's getting incorporated into my bleed procedure.

terrible said:
Wow that's a bummer! I liked the idea for heat disipaction purposes.
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Yeah, that's the reason I bought Hope rotors in the first place. If it's any consolation, for the past couple of years I've been confidently telling people "of course, Hope rotors are two millimetres thick, dontchaknow". I measured some Shimano Ice Techs at the same time and they came in at 1.75 mm, so the Hopes are a gnat's thicker than those I s'pose.
 
#70 ·
i`m feed up with e4 calipers. just cound not adjust them not to rub. took it to service to change seals - maybe they degraded after 1/5 years

have anyone compared power of e4 vs x2 caliper?

looking to change calipers, and if anyone interested (ive got e4 black fully serviced) and have x2\v2 calipers - pm me
 
#71 ·
amer_ua said:
i`m feed up with e4 calipers. just cound not adjust them not to rub. took it to service to change seals - maybe they degraded after 1/5 years

have anyone compared power of e4 vs x2 caliper?

looking to change calipers, and if anyone interested (ive got e4 black fully serviced) and have x2\v2 calipers - pm me
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Did you check that the rotors are straight? And did you check your caliper mounts? I have absolutely no problem adjusting mine after i had the rear caliper Mount straightned.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#74 ·
amer_ua said:
rotors are fine and setup are fine. now i installed breakes from another bike (race evo x2) and everything works great

as i found its nowrmal situation for 4pot calipers - they need more attention =(
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Hu. My E4s have never been touched other than replacing the pads in 5 years, and being swapped between two bikes.
 
#76 ·
Strange things happening with my E4 caliper. Note that a torque wrench(Park ATD 1.2) was used to secure the bolt. Sent Hope USA an email with pics after calling and talking to a real human being! Hopefully they get me back on the trail.
 
#77 ·
ianick said:
Strange things happening with my E4 caliper. Note that a torque wrench(Park ATD 1.2) was used to secure the bolt. Sent Hope USA an email with pics after calling and talking to a real human being! Hopefully they get me back on the trail.

View attachment 1269061
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Why would you torque that pad retainer bolt? It's effectively a hangar for the pads so there's no advantage in torquing it on; in fact the disadvantage is exactly what happened- cracked the alloy.
 
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#78 ·
Ouch. No reason to do anything more than snug that bolt. The clip pin in the back keeps it secure.

What torque did you torque it to anyway?? There is no spec on it since its not meant to be torqued.
 
#79 ·
You're right, there is no torque on the bolt. I do use the torque wrench when installing the brake, but not on that particular bolt.

Hope was good to me and sent a complete replacement caliper. They asked for the date stamp off the brakes and when/where it was purchased. Easy to deal with and I got a response quickly every time. Excellent customer service!
 
#80 ·
I wanted to add my recent bleeding experience in case it helps someone else.

I had to rebuild my rear caliper due to stuck pistons and had some issue bleeding it when I put it back on the bike.

The first try, I bleed and bleed but they were still squishy.

2nd try, I back filled each piston as I installed them to get as much fluid in the caliper as possible before connecting the brake line.
I then used a brake syringe I had left over from my old brake to pull air/fluid from the caliper bleed port, while cycling the pistons out with the lever, and in with the syringe/ hand pressing.
This method has gotten all the air out and resulted in a strong lever.

Hope that helps someone else.
 
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